5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
04-08-2012 | 06:46 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
Center Diff
Exotek center chassis with inline mount
STRC belt pulleys
Only thing I would really want from the FT kit is the shock bodies, but I guess that pretty much makes up the difference in price on their own.
04-08-2012 | 06:51 PM
Tired of reading...
Ok, I know i,ll get blasted but... I have been reading off and on for several days attempting to find a good set up for a larger track set up... The track is 150' x 100' loose and loamy. I'm running RX8 with Tekin 4600 4 pole. I have the Exotek chassis and waiting to get the Cdiff but already have the basket. I see the spring and oil set up but everyone looks to be going to the saddle packs... 1st question why? 2nd is inline or side by side? 3rd which battery holder for the Exotec? Really what is the difference between just balancing the truck with a single stick pack vs the saddle? Thanks guys
04-08-2012 | 07:13 PM
Tech Regular
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 319
From: Newton, NC
Ok, I know i,ll get blasted but... I have been reading off and on for several days attempting to find a good set up for a larger track set up... The track is 150' x 100' loose and loamy. I'm running RX8 with Tekin 4600 4 pole. I have the Exotek chassis and waiting to get the Cdiff but already have the basket. I see the spring and oil set up but everyone looks to be going to the saddle packs... 1st question why? 2nd is inline or side by side? 3rd which battery holder for the Exotec? Really what is the difference between just balancing the truck with a single stick pack vs the saddle? Thanks guys
04-08-2012 | 07:24 PM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,180
From: VA
Inline saddles move the weight to the center of the truck allowing it to transition faster. Side by side saddles move the weight forward. Both saddle setups IMO are better, however the inline is the best. The biggest problem with the stick and side saddles is weight transfer. The batt is the heaviest thing in your truck and when that weight is on the outside of the truck it takes more force to transfer that weight.
So is the exotek really worth it for a casual racer like myself?
04-08-2012 | 07:31 PM
As you can see the rear is basically spot on, the front was the one that was off by the most..........
And this was with body on, and a gens ace 5000mah 40c lipo..........
04-08-2012 | 09:47 PM
OMG what a difference white grease makes. lol my first run, i made a mistake and used black grease and it sucked. i cleaned up my mess(center diff) and it runs awesome. i think the 4600 is too much power, running my 4000 next time i hit the track.
question...
how do i setup my my rx8 with mathis inline saddle?
and if i have the exotek chassis do i really need brace?
thanks
question...
how do i setup my my rx8 with mathis inline saddle?
and if i have the exotek chassis do i really need brace?
thanks
Exotek does not stiffen things up a ton, you still have the plastic front and rear parts of the chassis that give you chassis flex.
I'm getting the FT brace as soon as it's out in stores with the FT rear tower.
04-08-2012 | 09:57 PM
Crank down the current limiter on the RX8 when running the 4600. Mine is all the way down to 60. Tripled my run time on a 5000mah 2s 40c (well over 20 minutes,) dropped my temps 20 degrees after a 5 minute heat, and still has plenty of punch to clear whatever I need to clear.
04-08-2012 | 10:47 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 275
Normally, before the garodiscs what I use to do is wait until I was on the jump then max it, and it used to jump flat in the air most of the time and land smooth. Now, if I try that approach to the jump it would jump nose high until the battery lose some power. Then, it would jump normal again.
04-08-2012 | 10:48 PM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 92
From: Northern Arizona
Can someone post pictures of the shorty's in rear setup or give a list of the parts needed to accomplish it? I put the garodisc on my stock slipper this weekend and I noticed alot more on-power acceleration. Like the power was always there anytime I needed it. But, what I noticed was that I was having a hard time with the big jumps. Normally, before the garodiscs what I use to do is wait until I was on the jump then max it, and it used to jump flat in the air most of the time and land smooth. Now, if I try that approach to the jump it would jump nose high until the battery lose some power. Then, it would jump normal again. I also went from 12 to a 14 pinion. I loving those garodiscs, but I have to do something with those big jumps. It was fine until I went to the 14 pinion and garodiscs, but I don't want to change those because I like the always available power from the garodiscs and the extra speed on the backstretch from the 14 pinion.
I want to try the Shorty's. Any pictures of it?
I want to try the Shorty's. Any pictures of it?
Jason
04-08-2012 | 10:56 PM
Crank down the current limiter on the RX8 when running the 4600. Mine is all the way down to 60. Tripled my run time on a 5000mah 2s 40c (well over 20 minutes,) dropped my temps 20 degrees after a 5 minute heat, and still has plenty of punch to clear whatever I need to clear.
Also I think you have every rc car made. Do you have a pic of all 20 something? Lol thanks for the tip.
04-08-2012 | 11:00 PM
What white grease are you using and what was the difference from the black besides the mess?
Exotek does not stiffen things up a ton, you still have the plastic front and rear parts of the chassis that give you chassis flex.
I'm getting the FT brace as soon as it's out in stores with the FT rear tower.
Exotek does not stiffen things up a ton, you still have the plastic front and rear parts of the chassis that give you chassis flex.
I'm getting the FT brace as soon as it's out in stores with the FT rear tower.
04-08-2012 | 11:19 PM
Tech Rookie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 8
Hi Guys,
I have a sc10 4x4, i have changed the front tyres to Calibers and rears to j concept goosebumps. Recently just fitted the thicker of the sway bars to the front and rear. The truck still in my opinion doesnt handle that great and often spins out and does not turn in particulaly well. Can anyone help or throw me your set ups? I race on fairly loose and dusty track. for the Sydney people its Castle Hill and Ryde.
I have a sc10 4x4, i have changed the front tyres to Calibers and rears to j concept goosebumps. Recently just fitted the thicker of the sway bars to the front and rear. The truck still in my opinion doesnt handle that great and often spins out and does not turn in particulaly well. Can anyone help or throw me your set ups? I race on fairly loose and dusty track. for the Sydney people its Castle Hill and Ryde.
04-09-2012 | 12:31 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Hi Guys,
I have a sc10 4x4, i have changed the front tyres to Calibers and rears to j concept goosebumps. Recently just fitted the thicker of the sway bars to the front and rear. The truck still in my opinion doesnt handle that great and often spins out and does not turn in particulaly well. Can anyone help or throw me your set ups? I race on fairly loose and dusty track. for the Sydney people its Castle Hill and Ryde.
I have a sc10 4x4, i have changed the front tyres to Calibers and rears to j concept goosebumps. Recently just fitted the thicker of the sway bars to the front and rear. The truck still in my opinion doesnt handle that great and often spins out and does not turn in particulaly well. Can anyone help or throw me your set ups? I race on fairly loose and dusty track. for the Sydney people its Castle Hill and Ryde.
Go to www.rc10.com and ck out Max Flurer's Nitro Blast set-up.
Stiffer sway bars are usually only used on higher traction surfaces...
04-09-2012 | 02:20 AM
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 10,180
From: VA
Yes I would at least run the smallest on the rear. It will help with rear traction. Lots of people won't even run a front swaybar on some vehicles because it helps with front traction on looser tracks and with off power steering.
Last edited by MattP; 04-09-2012 at 02:46 AM.