I agree the torque is on the Pro4 is huge...rips. But the Ballistic is still a solid performer in my opinion.

The pro4 is an awesome motor but I am still spanking the tekins with my lrp x12l.

Anyone Notice a Difference between a 5.5 and a 5.0 LRP 550?

With my MMP, I'm going Sensored. (I GOT MONEY!) I'm deciding on either:
550 LRP X12L
Tekin Pro 4
Tekin SC4X

I don't like the LRP though because of the open can. I drive alot of Dusty 8thscale Tracks in the Summer. So the LRP is only a thought because I have better "now" support.
I'm going noob on you guys with sensored Motors. I don't know if I want Tekin, it's kind of annoying to deal with at my Shop. (no support)

I've read and remember all the questions and talk about higher Kv, lower Kv, blah blah.

Why can't you just get the Highest Turn or KV and tone it down to what you need? Why not have Excess power instead of not enough? You racers have the Transmitters to do that. When we're at the lower 10's of turns, Torque is a pointless conversation. We're beyond "great torque" at a 5.0t Motor. Heat, well a toned down high turn would run cool. I have that 550 Castle 1415 and it's turned down voltage wise and gearing. So it runs ice cold and if I "want" more power, I just add timing or gearing. Instead if over-gearing some motor. Is there a logic I'm missing all this time through our 800 pages? I tune a motor speed for the Track so there isn't any "feather throttle".
(Shop employee question as well. I am deciding on what i'm going to carry in store with your answer to this question)

Edit: I decided.

Thanks!

I wish I could offer some technical mumbo jumbo to help you out, but that exact reasoning is why I picked the MMP/1415, just like what you have. The guys at the hobby shop tried to tell me that it might be too much, it's gonna rip, stay with a 540 can, etc.

I figure I can always turn the EPA down; go big or go home.

Right. I agree. I just want to make sure there isn't something making these guys choose certain turns when you can go "tap tap tap" to 80% Throttle on your transmitter and you just turned a 6.5 into a 7.5 etc. Unless i'm being a simpleton.

And on the 1415 note. I love love love that motor. It's just time for a sensored for my racing. Even if I may be hesitant due to not really believing the Sensor is helping 'that' much in our Pro 4 Class.

I'm impressed with it so far. By the time I got home, dremeled, realized I bought a 5mm pinion vs a 1/8" pinion and had to run out again, I was only able to take it up and down the street a few times. This thing rips, even at the gearing you suggested. I even was able to mount the motor fan, after hacking the inside tabs and only using 1 zip-tie.

If you're feeling talkative and have a few minutes, can you explain to me the benefits of being sensored? Yes, I'm new and very impressionable, but from what I've been reading, being sensored is only better at low RPMs and actually a hindrance at high RPMs. That leaves me with 2 questions. 1) What is considered low RPM? The 1415 says max RPM is 75K. and 2) If people are gearing for the straights on their tracks, which is obviously high RPMs, does the gain of being sensored on the technical/slower parts make up for the "loss" on the straights/speed?

I hope that 2nd part makes sense to you.

I'm definitely not someone to really ask about Sensor/sensoreless Theory. But

When you're heading around that corner and you're just barely on the throttle and you go to climb up the RPM's and the Cogging on a Brushless motor jumps an RPM band or two for a moment, breaking your back end out and you cookie; You probably won't be a happy camper. I Intentionally break out my back end because of my style and typical Blown out Small 8th scale Track.

My 1415 has never once let me down due to my style. Guys that are driving these 4wd like a 2wd will definitely see and feel a difference up to dislike for a sensorless.

Hey coyote, try the new tenshock 411, its sensored and its truly a beast!!! Much faster, way more torque than any pro 4 tekin, and its only 89.00

Sorry Ricky. I don't buy Online. Thank you for the suggestion!

who has driven the REEDY SONIC 550 motor in this truck?

Im thinking of getting one.

4.0T = 5100 kV
4.5T = 4500 kV
5.0T = 4100 kV
5.5T = 3700 kV

wich one? I run on a medium sized hardpacked clay 1/10th scales outside track

I run a castle 3800 4-pole now, but I do want something else ( mainly a sensor )..

how are these new reedy motors holding up?

Happy New Year from Australia!!

I have not tried one but i was thinking of trying the 4.0 turn , i currently have the 4.5 Tekin. I wouldnt let the holes in the can scare ya. I run Trinity Duo 3's in all my 1/10 scale stuff and they have large holes in the can. I was skeptical at first about dirt getting in them holes especially on loose outdoor tracks. Luckily i have had no issues and i have alot of races on those trinity motors.
By the sounds of the track you run on you would want atleast the 4.5 in my opinion.

I'll throw some sticks into the sensorless/sensored stove.

At speed the difference in smoothness/feel comes down to the software algorithms in each brand/model esc. Cruising along there is nothing a sensored 550 2 pole motor on an old GTB has over that same motor hooked up to an Mamba Monster if the timing is set comparatively. It's all how well baked your software is.

Obviously at very low to zero rpm's is where the real difference is, but most people think of spinning out in a corner or the start of a main will be the only place they notice it. Other times it will matter is locking up the brakes in the air to bring the nose down or just braking in general.

The mmp smart sense mode and RX8 dual mode are running in sensorless mode after only a couple hundred rpm.

I just wanted to make sure these would mount up correctly. If not could you guys point me in the right direction for wheels. I do already have the tires. thanks

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...2-SC10-XXX-SCT

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Truck-Tires-2

Those will work just fine. Any wheel (12mm hex) that fits the losi SCT, will fit properly on the SC10 4X4 and 2wd and vise-versa. They are the same offset. You can also use the DE Racing and Pro-Line Pro-Trac wheels.

If you run the Slash/ Blitz wheels which will widen your track width, it will help tighten the car up on loose surfaces but you may not be legal depending on which rules you ran.