SC10 4x4 Thread
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Actually, we did away with the membership program and just lowered all of the prices for everyone. Exotek now has a MAP price on the chassis though. Sold the last one last night, they are 2-3 weeks out. They are doing a slight re-design to them so they will also work on the Factory Team kits with thier B44 saddle pack mounts better.
Also, we will be stocking Associated 1/10 kits and all of the parts in about 2 weeks as part of our expansion project. Have been working around the clock to get the parts added to the site.

Also, we will be stocking Associated 1/10 kits and all of the parts in about 2 weeks as part of our expansion project. Have been working around the clock to get the parts added to the site.

What is everyone's experience with the exotek saddle pack in-line mount? I haven't seen any issues posted in this thread.
thanks,
still researching this. But, would defer to the experts on this thread. Is max flurer that good of a driver that he can win on a 1/8 style track that is loose, dirt without the exotek and no extra weight?
see setup for nitro blast:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...Flurer_PNB.pdf
In addition, I saw him race at motorama 2012 in PA. It was a similar 1/8 style track on loose dirt. He only placed 2nd out of nearly 170 drivers for 4wd short course. http://www.rcsoup.com/2012/02/motorama-2012-results/2/
Hell, I would take 1st or 2nd at either of those events. Actually, I'd be happy just to get in the a-main. And he's doing it without the exotek chassis. Not sure about this.
see setup for nitro blast:
http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...Flurer_PNB.pdf
In addition, I saw him race at motorama 2012 in PA. It was a similar 1/8 style track on loose dirt. He only placed 2nd out of nearly 170 drivers for 4wd short course. http://www.rcsoup.com/2012/02/motorama-2012-results/2/
Hell, I would take 1st or 2nd at either of those events. Actually, I'd be happy just to get in the a-main. And he's doing it without the exotek chassis. Not sure about this.
With or without the Exotek chassis Max can drive, he races at my local track here and there.
They are redesigning the exotek chassis to work with the new FT saddle pack mounts ;-), I'll be ordering one as soon as they come out in a few weeks.......
I have my factory team kit coming and ordered the exotek chassis with their saddle pack in-line mounts. I'm assuming this should be fine. But, are you saying that the new exotek will fit the new factory team kit, it just won't work with the b44 saddle pack mount? However, if you have the saddle pack in-line mount, that should be fine, correct?
What is everyone's experience with the exotek saddle pack in-line mount? I haven't seen any issues posted in this thread.
thanks,
What is everyone's experience with the exotek saddle pack in-line mount? I haven't seen any issues posted in this thread.
thanks,
I have the exotek chassis and inline mounts, what I found is that if you are using large lipos like Hyperion 6000s or Gens Ace 6000s, you will want to go with a longer screw to hold them in. You don't necessarily want to use that extra battery post spacer as when you put that on, it makes it hard to get the lipos in and out as they are just too tall, not enough room to lift them out.
I went with the spacer on the front most posts, then nothing on the rear. I can barely flex the rear post now and the batteries come out fine. I probably can take the front spacer out too.
I also used what I think comes with the SC10 4x4 kit, this self sticking battery foam spacer. I cut it so that it would go between the opening on the battery tray and that raised portion on the center of the chassis. this takes up any slack between the batteries and the tray as there is some, at least, from what I am seeing with my batteries.
I would also recommend you loctite the heck out of the lower mounting screws for the battery posts so you don't have them spin when you remove the top screws holding down the strap. What would have been really cool is if exotek had made the battery posts with a small notch on them and a matching one on the tray they stand on. That way the lock together so the post doesn't spin.
Tech Fanatic
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Posts: 877
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Thanks.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 877
From: Connecticut
If you are using all exotek parts I don't see why you would have an issue.
I have the exotek chassis and inline mounts, what I found is that if you are using large lipos like Hyperion 6000s or Gens Ace 6000s, you will want to go with a longer screw to hold them in. You don't necessarily want to use that extra battery post spacer as when you put that on, it makes it hard to get the lipos in and out as they are just too tall, not enough room to lift them out.
I went with the spacer on the front most posts, then nothing on the rear. I can barely flex the rear post now and the batteries come out fine. I probably can take the front spacer out too.
I also used what I think comes with the SC10 4x4 kit, this self sticking battery foam spacer. I cut it so that it would go between the opening on the battery tray and that raised portion on the center of the chassis. this takes up any slack between the batteries and the tray as there is some, at least, from what I am seeing with my batteries.
I would also recommend you loctite the heck out of the lower mounting screws for the battery posts so you don't have them spin when you remove the top screws holding down the strap. What would have been really cool is if exotek had made the battery posts with a small notch on them and a matching one on the tray they stand on. That way the lock together so the post doesn't spin.
I have the exotek chassis and inline mounts, what I found is that if you are using large lipos like Hyperion 6000s or Gens Ace 6000s, you will want to go with a longer screw to hold them in. You don't necessarily want to use that extra battery post spacer as when you put that on, it makes it hard to get the lipos in and out as they are just too tall, not enough room to lift them out.
I went with the spacer on the front most posts, then nothing on the rear. I can barely flex the rear post now and the batteries come out fine. I probably can take the front spacer out too.
I also used what I think comes with the SC10 4x4 kit, this self sticking battery foam spacer. I cut it so that it would go between the opening on the battery tray and that raised portion on the center of the chassis. this takes up any slack between the batteries and the tray as there is some, at least, from what I am seeing with my batteries.
I would also recommend you loctite the heck out of the lower mounting screws for the battery posts so you don't have them spin when you remove the top screws holding down the strap. What would have been really cool is if exotek had made the battery posts with a small notch on them and a matching one on the tray they stand on. That way the lock together so the post doesn't spin.
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (56)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 900
From: Northern VA
Actually, we did away with the membership program and just lowered all of the prices for everyone. Exotek now has a MAP price on the chassis though. Sold the last one last night, they are 2-3 weeks out. They are doing a slight re-design to them so they will also work on the Factory Team kits with thier B44 saddle pack mounts better.
Also, we will be stocking Associated 1/10 kits and all of the parts in about 2 weeks as part of our expansion project. Have been working around the clock to get the parts added to the site.

