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Old 02-27-2012 | 06:13 PM
  #18316  
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Originally Posted by lawnmowerjockey
Hey guys my pro 4 4600 will be here tomorrow. Any suggest suggestions on pinion size. Currently running the scx4.5 13/62 and sometimes 14/62. Running the exotech with saddles on mid size track with fairly long straight with lap times in the mid 30s. Thanks for the help.
Motor got here a day early. Anyone have any suggestions on pinion. I've heard they have a lot more torque and don't know how talk to gear it or how the too end is.
Thanks
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Old 02-27-2012 | 06:14 PM
  #18317  
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Originally Posted by lawnmowerjockey
Motor got here a day early. Anyone have any suggestions on pinion. I've heard they have a lot more torque and don't know how talk to gear it or how the too end is.
Thanks
keep the 13
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Old 02-27-2012 | 06:25 PM
  #18318  
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Originally Posted by 1Fastpede
keep the 13
Thanks, will top end be that much better with the 4600 over the scx 4.5
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Old 02-27-2012 | 06:38 PM
  #18319  
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What about aftermarket diffs?
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Old 02-27-2012 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Hard Drive
What about aftermarket diffs?
~When things are set up properly, I've never had a diff issue, or a Idler.

I've bent topshafts, the only "metal" part of the diff before I tore plastic gears 'in a good running enviroment'
I've rounded inner diff gears, shimmed them and fixed
I've broke idlers, running pinned and slipper too tight. loosened it up, never a problem again.

When something's not right, bad stuff tends to happen though. no doubt.


ALL OF WHICH ISN'T THAT BIG OF A DEAL COMPARED TO YESTERDAY'S STEERING SERVO SAVER CATASTROPHE.
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Old 02-27-2012 | 06:47 PM
  #18321  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
~When things are set up properly, I've never had a diff issue, or a Idler.

I've bent topshafts, the only "metal" part of the diff before I tore plastic gears 'in a good running enviroment'
I've rounded inner diff gears, shimmed them and fixed
I've broke idlers, running pinned and slipper too tight. loosened it up, never a problem again.

When something's not right, bad stuff tends to happen though. no doubt.


ALL OF WHICH ISN'T THAT BIG OF A DEAL COMPARED TO YESTERDAY'S STEERING SERVO SAVER CATASTROPHE.
well if your going to say my slipper is to tight, then im gunna say your servo saver is too tight
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Old 02-27-2012 | 06:59 PM
  #18322  
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What about the play the outdrives have?
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Old 02-27-2012 | 07:13 PM
  #18323  
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Originally Posted by Hard Drive
What about the play the outdrives have?
The fix for that is to machine down the diff case and use a bearing to help support it. Slop is next to zero when done. Testing my machine work and bearings before offering my services.
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Old 02-27-2012 | 07:15 PM
  #18324  
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Originally Posted by jsamarin
I was thinking i put it together wrong after i broke the second idler, so i broke out the manual, and it was build correctly.



At the beginning of the day, i was running the mtk basket, with garodiscs and the nut flush, and it would blow in about 4 mins, however with no basket and just garodisks, i could get about 8 mins. Im a very agressive driver, and was landing on power on certain jumps, however, the slipper should have been taking some of the shock out, and perserving the gear.

Im thinking of trying hot racing idergears, however would running them strip the stock plastic diff gears?
sounds to me like you just have the slipper set too tight. You can allow the Garodisc to slip and still get full power to the ground.
The Hot idler gears are not very good and wear out quickly......
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Old 02-27-2012 | 07:40 PM
  #18325  
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When is the FT kit available?
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Old 02-27-2012 | 07:56 PM
  #18326  
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I have been driving my SC10 for a lil over a month. I bought it as the RTR model. Today, I was at the local shop, which has a track, and ended up frying my ESC. I thought it was worse and checked out the motor and all since the wheels were dragging. End result was that the belt somehow flipped over and was causing so much drag that it fried the ESC. Right now, I have been asking people that come to the track frequently and those drivers with their own SC10's and they all gave me mixed information as to setting up mine. I've seen lots of videos of a Castle set up and heard great things of the Mamba kits. I would like to know what is a great set up for the buck. Speed, Durability (waterproof), & Power.

PS: As of now (and the available parts at the shop) I've looked into a Castle ESC and a Tekin Pro4 4600KV set-up.
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Old 02-27-2012 | 07:56 PM
  #18327  
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Originally Posted by jsamarin
well if your going to say my slipper is to tight, then im gunna say your servo saver is too tight
Difference there is, mine mechanically could not have been any looser, Or the Truck wouldn't go back together.
I only tease~

In all seriousness, Not saying it's anyone's "fault" Only that through this 1200 pages, we've always fixed these breaks by setting things correctly for said "modification" or "change". I blew two idlers before I made my truck harmonize with the Pinned mod. Then I drove 6 months with the pin before going to Mantis' center diff.
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Old 02-27-2012 | 08:08 PM
  #18328  
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I AM S O PISSED RIGHT NOW......... So i get on to Amain and order the Orion Vortexr10

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...s-ESC-90A-2-3S

It came in last week so tonight i decide to install it and go to the track tomorrow to test the idler gear. I picked this model because it has reverse rotation (so i thought...) and boost capabilities. Well after i soldered it up (luckily i cut no wires) i go to program it only to discover that this one F*&^ing model has no timing or boost and will not do reverse rotation WTF????? why in the hell would anyone pay 175.00 for and ESC that has fixed timing? DAMMIT....
As much as i spend with Amain i hope they will take it back or something, nowhere on the description does it state this. UUUUUUUGH
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Old 02-27-2012 | 08:15 PM
  #18329  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Difference there is, mine mechanically could not have been any looser, Or the Truck wouldn't go back together.
I only tease~

In all seriousness, Not saying it's anyone's "fault" Only that through this 1200 pages, we've always fixed these breaks by setting things correctly for said "modification" or "change". I blew two idlers before I made my truck harmonize with the Pinned mod. Then I drove 6 months with the pin before going to Mantis' center diff.
yea, i was kidding with that comment, but ive been here from the start, and have read all 1200 pages, and the ones from the original thread. The slipper was set correctly with and without the clutch basket (was to loose for my liking) and it still was stripping the idler. The truck is un pinned aswell!

Im not sure if its my driving style thats doing this, or that something in the rear tranny isnt correctly seated (I did put a new diff case on aswell thinking that may help).

Oh yea, i was putting 4900-5050mah back into my battery in 6 mins with no warm up laps with a 4000kv pro 4, and moderate esc settings. Im on the throttle alot, which im thinking might have something to do with it
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Old 02-27-2012 | 08:23 PM
  #18330  
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Originally Posted by jsamarin
yea, i was kidding with that comment, but ive been here from the start, and have read all 1200 pages, and the ones from the original thread. The slipper was set correctly with and without the clutch basket (was to loose for my liking) and it still was stripping the idler. The truck is un pinned aswell!

Im not sure if its my driving style thats doing this, or that something in the rear tranny isnt correctly seated (I did put a new diff case on aswell thinking that may help).

Oh yea, i was putting 4900-5050mah back into my battery in 6 mins with no warm up laps with a 4000kv pro 4, and moderate esc settings. Im on the throttle alot, which im thinking might have something to do with it
Definitely not your style in my opinion. I go from very fine quick driving at PRCR to downright "abuse" at my native Track, Throttle abuse, landing under power, etc. And i've never had my trigger finger being the result. /myopinion
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