I actually had a problem with the belt rolling off at the track under bracking and i tightened it up and ran all night with no problems. Im in the prosses of putting a reedy sonic 4.5 and am gonna see how that motor hold up against the other competition

14t with 14degrees of timing up top over 8k rpms to 32k

Cayote just by you taking the time to respond with out any helpful info is enough said. To the people that have actually posted helpful info thank you for your time.

Hello all,

This is my first post and I would like to thank everyone for sharing their experience.
I am getting back into RC's after a hiatus since the early 90's. Obviously, the game has changed drastically. I am currently assembling my SC10 4x4 kit with a Castle Sidewinder SCT combo w/ 1410 4 pole motor. I bought a RRP 32p 13 tooth pinion. I noticed two things:

1: The pinion is smaller in depth of teeth than the spur. In other words the pinion only makes contact with 2/3 of the spur. Has anyone experienced this? Is this "normal" or do I need to buy some other type of pinion?

2. In order for the pinion to make any contact with the spur, I have to tighten the pinion hanging off the motor shaft. The shaft only reaches so far past the motor mount and in order to have the gears line up, The pinion is placed almost as far out on the shaft I can while still allowing the tightening screw to work. So the top of the pinion is actually hanging out over the motor shaft. I apologize for the wordy explanation; however, I hope this makes sense. Does anybody use the 1410 (with small motor shaft, not 5mm) in the SC10 4x4? And have you had any of these problems? Or is this not a problem?

Thank you for all your help

PS. Did I post this with proper "post etiquette"?

lawl. Keep on keepin', Matlock.

I ran a 1410 for quite a while. I used Traxxas hardened steel pinions because I think RR pinions are rediculously pointless. (my opinion only)

I never have a problem with traxxas pinions as far as your problem. I actually have issues with that shaft being 'too' long in my Tamiya cars. So i'm not sure how to solve the problem without just going to another pinion. Maybe someone else has a better idea. (5mm adapter?)

I ran the 1410 for quite some time with a robinson pinion, no problems. The spur is thicker (wider) than the pinion but did not cause any issues. Only problem I see is, you may want to get a few more teeth on the pinion... most people run 15 - 16t with that motor.

hey whats the shock oil everyone is using with the two stage pistons i race at s&ns trackside med sized indoor track hard packed dirt i have the 1.1 f/ 1.2 r and i was using 35/30 with the reg pistons

1.2/1.2
25/20
yellow/blue

Depends on the track and conditions to some degree however, I believe Mantis (manufacturer) suggested 25 front / 20 rear when Coyote asked a little while back. I personally run 27.5 front / 25 rear on a med/large big jumps loamy sort of track.

I agree. I actully dial down in my MMP first then fine tune on the TX according to track conditions before a race.

I was just trying to explain the other guy that his issues with his belt skipping and or coming off are because he is running way too much brake and he needs to adjust down.

There isnt anything wrong except the design of the truck. I drive on tarmac alot so there is a fair bit of grip and tension on the belt under brakes. I can tell you my truck is the same as any other and the front tensioner pulley flexes up under brakes and it makes the belt run off. A brace wont help this problem either, because it wont stop the belt putting pressure on the pulley.

Drive on tarmac or other grippy surface long enough and use the brakes well and you will see what I am talking about.

I ran my truck i the street to test the brakes after I built it up a few weeks ago. I set braking power to 50% in the ESC. I hit the brakes hard and heard the belt skip. I then dialed down the EPA on the brakes till the belt no longer skipped. I use tensioner settings n manual. I then tested at the track and had to dial down the brakes slightly more. Truck stops quickly but controlled. No issues with belt coming off or skipping. If you still have this isse after adjusting the brakes correctly, then something is wrong with your truck.

Previously I was running 30K diff fluid in the front and 5K in the rear.
Last week the track was wet turning to dry with a little dust. The truck handled great but I felt I needed a little more on power steering.

I refilled the front diff with 10K fluid and raced it tonight. It rained yesterday and the track was much more tacky. Wow, what a difference. Truck had mad steering but was a little twitchy. I added 2mm shims under the front ball studs and this calmed it down but it still feels a little loose in the rear. Will try different ballstud heights in the rear to calm it down.

Why should you have to set the EPA so you no longer hear the belt skip? By doing that you are taking away braking power from not only the front but the rear wheels aswell, and losing braking distance!

Final Time: You're wrong.

I drive in my back lot 3 or 4 times a week to get my kicks due to lack of time to hit the Track. I know my truck, I know your truck (as you state mine has the same problem as yours) Guess what? You're wrong. Your Truck is doing something none of us have a problem with. You're not magically doing what you know we would do too under the same circumstances. Your Truck has an issue that needs to be diagnosed and figured out with a little time, Time which you are wasting debating with me about how My truck has your problem too if I 'tried'. Guess what? Wrong again!

I have driven this Truck on all surfaces. I have driven it on all surfaces under many setups and I do not. Have. your. Issue. Your Truck has something going on with it to where you have a flex we do not. A Chassis brace fixed every. single. one of these guy's problems when we were the pioneers of this truck in a matter of speaking. This is why I began selling chassis braces for little to no profit of my own, because I wanted to keep people in this truck so We had a community. That's not white knight'ing. That's my honest reasons.

I'm getting very tired of being told my truck will do what it won't, repeatidly.

If you want help. Post pics and let us see what's going on if possible. Because 'we' cannot repeat your issue, our trucks Not having your issue and all.

I'm very sorry this is a asshole post, but you're getting on my nerves about refusing to listen whatsoever to people that have had the Truck 9 months and raced and won clubs and nationals, to the bashers who run the Effer on 4S and Mamba monsters in it. (f_me, craig, myself, and others) They don't have this "defect". Lighten up and accept the help instead of telling us ours is broken too. Cause it's not.

- I have lawn darted at full throttle
- I have drag raced cars on the side of my house
- I have raced in the back lot
- I have slammed full reverse and pulled the front end around on concrete for wicked Fast and the Furious Driving!
- I have ran with and without a Chassis brace
- I have ran with a SLOPPY belt
- I have ran with a far too tight, causing far too much drag belt
Answer: Never once In 9 months and 2 belts: _________________

Fill in the Blank!