Also, we will be stocking Associated 1/10 kits and all of the parts in about 2 weeks as part of our expansion project. Have been working around the clock to get the parts added to the site.

Thanks

jk jk, but yeah I'll be ordering one as well........ I'm glad exotek is doing this for those that bought the FT version. And a big ups to trickparts for having outstanding customer service.......
Need a little feedback please.
I just finished assembling my FT SC10 4x4. I have assembled several Tamiya kits on road and off. I also have an Associated SC10.
I equipped the FT with a Reedy 550 size 4.5 motor, LRP Sphere Competition TC spec ESC that I've had for a while in other cars and 1/10 buggies and 32 pitch 62/12 gearing as recommended.
Drive train is free albiet a little stiff compared to a 2wd or 4wd belt Tamiya buggy and mesh is not too tight.
Are these trucks very noisy when you run them slowly on a bench? Went to run in the drive train at maybe 20% throttle and was surprised at how rough sounding they are.
I just finished assembling my FT SC10 4x4. I have assembled several Tamiya kits on road and off. I also have an Associated SC10.
I equipped the FT with a Reedy 550 size 4.5 motor, LRP Sphere Competition TC spec ESC that I've had for a while in other cars and 1/10 buggies and 32 pitch 62/12 gearing as recommended.
Drive train is free albiet a little stiff compared to a 2wd or 4wd belt Tamiya buggy and mesh is not too tight.
Are these trucks very noisy when you run them slowly on a bench? Went to run in the drive train at maybe 20% throttle and was surprised at how rough sounding they are.
I personally would just run the posts without the extensions only and get a longer cap head 2.5mm screw when securing the battery straps. I like the 2.5mm cap heads as I have an MIP ball driver that I can get at them with.
Need a little feedback please.
I just finished assembling my FT SC10 4x4. I have assembled several Tamiya kits on road and off. I also have an Associated SC10.
I equipped the FT with a Reedy 550 size 4.5 motor, LRP Sphere Competition TC spec ESC that I've had for a while in other cars and 1/10 buggies and 32 pitch 62/12 gearing as recommended.
Drive train is free albiet a little stiff compared to a 2wd or 4wd belt Tamiya buggy and mesh is not too tight.
Are these trucks very noisy when you run them slowly on a bench? Went to run in the drive train at maybe 20% throttle and was surprised at how rough sounding they are.
I just finished assembling my FT SC10 4x4. I have assembled several Tamiya kits on road and off. I also have an Associated SC10.
I equipped the FT with a Reedy 550 size 4.5 motor, LRP Sphere Competition TC spec ESC that I've had for a while in other cars and 1/10 buggies and 32 pitch 62/12 gearing as recommended.
Drive train is free albiet a little stiff compared to a 2wd or 4wd belt Tamiya buggy and mesh is not too tight.
Are these trucks very noisy when you run them slowly on a bench? Went to run in the drive train at maybe 20% throttle and was surprised at how rough sounding they are.
I thought the same thing when I ran mine on the bench the first time. It is very noisy in comparison to my 2wd stuff, but similar or lower than my 1/8 buggy. On the track, its quieter than other brand 4wd SCTs.
Has anyone gotten a part number for the new gear cover?
Tech Fanatic
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Posts: 877
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