24k in my short course and geared kinda high shouldn't be a problem....should it?.....it's tight track ......look at avatar...

Just check your temps, I shoot for max 150, but some go as high as 160-180.

It's all good! I was just referring to the Manual. I have to different types of motor checkers (SkyRC,G Force) and every motor I have tested including my Certified motor's the timing that is shown on the end Bell has never been the same as the timing on my dynos. Most are much lower! I have seen up to 10* of timing difference. I never really pay attention to end Bell mark's until a test them, and then I just scratch I new mark. So test your motor's you might be surprised I was!

True, I use the motor checker for accurate readings. Of all the motors I have (12) the best one is 4* less the end bell. All others range from 5-10* less.

Most of the time I leave the timing as is! However, when I do trun it up I usually go 5-10*. Now I only run Certified motor's but I do have a couple of Trinity motor's tuned by Express Motorsports (EMS) excellent motor's by the way. Oh! I always replace the bearings with Trinity's ceramic bearings after the first dyno run avg gain 300-500 RPMS after full break-in. Oh! and by the why the outside timing mark's show 55* timing when its only 47* another benefit of a dyno.

are grade 5 bearings one step below ceramics?

Yes I believe so!

hey guys, looking to possibly pic up one of these motors for 2wd buggy blinky racing?

How does the EA Motor sports version compare to just the regular 24K?

Do any of you recommend a link to proper motor tuning for stock racing? I got a motor tester here, don't really know much of what to look for so curious on suggestions for guys who run a lot of stock / spec classes.

Check out this forum on the motor checker

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...r-checker.html

I use amps to set my motor's most manufacturer do! More amps less run time more heat! More timing less torque. My motor is set at 47* amps draw is 3.8 I can run 6 mins with this and motor temps stay around 170-175* excellent temp in my book! Track time is important remember it's not a chassis dyno so track time shows all. Have fun with it! It does make a difference.

thanks, I'll give that thread a look and I'll see if I can detremine what brand tester I have here.

So 24ko for sct and ST 17.5?

24k for buggy 17.5?

I don't own 24KO,
But I have done a lot of research before buying my 24k 17.5
People are saying 24KO aren't impressive at all compared to the motors they had.
Some also commented that they should have gotten 24K instead.
I think 24KO looks good on paper, but seems to not perform as well as 24k.
Just wanted to share my observation after a few days of research.

They are probably sold that way but bearing grade is a tolerance rating, separate from material. The ceramic bearings are likely also grade 5 (aka. ABEC-5).

There is also another "grade" rating for bearing balls themselves, 2 to 1,000 that refers to the accuracy/roundness in millionth's of an inch. In this scale, the lower number is better.

The ceramic bearings we see in the hobby are actually hybrid ceramic (ceramic balls, steel races). They can be a little faster but are almost always less durable, due the the greater difference in hardness between the races and balls.

As with anything, quality of materials is as important as manufacturing accuracy but we don't usually get that kind of information.

Si!

I've actually been very impressed with my express Motorsports 17.5t 24KO motor in a MM 22sct. I was using a pro spec fantom ion4 before the 24KO & the the EM 24KO performs better on the track and runs cooler. I did have to find the optimal gearing and end bell motor timing for my track, setup, etc

Here's the can data and the max RPM from my last race..