conical on a bump to tight track.
big air there a white flat piston out for when you feel the car jumps to flat on the conical piston

what is the weight as roller?

Finally starting my build today and have a couple quick questions. I am using the anti-squat plate RR FR 2.5 - 4.5 (#600308) and the LRC RR RR LR 3
(#600267). Any idea on where to start with inserts??

in the toe plate 6 insert gives you 3 degs
but since it low roll center it add 1 deg squat to your car as soon as you bolt it on so now your plate is a 3.5 to 5.5 plate

i been wanting to try the lrc block with a 6
stock anti squat insert with a 5 up insert

The 8 hole conical are option parts.

You need to consult the hudy setup guide


wheels closer together
more rear traction
weight shifted to back

wheels farther apart
slightly more steering
better stability
weight shifted to front

So to move the rear hubs forward will tighten up the rear.

Thanks, so just so I got this right...the LRC Toe Plate will add 1 Deg squat? and since I would be using the 2.5 - 4.5 inner squat it would then be increased to 3.5 - 4.5. This is assuming I would be using the 0 insert? Sorry for the slowness, still trying to get a good understanding and a good starting place...

Thanks again...

[QUOTE=rcq;10204491]How do you can drive this buggy with hubs forward. With it buggy rear end is very slipping for me. And I use thinner swaybar for front end and tighter swaybar for rear end. When I try thinner foward swaybar I get more stearing on high speed.
What you could surgest for me for better handing for rear end of buggy. Now I run with 5 5 3 diff oil, maybe 5 5 1 would be better?[/QUOTE

Sway bars are a minor adjustment, but if you want to mess with them you need to remember how weight transfer works. More weight transfer =more traction and less weight transfer = less traction. If your going to run a fatter sway bar on the rear of the buggy, your reducing weight transfer which reduces the rear traction. Thin= more weight transfer which = more traction. You would be better off switching those bars around, however remember sway bars are a fine tuning option. Start with tires, springs, and rear toe in. Running softer rear springs or increasing your rear toein is going to have a more drastic change on your traction. Also focus on one end of the car. If you need more or less rear traction, make adjustments on the rear of the car. If you need more or less traction in the front, make adustmens to the front. I recommend picking up the XXX Setup Guide. It explains the physics behind the changes you need to make.

0123 are front inserts only
456 are for the rear
i see if i can get jared to post the chart or some can help you lost me

This should be the insert positions to obtain the rear toe and ant-squat.

Toe:
4 in = 2 degree toe
5 in= 2.5 toe
6 centered is 3 deg
5 out = 3.5 toe
6 out= 4 toe

Anti:
4 down = 0 anti
5 down= . 5 anti
6 centered = 1 anti
5 up is 1.5 anti
4 up = 2 anti


2.5 -4.5 option anti-squatplate:
4 down = 2.5° anti
5 down = 3° anti
6 center = 3.5° anti
5 up = 4° anti
4 up = 4.5° anti

thank's so much!!! Sorry for confusing you chop, but I think I finally got it.

ok just rember when you use the lr rear block it makes 1 deg of squat in the car. so take note into that.

thanks mr weber for the insert list

is there a parts list anywhere of what would be needed to convert a nitro version 811 to the BE version? I have 2 complete rollers and a ton of spares, looking to convert 1 to a BE.

it cost as much to almost buy a car

i find that very hard to believe considering it has the same suspension, steering, shocks, diffs, etc as the nitro buggy