RC10B4.1 FT/WC
I can't confirm if Losi 56 pistons are = to AE but I can tell you that the number refers to the size of the drill bit that is used to make the hole. AE number 2 is a 56. so I believe it's 1 55, 2 56, 3 57 but I always get 1 and 3 backwards LOL. That's what I get for running 2's everywhere (and why I keep a manual in my pit box :P)
as far as limiters... they affect your weight transfer alot. I am a bit rusty on the details for that too, but I know that you definitely want to look at that aspect of it as well. If you can't find anything, shoot me a PM so I remember to get the info for you tonight. I know I have it saved somewhere at home
as far as limiters... they affect your weight transfer alot. I am a bit rusty on the details for that too, but I know that you definitely want to look at that aspect of it as well. If you can't find anything, shoot me a PM so I remember to get the info for you tonight. I know I have it saved somewhere at home


http://www.teamassociated.com/pdf/ca...ankpistons.pdf
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
proving me all wrong and stuff

I should have video'd me rebuilding my diff last night. First diff rebuild since 2003 ROFL. that's what happens when you take a long time off hahaha.
wonder if I can get this one to last another 9 years
why you dirty rat.......................
proving me all wrong and stuff
I should have video'd me rebuilding my diff last night. First diff rebuild since 2003 ROFL. that's what happens when you take a long time off hahaha.
wonder if I can get this one to last another 9 years
proving me all wrong and stuff

I should have video'd me rebuilding my diff last night. First diff rebuild since 2003 ROFL. that's what happens when you take a long time off hahaha.
wonder if I can get this one to last another 9 years

Something else i ran across this week putting my T4 back together. B4 and T4 shocks downtravel are near identical once assembled with suggested limiters.
I took my B4 v2 shock bodies and installed unshimmed T4 shock shafts in them and they were within 1mm of downtravel of suggested shimmed complete T4 v2 shocks.
For other reasons i wouldnt run it this way (uptravel limiting and shock shaft stroke centering and support), but i thought it was interesting nontheless.
I took my B4 v2 shock bodies and installed unshimmed T4 shock shafts in them and they were within 1mm of downtravel of suggested shimmed complete T4 v2 shocks.
For other reasons i wouldnt run it this way (uptravel limiting and shock shaft stroke centering and support), but i thought it was interesting nontheless.
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,727
From: Wisconsin
Yes, but you will need a very small spacer to go above or below the piston. The diameter is the same but the the losi pistons are a hair thinner.
Many of us have been running the Losi pistons with great success, they have less play in the shock and suck less air as a result. My shocks have never lasted longer then they have since I put in Losi pistons.
Many of us have been running the Losi pistons with great success, they have less play in the shock and suck less air as a result. My shocks have never lasted longer then they have since I put in Losi pistons.
Yes, but you will need a very small spacer to go above or below the piston. The diameter is the same but the the losi pistons are a hair thinner.
Many of us have been running the Losi pistons with great success, they have less play in the shock and suck less air as a result. My shocks have never lasted longer then they have since I put in Losi pistons.
Many of us have been running the Losi pistons with great success, they have less play in the shock and suck less air as a result. My shocks have never lasted longer then they have since I put in Losi pistons.
The best part about the Losi pistons is how tight and smooth they are in the shock bodies. I religiously run them in my truck, I go back and forth on the buggy because I already have a couple great setups I run.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
HAHAHA I wish. It was just that long since I built one. I took a long time off.
As my buddy Chris says, I went to bed, woke up and everything was different!!! I still catch for not understanding why my motor had 3 wires coming off it
I swore they were messing with me 
Although this current one I just had to rebuild was built by a buddy back in Sept
As my buddy Chris says, I went to bed, woke up and everything was different!!! I still catch for not understanding why my motor had 3 wires coming off it
I swore they were messing with me 
Although this current one I just had to rebuild was built by a buddy back in Sept
Last edited by Kraig; 03-08-2012 at 06:10 PM. Reason: language
$20 on 4 pistons??? Where you gettin those? lol. A set of Losi 56 pistons is less than $4 at amain...
The best part about the Losi pistons is how tight and smooth they are in the shock bodies. I religiously run them in my truck, I go back and forth on the buggy becauseT I already have a couple great setups I run.
The best part about the Losi pistons is how tight and smooth they are in the shock bodies. I religiously run them in my truck, I go back and forth on the buggy becauseT I already have a couple great setups I run.
Below is a picture of three springs. Which one of these springs is on your RC car? Which one of these is progressive? (this is a trick question)

