Comparing it to traffic flow, we need to make a couple unusual assumptions about traffic to make that analogy work. It has to do with smooth fluid flow (fluid travels in a smooth line that doesn't change) versus turbulent flow (fluid spirals out of control in a rather random pattern. The first results in relatively low resistance while turbulent flow can be several magnitudes higher.

Relating this back to your car analogy, think of traffic heading full bore at the conical side and having plenty of time to merge smoothly into the center lane. Now imagine that same traffic is given no warning and all has to merge at once. They collide with each other at the entrance spiraling out of control through the piston.

Kind of like the taper of an old brass fire nozzle?

Edit: Nevermind, posted a comment about inline saddle, you are talking about inline stick.

Wouldn't running lighter diff oil help with under steer as well without having to change the toe? Going to 5k both front and rear fixed my understeer problems running the center diff.

If I am right that would remove rear grip, right? I don't want to remove rear grip, it barely has enough as it is. I think I need to add front grip.

Think about a 5 lane highway that over a few miles merges the two outside lanes down two 3 lanes, then merges 3 lanes to 2 lanes, then merges the 2 lanes into one, vs. a 5 lane that suddenly has all but the middle lane blocked off with concrete walls. The cars would come up to the wall and stop, then have to back up and slowly work their way to the opening.

If wonder if you used thicker pistons with cones on both sides but with different sized openings, if you would get smoother pistons over all. Or ideally a computer molded tunnel to maximize the rates in each direction.

Huh, seems like if you have low rear grip it would oversteer unless the front have even less grip. In that case I would think you need different tires, or just have to take the corner slower if grip is that low.

My under steer was caused by the rears pushing too hard and the fronts couldn't compensate. Going from 10k to 5k in the front let the outside front wheel spin faster and helped the front get a little more pull around the turn.

Reducing toe-in (running 3-3 block) reduces the truck's willingness to want to drive in a straight line since each wheel isn't trying to push to the middle as hard. Easy way to image this would be a 90deg toe in obviously the truck would not move forward or side ways no matter what you did to the front.

I can see why having less rear toe can make it difficult to handle on rough track since the bumps make the truck want to turn and there is less stabilizing force in place, but I don't understand why it makes the rear end stiffer?

The 3-3 block doesnt change toe, only antisquat 3-2 is 2* of anti squat,3-3 is 3* of anti squat. 3* of toe on both.

Guys hate to do this but pro4 is dead at my track.
let me know what you think if Im way over priced or where I need to be to sell.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...light=sc10+4x4

This forum is one of the best on here! Hopefully Pro4 picks back up for the summer since my local track is hosting ROAR nationals this year and hope to be a part of that with this truck.

Thanks

It does oversteer, but it is very manageable. I will try the 3-3 block and blue front spring in the rear tomorrow before the race.

I know binding and gear boxes have been discussed many times on here. For example, tightening the screws down too tight. I'm not sure if this particular issue has been discussed. I find, with the gear box apart, the differential gear and idler gear bind up just slightly in certain spots. Specifically, at the top of the idler there is a overhang/lip. The teeth on the differential are sometimes hitting the lip and it binds up ever so slightly. Has anyone had this issue. If the idler sat up just a little further it would solve the issue, but I'm wondering if something is just worn out or maybe I'm doing something wrong.

I have had an idler that had one tooth damaged in my front gear box when testing the pin mod. Replace the idler and it was fine again. Also be careful of using too long of screws in the upper shock tower mounts. The screws will mess up the case right at the idler gear.

Ill throw in the other blues first and test out on the low grip track here. Ill post up what happens. Thanks man.

Mantis, Do you have a post with your setup? I'd be interested to see it.

Quick question and hopefully not the first to ask but i ran my truck this weekend with the box setup with bowties all around but was running close to one of ryan mayfields setups for a medium traction dry track and tried a few things but could NOT STOP getting the rear end of this truck to stop comeing around OFF power like off the straight away i tried a few small tings but it kept spinning out off power which made me baby the truck and lost alot of time due to this. Anyone out there had this simalar problem or is it just the tires i was running i couldnt switch my tires to check if it was them because i only had one set at the time. Plkease help me and thanks for reading this far as i know my Punctuation spelling and run on sentences are horrid.