SC10 4x4 Thread
Sounds like 30k is generally liked and used, so I guess I'll go that route. Thanks guys!
If you are interested in getting this truck please make sure you understand that all the after-market parts and changes are not necessary. I have been running my truck box stock with the exception of HT pad/vented slipper, 20k front, 5k rear diff, and sway bars front and rear. Most of my racing is done on an indoor track but I have also run it at a couple outdoor races. Indoors, medium to high traction clay to outdoor loose to medium traction the truck runs just fine and is easy to drive. While I like the idea of many of the parts that racers have come up with, I don't want racers who may be interested in the truck shy away because they think they have to spend more $$$ and re-engineer a truck that is already capable out of the box.
Happy New Year everyone



Happy New Year everyone



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Last edited by bcrazy; 01-05-2012 at 10:15 PM.
If you are interested in getting this truck please make sure you understand that all the after-market parts and changes are not necessary. I have been running my truck box stock with the exception of HT pad/vented slipper, 20k front, 5k rear diff, and sway bars front and rear. Most of my racing is done on an indoor track but I have also run it at a couple outdoor races. Indoors, medium to high traction clay to outdoor loose to medium traction the truck runs just fine and is easy to drive. While I like the idea of many of the parts that racers have come up with, I don't want racers who may be interested in the truck shy away because they think they have to spend more $$$ and re-engineer a truck that is already capable out of the box.
Happy New Year everyone
Happy New Year everyone

Happy New Year...
I agree that the truck is club level racer as it is. We could all use more drive time to improve our times than spending hundreds of dollars in option parts. BUT for most of us it is the "other" part of the hobby we enjoy. Swaybars you need and if your track has larger jump sections than your you would want Garodisc slipper pads. Carbon tube is nice to back your belt tension off without slipping. The rest is fluff unless you want to stay on the same lap of Ryan or Kody when they come race your track. 
Happy New Year...

Happy New Year...
Everything and nothing is needed.
Edit: I still don't believe I would be destroying the Losi's on my blown out 8th Scale Track just 'tuned' - without the time and money i've put into my Truck.
yup, an out of the box SC10 will get owned by an out of the box losi no matter how it is tuned. with that being said adding Garodisc,sway bars and the basic tuning will get it close if wheeled properly. But as Cameron said, you start playing around with national level racers your gonna have to step it up. I guess it all depends on where and whom you are racing every weekend. I think its obvious that i like to squeeze tenths out of my cars, but then again we have a VERY fast group of local SC racers around here.
Brian, your truck looks great! it funny how that losi kept trying to "losi" you every chance he could!
we normally get at least 15 trucks at a small race but normally its around 20+, with that many trucks the game is a little different because you have to get into the A main, hence the squeezing of tenths!

we normally get at least 15 trucks at a small race but normally its around 20+, with that many trucks the game is a little different because you have to get into the A main, hence the squeezing of tenths!
No, it needs to be 1000g. 500g will be maxed all the time.
For reference:
For reference:
I put in a Novak 6.5 540 silver can motor in it to try this weekend. The Ballistic 550 weighed in at 290 grams. The 540 weighed in at like 160 grams!
Wheel weights with a 540 are as follows:
LF 557 RF 557
LR 654 RR 661
2429 grams total weight
45.6% Front
54.4% Rear
49.9% crossweight
I'm only off by like two grams to get the cross weight perfect, and I didn't bother to readjust the shocks between now and the last time I weighted it. It gained almost 2mm of rear ride height by taking the 550 out...frankly I was suprised that the front wheel weights went down 30 grams, and the math says the truck lost like 200 grams of overall weight, but I remember the 540 only weighing in at like 160 grams (leaving 80 grams difference). I shortened up some wires, my guess right now is I hadn't dumped all the dirt out of it or something when I weighted it last.
Hope this is useful.
Wheel weights with a 540 are as follows:
LF 557 RF 557
LR 654 RR 661
2429 grams total weight
45.6% Front
54.4% Rear
49.9% crossweight
I'm only off by like two grams to get the cross weight perfect, and I didn't bother to readjust the shocks between now and the last time I weighted it. It gained almost 2mm of rear ride height by taking the 550 out...frankly I was suprised that the front wheel weights went down 30 grams, and the math says the truck lost like 200 grams of overall weight, but I remember the 540 only weighing in at like 160 grams (leaving 80 grams difference). I shortened up some wires, my guess right now is I hadn't dumped all the dirt out of it or something when I weighted it last.
Hope this is useful.
I agree that the truck is club level racer as it is. We could all use more drive time to improve our times than spending hundreds of dollars in option parts. BUT for most of us it is the "other" part of the hobby we enjoy. Swaybars you need and if your track has larger jump sections than yours you would want Garodisc slipper pads. Carbon tube is nice to back your belt tension off without slipping. The rest is fluff unless you want to stay on the same lap of Ryan or Kody when they come race your track. 
Happy New Year...

Happy New Year...
@ TRCR ?
All that kool stuff is highly recommended.....
Hey guys,
Currently at my local track I am having a problem with my rear end packing up through the whoop section. Im running 37.5 with yellow in the front and 35 and yellow in the rear as my shock setup. I will go through the whoops and right at the end the rear end unloads and bucks the car to a front flip. I was going to put a looser oil in the shocks so they unload faster but wanted your guys take on it.
Thank you
Currently at my local track I am having a problem with my rear end packing up through the whoop section. Im running 37.5 with yellow in the front and 35 and yellow in the rear as my shock setup. I will go through the whoops and right at the end the rear end unloads and bucks the car to a front flip. I was going to put a looser oil in the shocks so they unload faster but wanted your guys take on it.
Thank you



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