5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
02-27-2012 | 08:24 PM
I AM S O PISSED RIGHT NOW......... So i get on to Amain and order the Orion Vortexr10
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...s-ESC-90A-2-3S
It came in last week so tonight i decide to install it and go to the track tomorrow to test the idler gear. I picked this model because it has reverse rotation (so i thought...) and boost capabilities. Well after i soldered it up (luckily i cut no wires) i go to program it only to discover that this one F*&^ing model has no timing or boost and will not do reverse rotation WTF????? why in the hell would anyone pay 175.00 for and ESC that has fixed timing? DAMMIT....
As much as i spend with Amain i hope they will take it back or something, nowhere on the description does it state this. UUUUUUUGH
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...s-ESC-90A-2-3S
It came in last week so tonight i decide to install it and go to the track tomorrow to test the idler gear. I picked this model because it has reverse rotation (so i thought...) and boost capabilities. Well after i soldered it up (luckily i cut no wires) i go to program it only to discover that this one F*&^ing model has no timing or boost and will not do reverse rotation WTF????? why in the hell would anyone pay 175.00 for and ESC that has fixed timing? DAMMIT....
As much as i spend with Amain i hope they will take it back or something, nowhere on the description does it state this. UUUUUUUGH
~ I always check the main websites before I order anything. I don't listen to a word the dealer websites have to say.
Even a Castle has reverse rotation, so that's pretty odd imo.
02-27-2012 | 08:33 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 2,069
I AM S O PISSED RIGHT NOW......... So i get on to Amain and order the Orion Vortexr10
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...s-ESC-90A-2-3S
It came in last week so tonight i decide to install it and go to the track tomorrow to test the idler gear. I picked this model because it has reverse rotation (so i thought...) and boost capabilities. Well after i soldered it up (luckily i cut no wires) i go to program it only to discover that this one F*&^ing model has no timing or boost and will not do reverse rotation WTF????? why in the hell would anyone pay 175.00 for and ESC that has fixed timing? DAMMIT....
As much as i spend with Amain i hope they will take it back or something, nowhere on the description does it state this. UUUUUUUGH
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...s-ESC-90A-2-3S
It came in last week so tonight i decide to install it and go to the track tomorrow to test the idler gear. I picked this model because it has reverse rotation (so i thought...) and boost capabilities. Well after i soldered it up (luckily i cut no wires) i go to program it only to discover that this one F*&^ing model has no timing or boost and will not do reverse rotation WTF????? why in the hell would anyone pay 175.00 for and ESC that has fixed timing? DAMMIT....
As much as i spend with Amain i hope they will take it back or something, nowhere on the description does it state this. UUUUUUUGH
02-27-2012 | 08:44 PM
The main reason I point this out is that if there is some drag somewhere in jsamarin's drive train, that could explain both the high level of power consumption, and the exploding idler gears.... If it's the rear idler, I'd be looking for drag between the idler, diff, rear CVDs, and rear hubs.
02-27-2012 | 09:08 PM
Does this seem high to anyone else? I run the Tekin 5.5T SC4x, which is 4000kv as well....and I know this isn't entirely comparing apples to apples, but I can get damn near 15 minutes out of my Reedy 5500s.... 5000mAh in 6 minutes is more than double my power consumption....
The main reason I point this out is that if there is some drag somewhere in jsamarin's drive train, that could explain both the high level of power consumption, and the exploding idler gears.... If it's the rear idler, I'd be looking for drag between the idler, diff, rear CVDs, and rear hubs.
The main reason I point this out is that if there is some drag somewhere in jsamarin's drive train, that could explain both the high level of power consumption, and the exploding idler gears.... If it's the rear idler, I'd be looking for drag between the idler, diff, rear CVDs, and rear hubs.
I definitely noticed a much larger drain with my Pro 4 than my 1410. Kinda upsettingly so, but it's a race motor so I shrugged it. But it is not as drastic as his.
I think it's Trublshewt tym!
02-27-2012 | 09:31 PM
Tech Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,287
From: Sweden/Stockholm
Tighten the belt adjusters one notch tighter. Make sure they are fairly equal front and rear (you don't want one fully tight, and the other fully loose).
Make sure your chassis brace is still intact. You should be able to push both shock towers together and not have the belt tension change. If it does, you need to make the brace longer.
Make sure your chassis brace is still intact. You should be able to push both shock towers together and not have the belt tension change. If it does, you need to make the brace longer.
Thank you Craig, i might done a minor misstake here, and tighten the front one klick to much...il look over it.
The brace is intact,and working ace
Thanks again Craig for the tip
/T
02-27-2012 | 09:38 PM
Anyone experience some difficult to troubleshoot driveline binding/lag/friction (pick your favorite descriptive term).
In short:
Fresh rebuild, new fluids, new bearings (all of them), new pullies, new belt, new idler gear.
Take the belt off, everything spins freely, put the belt on, everything binds up.
I went back to the manual settings for a new belt (2nd hole in rear, 3rd hole up front).
Kind of at a loss. :\
In short:
Fresh rebuild, new fluids, new bearings (all of them), new pullies, new belt, new idler gear.
Take the belt off, everything spins freely, put the belt on, everything binds up.
I went back to the manual settings for a new belt (2nd hole in rear, 3rd hole up front).
Kind of at a loss. :\
02-28-2012 | 04:52 AM
Anyone experience some difficult to troubleshoot driveline binding/lag/friction (pick your favorite descriptive term).
In short:
Fresh rebuild, new fluids, new bearings (all of them), new pullies, new belt, new idler gear.
Take the belt off, everything spins freely, put the belt on, everything binds up.
I went back to the manual settings for a new belt (2nd hole in rear, 3rd hole up front).
Kind of at a loss. :\
In short:
Fresh rebuild, new fluids, new bearings (all of them), new pullies, new belt, new idler gear.
Take the belt off, everything spins freely, put the belt on, everything binds up.
I went back to the manual settings for a new belt (2nd hole in rear, 3rd hole up front).
Kind of at a loss. :\
That's all I can think of...right now. Need coffee...
02-28-2012 | 05:31 AM
Fresh rebuild, new fluids, new bearings (all of them), new pullies, new belt, new idler gear.
Take the belt off, everything spins freely, put the belt on, everything binds up.
I went back to the manual settings for a new belt (2nd hole in rear, 3rd hole up front).
Kind of at a loss. :\
Take the belt off, everything spins freely, put the belt on, everything binds up.
I went back to the manual settings for a new belt (2nd hole in rear, 3rd hole up front).
Kind of at a loss. :\
AE/STRC - I'd like to see an aluminum front inner belt housing....the rear goes into aluminum....the front should too. (Yes, I know....more weight up high....but less flex in the belt tunnel.)
02-28-2012 | 08:22 AM
I guess none of the AE guys ran. I seen picutures of RC truck practicing but I guess did not run. From what I heard Lutz was runing the stage 2's
| + YouTube Video | |
Just talked to Ryan he was running RCshox pistons!!
02-28-2012 | 10:23 AM
At the track right now trying the white front springs on the rear. After 1 pack I'm really liking it. Also went with a lighter front sway and heavy rear. Working on better on power steering. So far I really like the results. Faster on the sweepers and I can really get on it half way through the hair pins and hardly push at all.