Ive torn this thing apart so many times looking for this problem Ive gotten used to the tear down lol.

I just bought and installed the diff rebuilt kit last week, the noise was still there last night when I ran the truck. Tonights project is to install the new top shaft, idler gears, diff case, belt, pullies and gear box that are sitting on my bench... Hopefully one of these things fixes it.

look at the bolts that go in the gear case. not to long and hit the diff gear

wow man, i hated doin mine lol, took a good long afternoon but I was able to find some other things that I needed to look at in fix in the process.

That's weird, Did you double shim?. Check to see if you have a lot of belt dust. Check your motor mount plate. Something isn't meshing right (obviously)

I will not dispute the performance gain.

I will dispute it being 'better' than lead weights that can 'pop off'.

At the price it sits at for what it does and what you can do that attains the same results. 50.00 of those dollars "IS" Bling.

I have lead weight packed in around those ribs in the chassis, that I can't even pry out, and a chassis brace for 15.00+5.00(lead) = 20.00 performance increase over 110.00. This setup does 'not' account for torsional chassis flex and that is the only thing Exotek can claim to fame(besides looking damn good)

I've tried to put lead in those slots but I can't get 2 of them in. how did you do it?

I put all of them in, you may have to push hard, they slid in perfectly, but it looks so ghettoriffic. So glad I got that Exotek.

have you driven with the exotech? i have done it both ways and its far from being the same no matter how much weight you add or what braces you add. how did you put weight on the bottom of the chassis? you will not get the same results with lead and braces, its just simply not true. I think the opinion from someone that has had both would be worth something!!!! but what do i know LOL!!

Thanks I'm more confident with my intuition of 540 indoor ( especially high bite)and 550 outdoor.. I'm running the 550 tomorrow because I didn't have the proper spur. it's gonna be my first race with the truck and I will test with the 540 during the week.. I did read the posts about shimming inside ball studs and camber link but can you or someone please tell me why I would do this and what to expect if I did.. I'm basically going to be trying to dial truck in as day goes.. Thanks

I got a settlement from a car accident finally. At the new year, I will purchase this glorified hunk of metal and try it. Then I won't have to listen to experience over physics again.

Stop making excuses , you know you wanted one.

I totally do. It's sexy. I admitted that many moons ago!

My argument is the cost≠performance over my current setup that physics will prove is very very similar (until such a time you are competing with National Drivers where 2-5% matters.)


I keep getting misunderstood as "it's shit. don't waste your money".

I totally agree. If it was priced at $50 i would try it. Not to say it's not worth it. This hobby we love trying new things.

Fact is racers think cause they add parts going to make them faster fact is working on your driving and throttle control does.

I see guys run and get this and that still suck.

When I rebuilt the diffs I used two of the shims that go under the sun gear.

Off to start the tear down.

Hey guys, need some setup advice. I need alot more traction. My truck is loose coming out of corners like it is over rotating and also on sweeping turns my truck wants to spin out. It feels like I have to drive this truck like a 2wd buggy right know.

I also think it could be my chassis brace. Does taking away some of the flex have an effect on the traction or handling of the vehicle?

Chad,

It would help if you can post your setup. That way we can make recommendations on what you're currently using.

Mark