RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Adding or subtracting limiters front and rear and let you change the weight balance of your car slightly. Say you have a slight push coming out of a corner on-power, you can try adding a limiter to the front shocks to keep it from "unloading" all the weight to the rear of the car. Make sense? Kinda?
The car will be slightly more responsive with less. Mostly I judge how muh camber to run by how smooth or rough the surface is. Most of the tracks the pro setups are from are very well manicured tracks, very smooth. If your surface is rough or rutted try running -1 all around. That's what I typically use.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I usually run -1/2 deg camber all the way around. But I do it for a different reason. I'm such a horrible tire gluer that I almost always have 1/2 deg extra either way
I really need to just stop being cheap and use a set of setup rims. Not like I don't have enough
I really need to just stop being cheap and use a set of setup rims. Not like I don't have enough
try changing it by 1 degree in the middle of a run +/- and see. very quick and simple set up change that is valuable and worth knowing. i would not believe it my self if my friend had not pulled it off the track and changed it then put me back out.
My worlds car is 3 weeks old. I have at least 2-3 deg. of play. Not to mention bent rims and bad glue jobs. I severely doubt that anyone is getting it that spot on. Well, they might think they are at least.
a 1/5 degree makes a world of diffrence. changed mine saturday and had a lot more planted feeling and more stable turn in. i am around 1/5 degree front and 0 in the rear. decent smooth track.
try changing it by 1 degree in the middle of a run +/- and see. very quick and simple set up change that is valuable and worth knowing. i would not believe it my self if my friend had not pulled it off the track and changed it then put me back out.
try changing it by 1 degree in the middle of a run +/- and see. very quick and simple set up change that is valuable and worth knowing. i would not believe it my self if my friend had not pulled it off the track and changed it then put me back out.
Too many limiters will let that end of the car drop into the rough stuff... instead of just the tire. The car will bounce around because it doesnt have enough downtravel.
Maybe you should try less limiters, and try moving the rear upper shock position out a hole, but go down a rate on the spring (so if you were running green go to black... only as an example). See if that gives you a little more on power steering... and helps solve the rough stuff issue in one shot.
What inserts are you running in your tires?
Maybe you should try less limiters, and try moving the rear upper shock position out a hole, but go down a rate on the spring (so if you were running green go to black... only as an example). See if that gives you a little more on power steering... and helps solve the rough stuff issue in one shot.
What inserts are you running in your tires?
In 1/8th scale, it doesnt seem to make as much of a difference as it does in 1/10th.
Even tire pattern can make differences with the amount of camber used.
Again as mentioned... track surface plays a huge role in this... and the loamier/looser the track is... the less its played with.
Normally: 0-0.5 deg low traction, smooth track
1deg: usual
2 deg: bumpy / rutted track
5 limiters in the front shock is what the Paul Wynn setup called for. The car handles pretty good, I just wanted to pick up a tad bit more exit steering
If you want exit steering, also consider:
- moving weight forward a little (big change, make sure you dont lose too much forward traction elsewhere)
- raise rear roll centre
Ray
If I am using the factory team .5 rear hub carriers with the 2.5 toe block, does that give me a total of 3, or 3.5? In other words, are the carriers .5 per side, or do they create .5 total?
its measured per side...so with the 2.5 plus the .5 you have a total of 3 per side.



