Cain

iTrader: (294)

cool thanks!

Racecarguy

iTrader: (11)

The 24k is more suited for blinky classes. You may want to try the KO in classes that use boosted.

Cain

iTrader: (294)

yeah if I do this motor in 13.5 it will most likley be in a blinky mode.

jmcelroy42

iTrader: (10)

Has anyone tried any of the 24K mod motors yet? I am currently using the 17.5 but am planning on switching to mod. I'm curious about how the short stack stator will perform in a mod motor. Lookig at the 7.5 probably.

jmcelroy42

iTrader: (10)

anybody???

Les Vegetables

For a mod motor it doesn't matter. In mod you have freedom to change a lot more about a motor. With a spec motor, (like a 17.5) it is always gonna be about who can make the most power within the rules. Mod, if an 8.5 isn't enough, put in a 7.5. Don't like the power band of a particular motor in Mod? Change the rotor, lower the timing, gear it down. Do any of those things to a spec motor by just a little too much and you go from making an adjustment to the power delivery, to not being able to clear that one jump. 17.5 to a 7.5 is a big jump. How consistent are your laps in 17.5?

Dino_D

50 on the can marking isn't 50. I have a couple of these motors and most of the time at the 50 mark its somewhere between 43-47. Its normally a bit lower than marked. And the motor really produces more power at over 50 timing set on a motor analyzer, which normally will show close to 55 to 60 on the can.

Most of my motors are timed between the 50-53 range on the analyzer, and it will normally pull around 7.0A.

Certs make over 30K Rpm with a 17.5, non-cert are just under 30k. 28-29K
21.5T 23k @7.2A & Non certs will pull 21-22k.

As for certified vs non certified, the certified 24k are normally about 10%-15% or more faster out of the box vs the 24k. With a bit of tweaking on the timing and shimming and adjusting the tightness of the sensor board you can get it about 3-5% of a certified. Also there is a bigger variance of performance using a non-cert. You might get one really fast, or you might have a dud that can even make 19k rpm. I tested 2 certs, and 6 non certs in the 17.5T and 1 cert and 5 non certs in the 21.5T

Another thing, these motors have more RPM than some other motors, so you can always run a pinion or 2 less than your D4 and still have similar torque and more top end.

24k is better for a buggy or a large flowing Touring track
I prefer the KO in a 4WD or 2WD SCT or a mixed technical track.
D4 maxzilla for a small tight touring track as you can take advantage of a full stator for torque.

The 24k seems better in larger flowing tracks as its more of a mid-top end motor. Thus I always run a pinion or 2 less and let the motor REV.

dsms4ever

iTrader: (13)

https://youtu.be/IG-IaC7X_z8

https://youtu.be/N6q4xQvsB1M

dsms4ever

iTrader: (13)

I posted those two videos to compare the "noise" I have in my brand new certified 17.5 24k motor. It was cogging really bad at first, so I turned up my min. throttle on my Tekin rs gen 1 esc to 15%....up from 5% I used to have it set at, I also set my NW to 0, down from 15%, and my throttle profile to 5, from 3. The cog is gone, but I shouldn't have to set up my esc like that to get out of my cog issue. I have replaced the sensor wire and that helped but didn't get rid of it. I emailed trinity and Kevin got back to me very quickly. After talking to him on the phone I am going to send it back to them so they can check everything out. He did offer to send me a new sensor board for free, but I just assumed have them check it out just to be sure. He said, there is no reason the motor should cog at all. And as others have said He said honestly the $50 dollar Hobby Wing ESC is PERFECT for running in blinky stock with this motor. They do max out the punch, and run it as aggressively as possible though.

Am I being paranoid here???

If the company is saying that the $50 dollar Hobby Wing esc is perfect for this motor, why waste money on something more expensive. If it's not about providing amps is it honestly about "feeling", "settings", or "ability to increase esc timing"?

I'm beginning to understand why the old man at our local shop thinks its ridiculous how insane people get about obsessing over these minute details when honestly the people who win are just better drivers. I find myself becoming way too OCD about the hop ups and settings rather than just focusing on becoming a better driver.

dsms4ever

iTrader: (13)

30k RPM??? My certified 17.5 24k had 22,498 written on the label!!!

Mudcat981

iTrader: (4)

I run the HW Justock for my 17.5 and 13.5 motors. Provides all the power and less weight and size. Also has enough bells and whistles anything more practice will take care of.

I only run the HW v3.1 when running mod motors because of the amp draw.

dsms4ever

iTrader: (13)

Talked to Kevin today as trincorp received my motor today to check it over. Sensor board was fine, but they replaced it anyways just to be sure, and he bumped up the timing more so now it will pull 5.5 amps, and about 23500 Rpms. I guess I'm really confused about why this motor is better than others because 5.5 amps seems like nothing, and so does 23500 rpm for a certified motor. We'll see if I still have my stuttering problem and cog problem on very light throttle upon take off

Mudcat981

iTrader: (4)

This is about where I set my 17.5 motors:

AMP KV RPM Timing
4.9 3053 24123 48*
5.2 2981 23552 49*
6.4 3248 25667 50*
4.8 3015 23826 47*

dsms4ever

iTrader: (13)

The end bell mark was already 59* so not sure what it is now and what it's actually set at now.

I also ordered a hobby wing xr10 esc and programmer today so if the tekin still cogs the motor hopefully the hobby wing won't. Kevin said motors should not cog at all!

ashxxx

iTrader: (137)

6 on amp draw on the 24k the d4's where 9.