Is the strc steering rack a must have? How about their hinge pin supports?

I want to make my truck as bulletproof as possible before I start running the crap out of it.

I already added front and rear swaybars, ft aluminum wheel hexes, ft lower shock mounts.

What else should I be looking for? I believe the rtr comes with the V2 slipper already but is a center diff a better option for racing?

Also should I ditch the stock rtr shock oil and redo them? And if so what is a good setup? Losi 35 front and 30 rear sound close? Rebound? Half, full or none at all?

I replace the steering rack with aluminum on all my cars to get it as slop fr add possible... as a general rule.

I replace whatever breaks with aluminum to an extent... no aluminum a-arms or anything stupid.
I replaced the rear arm mount cuz it broke.

There's not much on the chassis that's fragile and needs replacing though.
I think the C-Diff would be much better than the slipper and I have heard that feed back from others but I won't have mine till next week to say for sure.

Losi or AE fluid 30f/25r in my opinion. While you are at it, pull the screws out of the shafts, clean and blue locktight then reassemble.

Who makes the center diff most are using?

I will go do the oil change now. I have no clue what the rtr shock oils are but it feels a tad stiff.

Also are most of you running rebound or not? Half rebound full rebound or no rebound?

Can someone post pictures of the shorty's in rear setup or give a list of the parts needed to accomplish it? I put the garodisc on my stock slipper this weekend and I noticed alot more on-power acceleration. Like the power was always there anytime I needed it. But, what I noticed was that I was having a hard time with the big jumps. Normally, before the garodiscs what I use to do is wait until I was on the jump then max it, and it used to jump flat in the air most of the time and land smooth. Now, if I try that approach to the jump it would jump nose high until the battery lose some power. Then, it would jump normal again. I also went from 12 to a 14 pinion. I loving those garodiscs, but I have to do something with those big jumps. It was fine until I went to the 14 pinion and garodiscs, but I don't want to change those because I like the always available power from the garodiscs and the extra speed on the backstretch from the 14 pinion.

I want to try the Shorty's. Any pictures of it?

Rcshox.com makes the center diff you want.

Ok thanks.


How about the rebound in the shocks? What are most of you running?

None to 3mm of rebound. Normally just leave the screw out of the cap if using the bladders.

Forgot that question, I run just like above with bladders, zero rebound and no screw in the cap same as Cameron.

i can move the esc to the rx spot and the sr300 rx to the new spot on the right side?

Yes.

OMG what a difference white grease makes. lol my first run, i made a mistake and used black grease and it sucked. i cleaned up my mess(center diff) and it runs awesome. i think the 4600 is too much power, running my 4000 next time i hit the track.

question...

how do i setup my my rx8 with mathis inline saddle?

and if i have the exotek chassis do i really need brace?

thanks

what do you guys thing of this...running TWO shorty's and running them parallel? its 2s and it will have some kick. is it roar legal?

I was thinking of that. It might work but I don't have any shorties to test it with.

Dont laugh, but i ran Promatch 4000Mah shorties in my new FT yesterday. My saddles havent arrived yet and I was hell bent on running the truck. I was able to finish the A-main with room to spare

I think that's fine. Enough juice to finish a race