how do you keep the diff grease between the plates and balls ?
seems to look like an "open" ball diff.

do you need to clean it up much? does dust and dirt come in easy ?

how is durability of this centre diff ?

i will be getting my sc10 4x4 in the mail tomorrow. i alreday know what i am putting in it for a motor.

That's after however many months of running. (got the first batch)
You just don't use alot of Balldiff goop. It flings the excess, that's what stays, the perfect amount. I've abused my truck and everything is solid. I barely had marks on the metal disks. Dust gets in there, but It's not tiny like a 2wd balldiff. The balls and plates can handle the dust from the belt. It's never once felt or sounded grindy and I drive on Sandy/dusty/f*cked up tracks.

I want to know how the diff ring are held to the slipper plates? In on-road they were keyed so they would not spin on the plates, how are they attached? If they are not why not key them onto the plates?
Paul

www.RCShox.com

(installations)

With pressure. It is easyer for the diff to diffout than it is for the rings to spin against the hubs. Make sense?

Currently there are many ball diffs that dont use keyed rings. It is not needed because they dont slip. As SYM stated the dif will dif out before slipping the discs. Secondly would be cost. To key the assembly means having to make new inner and outer hubs along with custom made dif rings and that would drive the unit up to around 90.00 and would perform no better than they perform now.

saw these almost a month ago. I was thinking about trying a set in my B44.1 for fun.

The bypass function is fine, the problem is you can't separately adjust compression and rebound like you can with the MantisWorks pistons. If you're into messing with that sort of thing. The really hot ticket would have both. AND the really, really hot ticket would be an inexpensive, portable, and small shock dyno.

Since I can't measure a shock, so I don't mess with valving in that way.

Both techs combined would be great. The problem I see is using up the volume inside the shock body for valving and shims and losing oil capacity. I used to race off road motorcycles (Hare & Hound, Enduro, etc) and did a lot of my own suspension work including valving and shim stacks for my forks and shock. Having a piggyback shock cap to increase oil capacity and using shim stacks with two stage pistons would be fantastic. At what point does it become so overcomplicated and expensive that you spend all your time on maintanence and tuning for minimal improvement and less track time. As some one here says "practice more and eat cheese" Sometimes the K.I.S.S. method is the best and like most thing it becomes a matter of increased cost and complexity with diminished returns. There is a kid at our track who was running a stock SC10 4X4 with no sway bars, no brace, stock slipper glazed and slipping, and bald tires turning faster lap times than 75% of the guys at the track. Refer to "practice more and eat cheese" (I don't eat the cheese but do practice)

Cheese , with out ?


You don't the clear the jump , no good laps and the B -main is called home .

Started building my 4x4vand was wondering what is the effect with that overdrive gear on the clicker, what will it do if installed???

I work on stuff I can measure and control, and do my best to minimize the rest.

The most important tools in my toolbox are (in no particular order) chassis scales, the leveled setup board, the ride height gauge, a 30' Stanley tape measure, the stopwatch, and my brain.

Hey do you mind giving a quick run down on how you setup using the 4 scales method?

I've tried this but have trouble getting consistant results. Could be my table not being level, minute changes in spring compresssion changing the weight on each corner, etc.

I've tried both with tires and with out tires, with tires seemed to be a little more consistent, but when i tried to add weight to balance left/right, it seems like it took way too much weight (2-3oz) to make a few grams difference as I added them.

Also, I've noticed this more on 2wd but 4x4 as well, when i hit jump on throttle I seem to lean left or right inconstantly the L/R balance was pretty close on the scales and balancing on my fingers looks level. It's a tight track, so I'm thinking one rear wheels is spinning faster and cause that side to rise higher? The jump face is fairly smooth and even.

What version do I have?