SC10 4x4 Thread
Understood. I have been running the JConcepts BarCodes (green) and the supplied inserts mounted on hazards wheels for 3 races. Out of the package, the inserts don't seem to fill the tires out which in my opinion creates a flimsy sidewall. Could this be the issue? I seem to have had better success with the HB beams and stiffer inserts. Most guys run slicks for 2wd and 50/50 slicks/treaded for 4wd. Any thoughts.
PM user/moderator Casper and ask him what he runs for an insert at WCRC when he runs gold barcodes - it isn't the Jconcepts insert, and I don't recall what he uses.
We have SC10 4x4 Factory Team Kits In Stock - get them while they last...
http://rcspeedshop.com/product_info.php?products_id=581
http://rcspeedshop.com/product_info.php?products_id=581
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91180/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91188/
If it pushes too much, switch to either 5k or 7K in the front diff. And while you have the rear trans torn down, throw the idler gear away and put a new one in. The coupled slipper makes more grip, and puts a ton of load on the rear transmission - the idler gear is the weakest spot.
Last edited by CraigMBA; 03-29-2012 at 02:49 PM. Reason: bolded the correction D to an R
already posted the set-up many times, posted on www.rc10.com
Kody's Spektrum set-up
I beat Losi's almost every race I run , fast Losi's too .
However, the Durango is faster if you ask me ...
Kody's Spektrum set-up
I beat Losi's almost every race I run , fast Losi's too .
However, the Durango is faster if you ask me ...
Tech Addict
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 729
From: Amarillo Tx
At Dustin's it's bomb. At Brandon's...I'm not so happy with it. But I'm not quitting. I think the solution there is, well, see below:
Decouple the slipper. There is a time and a place for everything, and this is it. You have two options - either search this thread for "pin modification", drill the top shaft and modify the slipper back plate OR order these two parts:
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91180/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91188/
If it pushes too much, switch to either 5k or 7K in the front diff. And while you have the rear trans torn down, throw the idler gear away and put a new one in. The coupled slipper makes more grip, and puts a ton of load on the rear transmission - the idler gear is the weakest spot.
Decouple the slipper. There is a time and a place for everything, and this is it. You have two options - either search this thread for "pin modification", drill the top shaft and modify the slipper back plate OR order these two parts:
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91180/
http://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/91188/
If it pushes too much, switch to either 5k or 7K in the front diff. And while you have the rear trans torn down, throw the idler gear away and put a new one in. The coupled slipper makes more grip, and puts a ton of load on the rear transmission - the idler gear is the weakest spot.
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 37
From: Seattle, WA
For starters if you install the optional steering arm you will probably want to also order 6mm ball studs. The 8mm ball studs that you are probably running currently may stick out the top of the arm and rub on the chassis.
The two positions on the optional steering arm will change the ackermann. You can read about ackermann if you Google it. In a nutshell, if you connect your turnbuckles to the rear most setting you will have less steering and if you connect to the front you will have more steering. This truck already has a lot of steering. I have not tested the optional steering arm, just installed it last night, but I am guessing the rear most setting will be preferred by most. I also believe that's how the FT manual shows it as their "default" configuration. It will ultimately be personal preference and based on the track layout you are running.
Now the experts on this thread can correct me if I provided any mis-information.
If they are running HB beams with success, the Jconcepts green is the wrong compound - that's for outdoor. If it's dusty you can run blue, otherwise you will probably want gold.
PM user/moderator Casper and ask him what he runs for an insert at WCRC when he runs gold barcodes - it isn't the Jconcepts insert, and I don't recall what he uses.
PM user/moderator Casper and ask him what he runs for an insert at WCRC when he runs gold barcodes - it isn't the Jconcepts insert, and I don't recall what he uses.
Thanks Craig
Thank you for being the only one to find humor in my simple joke.


I thought if you weren't stupid, the standard AE slipper is absolutely fine? Why are you wasting money? Only us retards who can't tune a slipper should be buying that "monkey proof" upgrade kit, WC. Save it for us. 
It is not totally the conditions described. But it is the "best start" all around. I'm too into my setup and getting faster and faster each visit to the track, I don't want to touch mine just yet.






5Likes
..I do have other SC's..
