SC10 4x4 Thread
Front and rear arms are a good idea....not because they "break" but because just about everyone who has run one of these for 2-3 months has had the arms sag noticably.
I've beat the snot out of my truck all summer long (2x weekly, 5 qualifiers, 2 mains/week) on a motocross style race track with HUGE jumps (15 feet up, and if you can kill the parachute effect of the body, 70-90 feet long) and with MANY upside down landings, and cartwheels, the only thing I have BROKEN is the bar that holds the body posts and one body post. (The body clip tore right through....but again, after landing upside down an average of once per lap!)
I've seen a rear shock tower break, but again, it was a new driver like myself landing poorly on the huge jumps.
I've beat the snot out of my truck all summer long (2x weekly, 5 qualifiers, 2 mains/week) on a motocross style race track with HUGE jumps (15 feet up, and if you can kill the parachute effect of the body, 70-90 feet long) and with MANY upside down landings, and cartwheels, the only thing I have BROKEN is the bar that holds the body posts and one body post. (The body clip tore right through....but again, after landing upside down an average of once per lap!)
I've seen a rear shock tower break, but again, it was a new driver like myself landing poorly on the huge jumps.
It's kind of a shame to call this thing a "basher" being such a great truck, but it can out bash a slash anyday, just need waterproof electronics if you plan on getting it nasty.
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The key is that you need to properly disassemble to get to certain areas since most of the parts key together you can't just remove a couple of bolts then bend and stretch the parts you want to get out.

you may have too much front uptravel. did you remove the front shock boots?
shiny bones will not help, we need to find out the real cause
Ive read every page in this forum and have been reading it daily since early september. One thing i havent seen to many people running 1.3 pistons. I have them in mine now and im gonna give them a shot this weekend. I stayed with the same weight oils and i changed nothing else on the truck so i can really tell what the pistons actually did for me on the lap counter.
Has anyone else tried the 1.3 and what was the results?
Has anyone else tried the 1.3 and what was the results?
Ive read every page in this forum and have been reading it daily since early september. One thing i havent seen to many people running 1.3 pistons. I have them in mine now and im gonna give them a shot this weekend. I stayed with the same weight oils and i changed nothing else on the truck so i can really tell what the pistons actually did for me on the lap counter.
Has anyone else tried the 1.3 and what was the results?
Has anyone else tried the 1.3 and what was the results?
I am gonna order up one of your ackerman bars in the near future for sure.
So I've read that the F/R diffs can be quite a chore to remove, anyone have any input on that? I kind of looked through the manual and it didn't seem that bad, but I'm sure those of you that are avid racers and are rebuilding your diffs often can chime in on what short cuts or tips you might have.
Thanks!
Thanks!

Okay. Here's my Method for quick 5 minute breakdowns to get to the diffs. Hope this helps some of you guys.
Quick Diff Removal Guide:
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
You may try this and call me crazy, but once you can easily pop on and off those CVAs. This is literally a 5 minute diff removal. And you don't have parts strung out all over. Only 4 pieces. or "chunks" I should say. Lemme know if you guys have questions.
I got lazy and didn't want to do a video. Mostly because I have no one to hold the Cellphone Camera.
Quick Diff Removal Guide:
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
You may try this and call me crazy, but once you can easily pop on and off those CVAs. This is literally a 5 minute diff removal. And you don't have parts strung out all over. Only 4 pieces. or "chunks" I should say. Lemme know if you guys have questions.
I got lazy and didn't want to do a video. Mostly because I have no one to hold the Cellphone Camera.

If you are running a 550 can and its working fine no need to really upgrade. I am currently running a 5.5 550 can 2 pole. Its not the motor that makes you any faster its all in the driver. Even though the extra speed is nice 
I plan on trying a pro 4 in the future but I doubt it will make me any faster.

I plan on trying a pro 4 in the future but I doubt it will make me any faster.
If you are running a 550 can and its working fine no need to really upgrade. I am currently running a 5.5 550 can 2 pole. Its not the motor that makes you any faster its all in the driver. Even though the extra speed is nice 
I plan on trying a pro 4 in the future but I doubt it will make me any faster.

I plan on trying a pro 4 in the future but I doubt it will make me any faster.
[QUOTE=Resqnu;10039344]Coyoteslash posted this on page 707. His method worked great for me.[/QUOT
Man that looks way easyier to get to the diffs on it maybe il rethink my choice of getting the SC10 4X 4. Thats just a maybe
Now i noticed on the manuel it doesnt mention if you should mount the servo horn at 90@ degress or a little to the left or right ?
Man that looks way easyier to get to the diffs on it maybe il rethink my choice of getting the SC10 4X 4. Thats just a maybe
Now i noticed on the manuel it doesnt mention if you should mount the servo horn at 90@ degress or a little to the left or right ?
Last edited by tc5 man; 12-14-2011 at 07:51 PM.
no i didnt remove the shock boots. How would that make a differance? and i also checked the travel and it doesnt bind on anything at all haha



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