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Old 12-14-2011 | 04:11 PM
  #12541  
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Originally Posted by BlueGlowBoy
Front and rear arms are a good idea....not because they "break" but because just about everyone who has run one of these for 2-3 months has had the arms sag noticably.

I've beat the snot out of my truck all summer long (2x weekly, 5 qualifiers, 2 mains/week) on a motocross style race track with HUGE jumps (15 feet up, and if you can kill the parachute effect of the body, 70-90 feet long) and with MANY upside down landings, and cartwheels, the only thing I have BROKEN is the bar that holds the body posts and one body post. (The body clip tore right through....but again, after landing upside down an average of once per lap!)

I've seen a rear shock tower break, but again, it was a new driver like myself landing poorly on the huge jumps.
+1 I've hit solid steel poles (body first long story) at full speed hard enough to cave in the lexan like a cart hitting a minivan. popped out the body and threw it back on the track and kept on truckin.

It's kind of a shame to call this thing a "basher" being such a great truck, but it can out bash a slash anyday, just need waterproof electronics if you plan on getting it nasty.
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Old 12-14-2011 | 04:17 PM
  #12542  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
You are overthinking it lol. You can adjust tension once you have wheels on the car and roll it. But does it move a little or not at all?
alright thats what i wanted to hear lol the belt does move a little now
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Old 12-14-2011 | 04:20 PM
  #12543  
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Originally Posted by Edumakated
This is probably one of the easiest trucks to work on imho as long as you have a power driver. The nice thing is nearly every screw is a 2.5mm cap head. You rarely ever have to change tips for anything. It just looks intimidating until you learn how it fits together.
Yea I think it was cyote that posted the "5 min diff removal" about a hundred pages back.

The key is that you need to properly disassemble to get to certain areas since most of the parts key together you can't just remove a couple of bolts then bend and stretch the parts you want to get out.
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Old 12-14-2011 | 04:30 PM
  #12544  
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Originally Posted by blakelenk521
Can somebody tell me why the front bones on my truck are bending? If i get the factory team shiny bones will it prevent it? thank guys and hope i get a responce
Stop hitting stuff

you may have too much front uptravel. did you remove the front shock boots?

shiny bones will not help, we need to find out the real cause
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Old 12-14-2011 | 04:46 PM
  #12545  
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Has anyone else bent their rear topshaft? What is the cause of this?
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Old 12-14-2011 | 05:34 PM
  #12546  
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Ive read every page in this forum and have been reading it daily since early september. One thing i havent seen to many people running 1.3 pistons. I have them in mine now and im gonna give them a shot this weekend. I stayed with the same weight oils and i changed nothing else on the truck so i can really tell what the pistons actually did for me on the lap counter.

Has anyone else tried the 1.3 and what was the results?
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Old 12-14-2011 | 05:38 PM
  #12547  
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Originally Posted by Nitro Herb
Ive read every page in this forum and have been reading it daily since early september. One thing i havent seen to many people running 1.3 pistons. I have them in mine now and im gonna give them a shot this weekend. I stayed with the same weight oils and i changed nothing else on the truck so i can really tell what the pistons actually did for me on the lap counter.

Has anyone else tried the 1.3 and what was the results?
judging by my sales, the majority are running two stage, they simply work better especially on this truck.
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Old 12-14-2011 | 05:48 PM
  #12548  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
judging by my sales, the majority are running two stage, they simply work better especially on this truck.
I may try a set in the future. For now i am curious how the 1.3 are gonna effect things. I am currently running on an indoor med traction, dusty, and a little bumpy track, next summer i will e running on large rough 1/8 scale tracks. I know when i went to the larger 1.3x8 pistons on my RC8 it really made it feel plush and stable through the rough stuff.

I am gonna order up one of your ackerman bars in the near future for sure.
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Old 12-14-2011 | 05:56 PM
  #12549  
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Originally Posted by a.seffrood
alright thats what i wanted to hear lol the belt does move a little now
Ok cool
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Old 12-14-2011 | 06:35 PM
  #12550  
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Originally Posted by heavyjeffd
So I've read that the F/R diffs can be quite a chore to remove, anyone have any input on that? I kind of looked through the manual and it didn't seem that bad, but I'm sure those of you that are avid racers and are rebuilding your diffs often can chime in on what short cuts or tips you might have.

Thanks!
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
Okay. Here's my Method for quick 5 minute breakdowns to get to the diffs. Hope this helps some of you guys.

Quick Diff Removal Guide:
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5

You may try this and call me crazy, but once you can easily pop on and off those CVAs. This is literally a 5 minute diff removal. And you don't have parts strung out all over. Only 4 pieces. or "chunks" I should say. Lemme know if you guys have questions.

I got lazy and didn't want to do a video. Mostly because I have no one to hold the Cellphone Camera.
Coyoteslash posted this on page 707. His method worked great for me.
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Old 12-14-2011 | 06:55 PM
  #12551  
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
Do you guys prefer the 550s or 540 4 poles? I am currently running the Novak 550 5.5 HV and seems to have plenty on power. Just wondering if I am missing out on something as a lot of guys are running the Tekin pro4s and castle 1410 3800.
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
The 4p motors have way more power , not necessarily the
best motor though .

Your motor is just enough , if you need more ?

Dail in some boost ,
been using quite a bit of the boost with the same motor ...
Anyone else have any input on this....
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Old 12-14-2011 | 07:11 PM
  #12552  
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Originally Posted by Resqnu
Anyone else have any input on this....
If you are running a 550 can and its working fine no need to really upgrade. I am currently running a 5.5 550 can 2 pole. Its not the motor that makes you any faster its all in the driver. Even though the extra speed is nice
I plan on trying a pro 4 in the future but I doubt it will make me any faster.
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Old 12-14-2011 | 07:28 PM
  #12553  
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Originally Posted by Chad Smith
If you are running a 550 can and its working fine no need to really upgrade. I am currently running a 5.5 550 can 2 pole. Its not the motor that makes you any faster its all in the driver. Even though the extra speed is nice
I plan on trying a pro 4 in the future but I doubt it will make me any faster.
I agree totally about driving ability. I just came over from a nitro buggy with a mid range nova engine. The 550 5.5 seems to be enough power for 1/8 scale track I run. I will be running an indoor track this winter so i will see. Just wondered if the 4 poles were a better motor for this truck. I am pleased with my current setup, mainly planning for the future if my 550 bit the dust. I purchased the truck with motor used from someone I know, but i dont "really" know how its been run before me. If you don't overheat the motor, how long should the motor last?
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Old 12-14-2011 | 07:33 PM
  #12554  
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[QUOTE=Resqnu;10039344]Coyoteslash posted this on page 707. His method worked great for me.[/QUOT


Man that looks way easyier to get to the diffs on it maybe il rethink my choice of getting the SC10 4X 4. Thats just a maybe

Now i noticed on the manuel it doesnt mention if you should mount the servo horn at 90@ degress or a little to the left or right ?

Last edited by tc5 man; 12-14-2011 at 07:51 PM.
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Old 12-14-2011 | 07:37 PM
  #12555  
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Originally Posted by JayL
Stop hitting stuff

you may have too much front uptravel. did you remove the front shock boots?

shiny bones will not help, we need to find out the real cause
no i didnt remove the shock boots. How would that make a differance? and i also checked the travel and it doesnt bind on anything at all haha
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