That's normal. I found that the spur gears are not all the same when it comes to clutch basket fitment. Some would be nice and snug, and others a little loose. As for the clutch pads, they still need to be dglazed every once in a while, or run Garodiscs.

Ok thanks

You could try this if your looking to protect your chassis. http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...otective-Sheet

You need to limit te uptravel of the shocks with the gray clips. The shocks have entirely too much up travel. If they compress too much, they bund up in the out drives causing the to bend, and possibly damaging the diff bushing that the outdrives go out of. I have 4-5 mm of clips to limit the shock. Hope this helps.

here are pictures of the sct truck that i am hopefully buying today.

http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...80/SC10%20SCT/

thats a 2wd..

Hey All! Been out of the loop for quite some time as I had to pack up and move to a new address. I'm way behind on what has been going on and haven't raced in like 2+ months... Hoping to get some set-up recommendations... I have the following to finally install together:

Mac the Knife Clutch Basket
Garodisks
Pinned Shaft

My question is, what combo do I use for the MTK Clutch Basket & a Pinned Shaft (Garodisks, HD Pads, Stock Pads) for out door 1/8th Scale type Tracks with rather big jumps to clear? When its hot out the tracks gets dry and dusty... achieving good grip is tough. When it rains during the week and we get a break from the weather its loamy and traction is quite good. Any suggestions, tips or recommendations? I certainly would appreciate some feedback...

Thanks Guys!

i know its a 2wd.

Dont pin the shaft with the basket. Do one or the other. Pin shaft works best for the large loose tracks, as it locks the pulley going to the front so the slipper on the inside of the slipper does nothing.

However if you have garodisks with the basket there is more grip than any AE and will allow the slipper to work as intended.

I would just run the basket with the garodisks, you wont have a problem.

For a base setup go to AE's website and pick a pro setup that best suits your track and go from there. Shim up your upper link ball studs on the tower, 5mm in front and maybe 2mm in the rear. If the rear is loose try to lengthen the rear upper link, it will make the rear of the truck "dead or lazy" and calm it down.

The argument will end up being; this is the SC104x4 thread...but cool.

i feel i am getting a very good deal on the truck with what all comes with it. it will be ready to run when i buy it. all i gotta buy is a battery charger.

yes, when the arms are extended down fully. I thought about shaving the arm where they hit, but they only do it when there is no weight on the front. The only time that happens is when the truck is in the air, in the corner on the inner side, or under full throttle. When those happen the rubbing of the 2 is not an issue, since steering isnt being used at that moment.

Mine works great, pinned and basket. with HD pads in basket. just set your slipper correctly.

Coyote , I don't believe you have special arms and hard to find , that one batch, ect ...

I removed a ft arm off yesterday from my ride

with


many , many moons of racing time on it...


Scott & I examine carefully ...


No see any wrap.....

If you ever race on really abrasive track ( Cactus) ,skid plates are a must have .....

BTW

Can I expect to see you attending the N/w Shoot-Out at P-Town ?