really now
you need new ring pinnion center diff mount chassic batt boxs. pinnion body wing mount wing. new center drive shafts and cuplers new rear hubs and shafts and dust boots

trust me it add up fast

http://www.serpent.com/file.php?FileID=5208

Just a quick rundown by no means a complete list

Motor mount - 63
Chassis - 100
chassis brace - 12
battery tray - 53
battery foam - 8
diff cover - 6
servo arm - 11
pinion - 11
body - 25
$289

For another 220 bucks you can get the BE kit, which would give you 3 complete diffs, shocks front and rear, driveshafts front and rear, all the a-arms and assorted linkages, steering linkages, shock towers, bearings, screws, wing and wing mount, ect.

Since they want 70 bucks for a complete diff, those 3 alone would cover the cost of upgrade. I would personally get the kit and keep the spares on hand or sell your old buggy.

the ebuggy shafts rear hubs and a few more on his list are need it.

i rather have a fresh car imo

Unless you want to go this route!

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcm811

Dan,
I was able to put some time on the buggy today. So far I am very impressed. The man I purchased it from had the completely wrong setup on it. It had very stiff springs in the rear with thick oil and softer springs in the front with thin oil. The car had way too much steering and was very loose in the rear. Almost impossible to accelerate out of a corner without breaking the rear end loose. It must have been very frustrating for him to drive, probably the major reason he sold it.

I softened up the rear springs to purple and stiffened the front springs to blue. Thickened the front oil to 450 and thinned the rear to 375. Im guessing he had 300 in the front and 550 in the rear. I also set the ride height so the bones were level in the front and just below level in the rear and the car was almost dialed. There was absolutely no shortage of rear traction and I had a huge smile on my face the whole practice session. As the car still has a crazy amount of front steering, I am going to continue to make small changes until I can see a slight push coming out of the corners. I will post my findings and compare notes with you. Don't send me pm's on your setups. Post them up here so people can learn from your expert setup advice. By the way, the web bladders were perfect. Thanks for that tip.

I think its much more than just purchasing the sum of the parts for a conversion. It's the new straight drive line, weight balance, and geometry that make the 811BE special. Your never going to get that out of your converted nitro. Just sayin

well actually i would if i used all the correct parts, which is the idea. I am not looking to do some aftermarket conversion. I have 2 buggies, 1 has maybe 3 weekends on it, I also have spare diffs, spare shocks, towers, arms, everything pretty much

Finally got the car built....

+ YouTube Video

Looks sweet, good job. Thanks for posting the video. Looks like a monster truck on that track.

Just curious what batteries, motor size, and pinon you guys are running and what kind of run times your getting during race day?

I'm running the Nanotech 6.0 with a 1700kv Tekin system and a 17t pinon. I haven't raced it yet, but during practice sessions I'm getting around 18 minutes. Does anyone have better run times than that or a setup that might get closer to 25 minutes?

Also, has anyone notched out the back of the chassis so its quick and easy to remove the rear hing plate without removing the diff case screws from the bottom? That was going to be my next mod, but thought I would check just to make sure there aren't any chassis or diff case issues I haven't read about yet?

Thanks.

I am using GM 5800 60C. LRP dynamic 2000kv. and standard kit pinion. I thlnk we played with it all day long havent tested on race track yet. waiting for sunny weather and dry track. LRP ESC doesnt like water

It really boils down to what YOU want to do! If making it a BE is what you want by all means I think you should. I do agree that for the cost you should just build the new kit or just get the RC Monster conversion. I have both cars and the RC Monster conversion is really really good, the car handles great! The BE is just a different animal, and I really like it better. It is better balanced which in my mind keeps it very stable allowing it to be pushed harder than the conversion. The BE launches off jumps and flies very straight and is overall a better car than the conversion IMHO. Anyone looking for a converted one hit me up!

i would like to take the time to welcome big ron to the race team. he had a big part in helping me get the car dialed in.

Does anyone have the link where people are posting their setups? Not the Serpent website either.

i will have a set up posted here tmo
that should work indoor and outdoor. the team manger turning it into a sheet tonight as we speak

What is Battery dimensions?