SC10 4x4 Thread
http://teamassociated.com/parts/details/91174/
Tech Regular
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Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 447
From: Chicago
Maybe I am missing something but isn't the SC4X also a 550 motor like your Novak 550?
I think the rotor on Tekin is 12.5mm and the rotor on the stock Ballistic 550 is 12.3mm?
May see more torque with the Tekin. Could be more heat resistant too since its thicker, though on these SC104x4s may be a non-issue.
I liked mine but the 540 4 pole Tekin is definitely more powerful.
I think the rotor on Tekin is 12.5mm and the rotor on the stock Ballistic 550 is 12.3mm?
May see more torque with the Tekin. Could be more heat resistant too since its thicker, though on these SC104x4s may be a non-issue.
I liked mine but the 540 4 pole Tekin is definitely more powerful.
I'm not really in the market for a new motor, just got offered this as a trade for a charger that I'm no longer using and am trying to decide if I'll ever use it.
Thanks cherry, I believe the ft has the ti coated hinge pins. I think that the arms have prematurely slipped because of the extra weight from the exo chassis?
The first FT parts I put into my truck were the TN hinge pins, and I can still warp a set of A arms to where they are unusable in two race days outdoor if I don't rotate them L/R every race day. I marked one side with a silver sharpie and I'm up to eight race days on them now, but they are probablly near the end of their life.
I never ran a set long enough to get slop on them.
I sort of disagree with Cherry. If you race indoor, they will last forever because the speeds are lower, but if you race outdoor, not so much.
The first FT parts I put into my truck were the TN hinge pins, and I can still warp a set of A arms to where they are unusable in two race days outdoor if I don't rotate them L/R every race day. I marked one side with a silver sharpie and I'm up to eight race days on them now, but they are probablly near the end of their life.
I never ran a set long enough to get slop on them.
The first FT parts I put into my truck were the TN hinge pins, and I can still warp a set of A arms to where they are unusable in two race days outdoor if I don't rotate them L/R every race day. I marked one side with a silver sharpie and I'm up to eight race days on them now, but they are probablly near the end of their life.
I never ran a set long enough to get slop on them.
Anyone ran the rpm arms ?
Looking for some input on the quality.
I hate slop on my trucks. Some just let it go, I always have to address it...
If I recall correctly, I think people were actually going to the RPM a-arms at one point as they didn't warp as easy as the stock AE arms.
Kjohn
Your ride is almost brand new , truck does break in a little though and maybe now you notice a bit more play ?
That extra weight from your Exotech is only a small amount and really won't make much difference with wear & tear ...
hope to see you @ track soon , still have your note book I believe...
Your ride is almost brand new , truck does break in a little though and maybe now you notice a bit more play ?
That extra weight from your Exotech is only a small amount and really won't make much difference with wear & tear ...
hope to see you @ track soon , still have your note book I believe...
I sort of disagree with Cherry. If you race indoor, they will last forever because the speeds are lower, but if you race outdoor, not so much.
The first FT parts I put into my truck were the TN hinge pins, and I can still warp a set of A arms to where they are unusable in two race days outdoor if I don't rotate them L/R every race day. I marked one side with a silver sharpie and I'm up to eight race days on them now, but they are probablly near the end of their life.
I never ran a set long enough to get slop on them.
The first FT parts I put into my truck were the TN hinge pins, and I can still warp a set of A arms to where they are unusable in two race days outdoor if I don't rotate them L/R every race day. I marked one side with a silver sharpie and I'm up to eight race days on them now, but they are probablly near the end of their life.
I never ran a set long enough to get slop on them.
His truck is almost brand new , still have not seen one wrap arm yet BTW....
Outdoors ?
Thatmakes a difference , O really ...
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The RPM a-arms are actually pretty good. I was very surprised with how stiff they are compared to other RPM stuff I have used in the past.
If I recall correctly, I think people were actually going to the RPM a-arms at one point as they didn't warp as easy as the stock AE arms.
If I recall correctly, I think people were actually going to the RPM a-arms at one point as they didn't warp as easy as the stock AE arms.
A better fit and the shock pin retaining screw does not just spin... It grabs and bottoms out.
I had a set that were really bad (instead of being in line, the inner hinge pin holes lined up a full pin width away from each other) but I tossed them. I sent the rest of my collection to Chris at AE because he wanted to look at them. I think it was 12 sets deep. Some of them were warped so bad I had to pound out the hinge pins with a small ball peen hammer and a punch. When I rolled them on glass, all the hinge pins remained straight. I always check them after every race day (they are already out when I flip the arms).
If you're racing indoor, IMO it's not such a problem because the tracks are smaller and tighter and when you hit something, it's at much lower speed.
You're wasting your time. WC has never seen it because it obviously doesn't exist. This is why I have him on ignore.
Never let the facts get in the way of a good story.
I bought a set. They are stiffer than the AE plastic, and warp worse (more quickly). It is my opinion that the plastic doesn't actually warp, it fractures along the weakest part, which makes them look like they are warped.
I had a set that were really bad (instead of being in line, the inner hinge pin holes lined up a full pin width away from each other) but I tossed them. I sent the rest of my collection to Chris at AE because he wanted to look at them. I think it was 12 sets deep. Some of them were warped so bad I had to pound out the hinge pins with a small ball peen hammer and a punch. When I rolled them on glass, all the hinge pins remained straight. I always check them after every race day (they are already out when I flip the arms).
If you're racing indoor, IMO it's not such a problem because the tracks are smaller and tighter and when you hit something, it's at much lower speed.
You're wasting your time. WC has never seen it because it obviously doesn't exist. This is why I have him on ignore.
Never let the facts get in the way of a good story.
I had a set that were really bad (instead of being in line, the inner hinge pin holes lined up a full pin width away from each other) but I tossed them. I sent the rest of my collection to Chris at AE because he wanted to look at them. I think it was 12 sets deep. Some of them were warped so bad I had to pound out the hinge pins with a small ball peen hammer and a punch. When I rolled them on glass, all the hinge pins remained straight. I always check them after every race day (they are already out when I flip the arms).
If you're racing indoor, IMO it's not such a problem because the tracks are smaller and tighter and when you hit something, it's at much lower speed.
You're wasting your time. WC has never seen it because it obviously doesn't exist. This is why I have him on ignore.
Never let the facts get in the way of a good story.
I love "ignore" LOL



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