If anyone is interested I have some alum parts for the front end
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...er-blocks.html

That is the "Worlds Kit." It came out just prior to the 8.2. It is virtually the same geometry except towers are taller. If you get the parts you listed, it will have the same feel as the 8.2e. I would recommend getting the hot bodies shock ends for the d8t (they are extended shock ends). The hot bodies shock ends are much nicer than the ones in the Worlds Kit. Also, the finish on the arms looks like crap, but is completely functional.

Only part you are missing is the Associated Low B Plate (ASC89481). This part is used to adjust front roll center and is optional. Stock B plate makes the car smoother and low B plate makes the car more aggressive.

I've done this conversion, but with the BCE chassis. The stock side guards and chassis braces worked.

Stay between 25 and 30wt Associated oils depending on how bumpy the track is. There is a big difference just going up or down 2.5 wt with the 10x1.1 pistons. These pistons are the way to go IMO.

Good to know. I should have the $$ to get the rest of the parts I need soon. I figured that there wasn't much difference between the 2. As much as i want to get an 8.2, cost wise, since I have a solid base, why not use it.



MOmo

Ok I'm new to the 1/8 and would like to get this kit from tower hobbies. As usual everyone has different opinions on what works and others. For racing what could be a good set up motor/esc, nothing too expensive just what will get the job gone. If my driving skills are good then later on fill go for the best set up but for now just want something reliable to put in and gave some fun in the track....any suggestions?

A good setup would be a speed passion silver arrow 2.0 and a 2200kv motor for $144

I built my first RC8e with a LRP SPX8 ESC and a LRP 2500KV engine. Whenever I turn on the toggle switch, the car runs full throttle without even touching my transmitter. What am I doing wrong here? All the wiring and soldering appear okay and my transmitter is on.

MOST ESCs someplace have a Setup button. Typically you hold the set button while the ESC is Off. Then, once the power is turned on, you release the setup button and the ESC enters the setup mode.

From LRPs manual:

TRANSMITTER SETTINGS
Setup the following basic functions on your transmitter (if available):
Description other names in radio Required Setting
Throttle Travel High ATV, EPA 100%
Brake Travel Low ATV, EPA, ATL 100%
Throttle Exponential EXP, EXPO start with 0
Neutral Trim SUB Trim center
Servo Reverse Throttle Don't Change after initial Setup

If your transmitter doesn‘t offer any of above functions, it‘s already in „basic setup“ mode.
• Ensure that the speed-control is not connected to the drive battery and is switched off.
• Remove motor pinion or ensure that the wheels of the model are free to rotate.
• Switch the transmitter on and set the transmitter throttle stick to neutral.
• Connect the speed-control to the battery and switch the unit on.
• Hold the SET button pressed for at least 3sec.
 You entered setup mode and the SET LED flashes blue (it will flash until the setup is completed).
• Leave transmitter in neutral position and press the SET button once.
 Neutral setting is stored , MODE LED flashes yellow and the motor beeps.
• Hold full throttle on transmitter and press the SET button once.
 Full-throttle setting is stored, MODE LED flashes red.
• Hold full brake on transmitter and press the SET button once.
 Brake setting is stored, LED‘s glow red (MODE) and blue (SET).
• This completes the setup procedure and your SPX8 is ready to use.
• If you make a mistake during the setup procedure, don‘t worry: Disconnect the battery for about 10sec and start
again from the first step.
• At the end of each run switch off the car, and then switch off the transmitter.
• At the start of each run switch on the transmitter first, then switch on the car.
• For storage of the car, disconnect the drive battery at any time!



See if that helps.

Manual found here: http://www.competitionx.com/pdf/esc/...esc-manual.pdf

MOmo

Quick question. What pinion would u run with a tekin 2250?

I run 19 tooth w/ a 2200kv on a big outdoor track. Great temps, etc..

Hi Guys,

I just wanted to let you guys know that I'm going to be posting some rc8be parts up for sale...it will be a great way to get some spare parts pretty cheaply. I'll take some pics tonight and hopefully will be posting them tomorrow. PM me if your interested, thanks!

Here's a link for anyone who maybe interested...worlds towers included.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...l#post10390312

Anybody running the tekno v4 chassis right now? My rc8be is running great but I have seen the v4 in action and it looks like it handles sweet! I'm kinda bored with mine, thinking maybe I want to try something different. Any input on this?

hoping to get some answers here.thanx in advance...

in short.i picked up a rc8b and im converting it to a rc8be scte.

questions...

1-is there a motor mount that will fit the rc8b with a tekin pro4 (35.8 mm can)

2-is the snr graphite chassis durable.im looking to find one to cut weight.

How can I fix this?

When I do a big triple at my local track, I land perfectly but when I land it bounces up and flips over....

Do I need thicker shock oil, Right now im running 30wt