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Old 12-17-2011 | 11:33 PM
  #12691  
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What's everyone weighing in at?

I'm at 6lbs. 7oz. Ready to race w/ body.

That's with the 3800 castle, rx8, nanotech 6.0 stick pack, and 5.5oz of ballast.

Think that's getting too heavy?
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Old 12-17-2011 | 11:38 PM
  #12692  
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Originally Posted by Makarrov
Ill start with my set up

-Tekin pro4 4000kv
-mmp w/bec
-62/12 32 pitch gearing
-clutch basket w/ garodisks
-20/20 pulleys, belt tension 3/3
-30k/7k diff oils
-I dont have the pin mod
-clicker is full time 4wd


There are a couple things that i cant figure out. First, my motor seems to run hotter than most that Ive seen in this thread, after 10m the motor is sitting around 175 degrees. Ive checked for binding and cant really seem to find any but the truck definately doesnt feel as "loose" as other sc10s ive driven at my track.

Second, I seem to chew up spur gears like crazy. I ran the truck for 6 months or so with the same spur that came with the kit but recently something changed and sometimes ill go through 1-2 spurs in a night. Ive had guys at the track check my gear mesh and it seems to be fine. I thought maybe my slipper wasnt slipping enough to i backed it off. No change. I took the basket off and replaced the garodisks with 1 hd pad and a standard just to see if that stops the problem but it didnt.

Third/Fourth, my truck makes this high pitch screeching noise on hard launches and on power out of corners. I sounds like the slipper but its MUCH louder than any other sc10 ive ever seen. you can hear it over every other sct and 1/8th scale on the track. It also make the knocking/clicking noise ive read about in this thread and I cant seem to track it down. Ive shimmed the diff and checked the assembly of the gear box, diff, idler gear and top shaft. All that looks right.

Whatever the issue is seems to be coming from the rear gearbox area, I just cant see anything wrong.
Sounds like a motor bearing to me...
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Old 12-18-2011 | 12:12 AM
  #12693  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Hey guys, need some setup advice. I need alot more traction. My truck is loose coming out of corners like it is over rotating and also on sweeping turns my truck wants to spin out. It feels like I have to drive this truck like a 2wd buggy right know.

I also think it could be my chassis brace. Does taking away some of the flex have an effect on the traction or handling of the vehicle?
try a thicker rear diff fluid, Im at 10,000 now (15,000 front) and my truck works great on our current layout ( Raceworld Raceway)
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Old 12-18-2011 | 12:35 AM
  #12694  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
Hey guys, need some setup advice. I need alot more traction. My truck is loose coming out of corners like it is over rotating and also on sweeping turns my truck wants to spin out. It feels like I have to drive this truck like a 2wd buggy right know.

I also think it could be my chassis brace. Does taking away some of the flex have an effect on the traction or handling of the vehicle?
Are you running the same tire as everyone else on that track?

Try moving the bottom of the shocks furthest out. What is your ride height? What sways are you running?

Try dropping rear like 2-3mm and see if that helps any.

Do one mod at a time then take it out to see if it helps/hurt
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Old 12-18-2011 | 12:37 AM
  #12695  
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Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
I will not dispute the performance gain.

I will dispute it being 'better' than lead weights that can 'pop off'.

At the price it sits at for what it does and what you can do that attains the same results. 50.00 of those dollars "IS" Bling.

I have lead weight packed in around those ribs in the chassis, that I can't even pry out, and a chassis brace for 15.00+5.00(lead) = 20.00 performance increase over 110.00. This setup does 'not' account for torsional chassis flex and that is the only thing Exotek can claim to fame(besides looking damn good)
Machining something out of a chunk of aluminum isn't cheap, I don't think it's because of bling factor. This is why car rims are so dang expensive.

I believe that you will like the chassis.
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Old 12-18-2011 | 01:33 AM
  #12696  
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I have learned

though many , many moons of racing r/c cars ........


The AE "Team"


Knows best how to make your ride HI-PO ..

So if your going to spend $$$ , look first at what they are doing with their rides.


Then consider your next investment in your quest for superior performance for your Rc10Sc4x4 ....

Last edited by Wild Cherry; 12-18-2011 at 01:46 AM.
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Old 12-18-2011 | 03:38 AM
  #12697  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Machining something out of a chunk of aluminum isn't cheap, I don't think it's because of bling factor. This is why car rims are so dang expensive.

I believe that you will like the chassis.
I don't contest the cost involved in machining out of Billet aluminum. I contest the average racer blowing that money on a performance upgrade he will not be able to make use of over a chassis brace and some lead tucked low.

I'm 100% sure i'll love the chassis. That was never my point.
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Old 12-18-2011 | 04:28 AM
  #12698  
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Default Sc10 gearing

Originally Posted by Makarrov
Ill start with my set up

-Tekin pro4 4000kv
-mmp w/bec
-62/12 32 pitch gearing
-clutch basket w/ garodisks
-20/20 pulleys, belt tension 3/3
-30k/7k diff oils
-I dont have the pin mod
-clicker is full time 4wd

I think your under geared. Sweet spot for the 4000kv Pro4 seems to be between 15-17. The smaller the track the lower the gear. Under gearing can result in heat issues as well. I'd try starting with a 15 and see what you get. 175 for the Pro4 is not an issue if the performance is where you want it.

As for chewing up spur gears and that high pitch screeching noise, I'd recommend you loosen up your gear mesh. The first time I bench tested my setup it made a ton of noise, so I opened up my mesh and problem solved. Have you rechecked the front diff case housing? You can't over tighten those three bolts or you'll bing up the front end.
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Old 12-18-2011 | 05:10 AM
  #12699  
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If thats true about team ae knowiing the best setups/option parts, then why are their drivers on here looking for advice instead of giving it??? And i dont believe their setup sheats are accurate at all
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Old 12-18-2011 | 07:50 AM
  #12700  
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Default Exotek chassis

What stores are selling for best price? I have googled and can only find Exotek website for $109.
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Old 12-18-2011 | 07:56 AM
  #12701  
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Stormer hobbies had them for $99 which about the same.
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Old 12-18-2011 | 08:16 AM
  #12702  
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I see stormer has them on order.. Any others?
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Old 12-18-2011 | 08:54 AM
  #12703  
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Be happy when I hear news of a FT version. Until then, I will just be content with my 2wd and watch everyone else sink serious $ in their rigs. Associated WILL get it right in the FT version, just watch.
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Old 12-18-2011 | 09:20 AM
  #12704  
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Originally Posted by JLinney
Be happy when I hear news of a FT version. Until then, I will just be content with my 2wd and watch everyone else sink serious $ in their rigs. Associated WILL get it right in the FT version, just watch.
Out of the box the truck right already. All these mods are just for preference.

The EA factory parts that are out now are just for bling.
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Old 12-18-2011 | 09:28 AM
  #12705  
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Originally Posted by JLinney
Be happy when I hear news of a FT version. Until then, I will just be content with my 2wd and watch everyone else sink serious $ in their rigs. Associated WILL get it right in the FT version, just watch.
Originally Posted by jmoneym
Out of the box the truck right already. All these mods are just for preference.

The EA factory parts that are out now are just for bling.
IMO, both of you are wrong. If a ft ever comes out, it will most likely have copies of 3rd party parts you see all over the place to get it right.
These 3rd party parts are needed for the truck. Even Cav needs the 3rd party chassis brace and clutch basket.
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