http://www.rc-race-and-drift-japan.c...oducts_id=2207

I got em from this place, change the currency to US dollars, and pay thru paypal. Arrived in about 2 weeks or so.

Krom.

try www.driftspeed.com

Katsumi stocks an abundance of Yokomo parts.. He is located in CA, so no waiting weeks on end + heavy shipping cost if it is in stock

edit:

http://www.driftspeed.com/index.php?...sort=2a&page=3

does anyone have a chart containing information for the big bore spring rate comparison between manufactures? maybe even with normal non BB springs?

i run the traxxas collars and have no issues with them,also with the #2 pistons i was told you won't really notice a difference unless you got the tapered pistons since the ae's are already flat.do yourself a favor and save the 25$ and get the avid rack,thats what i would do

This may be a dumb question but does the ballast weight just sit in between tranny and battery tray holder?

+1 i dont have the ghea collars but i do have the traxxas ones that cost 5 dollars..they been working just fine & i didnt find it hard to get my adjustments made. I didnt think the avid rack would change the feel of my buggy and boy did it make it RESPONSIVE..Took alot of the slop out of the steering and also looks bitchin..

yep, positioned correctly it barely moves at all. It's not going anywhere.

Kevin

Does anyone have a decent gearing/timing setup for duo3/ lrp sxx ss v2/13.5?

Love my 4.1 Worlds, hate the way my front wheels are held on. I've spit two screws in heats and then when I gorilla them on I strip them and have to dremmel them out.
Can anyone direct me to about where on this thread the parts are listed to convert to hexs? I've run through the search function and I get a bunch of threads for cars being sold but none with part numbers. Any input is appreciated!
Kevin

FOUND IT!!! THANKS ANYWAYS!! Just gonna paste in case anyone else is interested!
No crush tube is used, due to the C clip used as the bearing stop

Items to do the hex conversion:
ASC9880 - Team Associated Hex Steering Block Set
ASC9881 - Team Associated Hex Front Axle Set
ASC3977 - 3/16 x 3/8 normal wheel bearings (4 pcs)
ASC6943 - 8/32 wheel nuts (I like the JCI2076 or JCI2075)

12mm hex adapters
PRO6077-00 and PRO6076-00 or JCI2081 and JCI2091 or ASC7497 (plastic)

Hex front wheels
PRO2735-02, PRO2734-04 or ASC9690, ASC9691

Hex rear wheels
PRO2736-02, PRO2736-04 or TLR7100, TLR7101

I didnt list JConcepts wheels as they are not current in stock at Amain and I haven't personally messed with the Kyosho wheels... but they should fit.

You do not need 3977 ball bearings. These are the standard bearings in your kit.

i also have the desire to go to hexs as they are trick lookin and will save removal of wheel bearings in the front wheels.i see it making more economial scense in t4 cause the wheels are the same front to rear once u convert to hexes. You mentioned your b4 "spit" two screws i am gonna assume u mean they came loose..I am surprised cause i run a b4.1ft and i have never had this issue..i thought i would when i first got into buggy but after almost 6 months of raing 1-2 times a week it hasnt ever had a front wheel screw come loose and i havent used any thread locking stuff.When you tightnen it doen does it make that little "click" when it bottoms out?..and u said u are stripping the bolts when ur tryin to remove them? are u sure ur not accidentaly using a metric allen key or a cheaper one that is striping easily..im not tryin to come off as a smart ass as i may learn something here and save a d.n.f. in a important race..i only race indoor and i have run into where clay or pvc has gotten into the hex part of front axel nuts and made me "almost " strip them out cause i could get the hex driver to sit flush and get a good "bite"...again not tryin to suggest stoopid things if thats not what it is,just wondered cause i havent seen this happening much on any of my competitors b4.1 ..i do see 22 front wheels ghost riding around tho =]

No worries, your not coming off any way. I respect your reasoning. Yea I meant two came loose. I'm pretty certain i was using the right hex driver as I used it all through the build and the size is marked on the handle. Now the condition of the tip could be suspect for a couple reasons 1 it is old and two it's a Losi Factory tool. Never heard any click when installing, didnt think to listen. Since those incidents I have beacked off a bit on how tight I go and it hasn't happened so who knows, maybe over-tightening is bad in this case. At any rate the conversion is relatively cheap so I will go that route.

Kevin

To tell you the truth guys im not really that impressed with the ghea collars.I originally had the traxxas and they work fine.As far as the ghea collars the spring doesnt really sit right on them.It shifts off to the side of the collar.For those of you that have the traxxas and are wondering if you have to have the ghea collars its not a big deal youll just end up paying more money for the gheas.

Leadfinger the axle part #7496 I believe is for the buggy the other one is for the sc10

The Ghea's were not made for one spring only...that's why some springs will shift a blink. No big deal though IMO, as they do not shift enough to matter anyways. They are going to become absolute soon enough as well.