Until ROAR revisits the height rule there is no height rule. At least that's the way it was at the 2011 Nats. It states it on their site.

The bumper is not changed and every thing I've read describes this as a skid plate. I've seen aluminum chassis that kick up that far.

Makes sense. I was thining that since the skid and bumper are sold as the same part.

You're talking about Mantis, right?

And: Thank you so much for tearing your truck so much apart to show those pics. That's above and beyond what I needed. Thank you.

Ya V2 for the center diff. Your welcome for the pictures. Some of those were my old chassis and others were during the recent rebuild. Any Q's let me know. I think you will like the battery centered. You may want to consider moving it a 1/4" to the left if using a 540 can. With my 1410 it was a touch right side heavy. With the 4 pole 550 it's even left to right when centered.

Could be a number of different things post your set up and I'm sure you will get plenty of advice. The biggest adjustment I've made is my driving style. Prior to this truck the only thing I had raced was my 1/8 e buggy, it had crummy on power steering so I always got a good run up then coasted threw corners. With this truck I had to learn to stay on throttle threw any corners that carried decent speed or the truck would do a quick 180. Last race my back end was loose so I moved the rear shocks all the way in on the tower and it helped but it could be a wide variety or combination of things. Remember when looking at online set UPS that they can be a good starting point but are based on track conditions and driving style. I would love to be able to give you some really good advice but I'm a rookie compared to most of the guys here. I can tell you that my current set up which I love came from hours of reading this thread. Good luck to you.

Yeah, waiting for that diff too.

I'm just dead centering it and weight balancing like any other chassis. I appreciate it, again.

It is difficult to tell from the picture, but the flange is on the side where the arrow is, which I believe matches the instructions.

You have it on correct, CEW. I can see the plastic ledge on your pic.

Just got my center ball diff and getting ready to install it but I don't see any instructions.

I figured out that the blue countersunk washers are for centering the metal discs but where does the single small silver metal washer go?

I test assembled the parts and it seems like the spur sticks out a bit further than before... Is this correct and I just need to move the pinion out a bit?

I'm using the original bronze pieces to tighten down against the diff washers.

I believe there is a set of instructions on his thread.

Yup. Page 1

After getting it all together I found the shaft would rotate smoothly without binding. I did have to tighten the two 24mm and one 26mm screws down then back them out just a bit. Of course, the backing them out/not tightening too much is well documented on here. Thanks everyone for your help. Now I just need to get to the track to see if the clicking/gear skip sound is gone.

Shaun,

A few pages late but here is another take on the center-line pack mounting. I have seen a nearly exact same setup from someone else on here as well. Pretty simple, just some Dremel work, a set of the Associated battery cups (ASC6334) and 4 new countersunk holes in the center chassis.

You have mentioned the MMP before so here are some pics to show that it fits. I also had to include a pic of this seasons body before it gets destroyed! Just as SCTDan mentioned you have to remove the center brace and some from the side for the speed controller. You will need to notch the cups as well for the MMP. Personally I really like the mod and it saves the expense of buying the saddle packs Only difficult thing is that one of the two battery posts will end up directly under the belt housing so it takes a bit of work to unplug.

If you look closely you will notice the sensor wire running through the center to rear chassis mount ... there is a hole there that once opened up a bit provides a great path for the wire keeping it locked in place, out of harms way and nicely dressed. And yes, those are street tires. The only local track is pavement so my playing in the dirt is limited to my back yard track. Speaking of dirt, anyone have some good suggestions for tracks in the Phoenix area? I ran a few Cactus Classics back in the day but do not know of any other tracks down there.

Jason

Not too late at all! I love that setup. How freaking easy. Have you noticed any bracing needed because you cut out those screws into the chassis? I'm sure cutting the bracing on the side won't matter a bit, but I don't see you bracing the chassis after removing some of the bracing itself.

Thank you very much for showing that. I can use a culmination of both of yours and suite my needs perfectly. Thanks alot Jason!

Edit: Btw, Great looking Truck. And can't go wrong with an AE paintjob!