This is a picture of a TLR5167, the yellow rear that is popular with folks who are doing the BB conversions. Does this look like the spring in your car, and which spring does it resemble in image above it?

For our application, springs are linear until you physically collapse or buckle them - either into coil bind, or when they deflect so much it effectively shortens their physical length (what you are doing when the spring drags on the shock).
Yes, I'm simplifing, and yes, I know users can google search up research like this, but I submit this isn't critical to understand the concept, nor is it the point WC is trying to make.
But we know progressive springs exist, right? I mean, people claim "this spring is more progressive" all the time. And they do - here's what they look like in real life (on a real short course or trophy truck):

Note the fact there are two separate springs on that shock. This is what makes it progressive - two physically seperated springs with different wire size and a different number of coils per inch.
There are springs marketed as progressive in RC cars too - I even own some. Problem is, even the this HPI spring isn't progressive because it compresses at a linear rate. Don't let the physical shape fool you, the spring would measure exactly the same rate if the coils were all equally spaced because the spring uses the same wire throughout.

The nuts and bolts on how a progressive spring works is this - at the beginning of the travel, the spring rate of the softer spring is the spring rate - not a combined rate. The softer spring compresses first, the second one might as well not be there. At some point the softer spring compresses so much, it's effective rate becomes equal to the stiffer spring (in the example of the King shock, its when the softer spring has totally colapsed into coil bind and the spring rate of the softer spring goes to infinity) . Then the spring rate of the second spring comes into play, and increases the effective spring rate to the second springs rate.
What that means is anyone telling you constant wound springs as more progressive, or less progressive is selling marketing hype; or worse - doesn't know what they are talking about, because the only way to make progressive springs is to use two springs that are physically removed from one another.
Aside from the springs rubbing there are other benefits to the BB springs. Since they are a larger diameter, for a similar spring rate the willingness for the spring to buckle reduces substantially, and therefor decreases any side loading that would be imparted onto the shock (also causes the rubbing). This side loading increases shock shaft drag and reduces the amount of force being transferred to the tire.
WC is right about something - the spring is softer, but it's softer all the way through the travel. This is why some users are having trouble with the BB conversion - their spring selection is softer (too soft) relative to what they were using before.
IMO, it was difficult to run a rate much lower than 1.9 conventional (AE rear Green) because the spring would buckle and it would cause the chassis to handle erratically when the spring hit the shock. By comparison, when I measured it, the 2.0 big bore (TLR yellow) was at least 15% softer (it's more than that, but no, you can't copy my homework - I already told you too much).
This is why I continue to beat this dead horse, and advocate all users check and rate their own springs. Google is chock full of examples on how to do it, and if you don't, you will never know when somebody in the manufacturing process made a mistake somewhere along the way - (which I had happen on my TLR white springs). When I converted to big bore springs, my chassis handled exactly the same before and after converting from AE to Losi springs because I carefully made sure they had the same wheel rate in the truck. The biggest change is my chassis jumped a whole lot better. That made my chassis more consistant, and thus lowered my lap times.
If somebody disagrees with me, I wish they would go to the same trouble I did with WC and use cites to prove me wrong (if I did get it wrong, which I don't think I did else I wouldn't of wrote anything). We are all entitled to our own opinion, but not our own facts, myself included, and even I get it wrong from time to time. Suffice to say, I went to a lot of trouble and expense to find a match for AE greens. And it's not TLR yellows.
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory




