Change your front end alignment to 0 camber and -1* toe in, go with 30k front GREASE (kyosho makes excellent dif grease) and put yellow springs up front. you can also make the front of the truck a mm or so higher than the rear.


On the difs leaking and shimming here is what i have come up with: i came across some Viton "X" rings that are slightly thicker than the stock ones, when i get a chance i will get the specs for them and can offer them on my site if there is enough demand (which seems like there is!!). since there is no stress on the front dif i only use the X rings and removed all of the shims (spider and sun) so the front is very smooth and efficient. i also came across this liquid teflon fluid that is alchohol based so when it dries it leaves a very smooth film i use this on the outdrives and on the brass bushings. On that note, if your outdrives are already wobbling you are not going to be able to make it go away, once the bushings are worn there is no possible way of shimming to make it go away. Buy new housings and shim them from the get go. On the rear i use the same X rings but also install the stock size shims on top of the X ring and also the stock shims for the spider ( although i would like to find extra shims to double up on the spider shims). with these Xrings there is ZERO leakage!! just pulled my difs down a few days ago after a mth and they were both still full!! And we ALL know that never happens! At this time i had 10k mugen fluid in the front and 5k kyosho grease in the rear. i have become a fan of dif grease here lately, to me it is more consistent and more resistent to leaking. Unfortunately i cant find 10k grease in stock so i mixed 15 and 5 together so it should be somewhere around 10 the kyosho grease can be purchased at www.rckenon.com

Marcus do you have a setup table to dial.in the front toe?

no i measure the front of the tires and the back of the tires with some wheel blanks that i machined. i have found with the "slop" it pretty much impossible to get perfect with all of the rod end slack.

Oh ok, I am sure you will notice my toe is off when and if my truck gets there LoL.
Check my sig out LoL.

just ordered the reflex saddle conversion, what do you guys think about their saddle conversion, is it comparable to the b44 setup people are doing? i know it has a little weight on it which i think will help out. just want to hear if people who have this on or have seen it opinions.


thanks, D

Derbrylac, the only people that will be able to give you feedback is our team drivers, as the parts are still a pre-order. They should be arriving within a week or two though. I will, however send you one of our production samples as they sent me 10 or so sets, of which I have 1 left. These are IDENTICAL to the production items, just packaging will be a bit different.

What I can tell you is I have run both. We actually prototyped our conversion with the AE parts. When we noticed that the truck ran better with the weight on it, we decided to make the cradles out of brass instead of aluminum or CF. The truck drives very similar with both, but our conversion is much easier to use, it is better looking, adds a little bit of chassis rigidity and costs pretty much the same that the B44 Conversion does.

Some tips:
If you are running a 550 motor, and the speedo on the opposite side, only about 14g (1/2 oz) need to be added to the slipper side to balance the truck. If you are running a 540 (I run a TEKIN 4600) add about 1.5-2oz to the motor side to get the truck balanced. Overall I run my truck at 6lbs 3.5oz. This seems to be the ideal weight for our track to optimize grip and speed.

pm sent

I have raced my 4x4 for many , many moons.....

I rebuilt the diff's just a few days ago and found ....



The diff's had leaked , but half of the oil still in there...

so if your leaking oil bad ?

replace those oil seals on the out drives & diff case...

LOL!! change that to RCshox edition, i am closing my mantisworx site down next week.

I'm going to get the upgrades in order, diff included, etc etc blah blah, tune it for our track change, Pick Cameron's brain about his setup (again) and if worse comes to worse, maybe I'll send it down with some cash.

RC Repairs and hours at work are killing "play time". It's a great thing, and i'm glad, but holy crap... the repairs! piles of cars in my room.
(and after christmas it's only going to get worse)

I haven't had 'MY' Truck on my table in 4 weeks.

been working for 6 or 7 days now on the 4x4 , set-up is all done ...


Ordered ....

lite weight top shafts
lite idler gear shafts
lite out drives
Team Ae shocks
Blue wheel hex's
Blue Ti Rods
shinny or chrome dog bones
coated suspension pins
Blue shock pins
Ti shock mounts

Hold on!! Stop the press!! Did I miss something here on this??

BTW, drove my truck for the first time last night...Never driven an electric car in my life,,,always 1/8 nitro buggy. And Im impressed to far! Truck corners better than anything Ive ever drove! It jumps like an assbump, but i think some of that is me learnig how to drive and electric car and needing some weight bias to the left side... I changed a few things and its pretty fast now,,,but I think its gona be faster as I/it improves. Here's my set-up:

32.5wt fr shock 1.2 piston 1/2 rebound w/bladders yellow spring
middle on tower, inside on arm
30wt rr 1.2 piston 0 rebound w/bladders blue spring
middle on tower, outside on arm
20k fr diff (all I had to start with)
5k rr diff
blue fr and rr sway bar
1 ballstud washer up front
front clicker locked
belt tension 3 and 3
slipper - clutch basket w/ 3 garodisc
ride height- arms level
Esc- RX8
Motor- Pro4 4000kv
gearing- 13p/62t spur

Had a idea of trying a "shorty" pack in this truck. It actually fit perfectly side to side in the chassis. I attached a link to some pictures of the truck. How do you guys think it will handle compared to a stick pack?

http://s1192.photobucket.com/albums/...Picture004.jpg

Will you make 7 minutes for a main with that shorty pack?