Anybody tried a certified 17.5 in a T5m yet(not 1s)??

I'm taking from reading this thread that maybe I should drop the timing back to around 50 degrees from the current 58 it's at, and maybe a tooth or two lower than the gearing 30/75 I had in my T4 with a stock D4 with the factory set 35 degrees it had. Am I in the ballpark??

Thx--

Phil

Looking to get a D4 13.5 but can't find KV rating any where for these motors. Anyone have/know where to find KV numbers on these?

Why does the D4 1S run so hot? I did back to back testing between my 1702RM and my "other brand". Tested in my B5M with a Tekin RS Gen2 and my 201XMW with a HW 3.1. No fans in either car. In both cars the D4 was running 158F after 5 minutes. The "OB" was at 120 in both cars after 5 minutes. Ran 50* at first in the D4 then dropped to 40* but the temps didn't change. I ran the the same gearing between motors/cars, when I changed FD I went to the same in both cars.

I'm not really pleased with the temps it runs at, but I'd be okay with it if it was faster than my other motor. But its not. It is consistantly 0.2sec a lap slower.

I'll keep playing with it, but it doesn't seem to live up to the hype for me. But if anyone could let me know why it runs so hot, that would be great.

What FDR and timing are you running in the B5M? For me, high 5, low 6 has been great with 55-60 degrees of timing. After 6 min main I was 155 and it was very fast. I do run a fan though.

Why do you need the kv? it really doesn't do any good in comparing different motor brands.

I started with 6.24 (72/30) but it quit pulling half way down the straight. I tried 72/31-32 and 69/30-31-32-33. Timing was tested at 50* and at 40*.

The current layout has a really long straight with a high speed sweeper at the end. My other motor is running 30*, out of 40* max, but you can't really compare timing between manufactures with the marks on the can.

I have been running the D4-1S 58* timing in both my buggy and ST. I have never had the motor above 150 except when running 10 minute mains, then it is only 155. Normal temp for 5 min is 120-125. FDR 5.48 buggy and 6.84 ST , I now run 5.86 - buggy and 7.38 ST, because it was actually faster through the entire track and I did not seem to lose straight-away speed.

One of my theories of why some people have high temps has been the ESC. I have been running a high end ESC (ORCA VXX), but when at the stock nats I fired one of them and bought a Hobbywing Justock. I didnt have time to worry about temps then but after my next race I will be checking the temps.

So I will be able to see if there is a difference with a different ESC.

Temps were the same between my Tekin and Hobbywing. I could try the Orion 10.1, but I'm not sure if it'll be any different. Funny thing is that this is the only motor I've run that has gotten this hot. My Speed Passion doesn't even hit 100* after 5 minutes. The Hobbywing motor comes in around 110* after 5 minutes.

how big is your track? track i run on is about 125ft straight and when i had 30/69 it wasn't getting up to full speed until 3/4 down the track where i'd pull hard on other buggies. i went slightly up in FDR to try and get it to spool up just a little bit quicker so it would start to pull on people a little sooner. if you're going to run a FDR in the high 5 to low 6 range you need more timing. you said the temps didn't drop from going to 40 from 50. try 55, 60 and temp it. again, for me at 31/72 after a 6 min main i'm coming off at 155 and that's on a super high bite sugar track.

i am between 120 and 160 depending on how long I run, 5 minutes at 120 and every minute adds about 10* of temperature.

I don't know about the D4s but usually when something says "1s" on it, that means it has a smaller and/or weaker rotor in it. That will result in higher temps all else being equal compared to a larger/stronger rotor.

Which is kind of stupid since big strong rotors are better in 1s too except for back in the boosted days when small weak rotors were KILLER! With blinky, give me more magnet.

the D4 SS (1s) comes with a 12.5mm torque rotor.

Cool, should actually run better and cooler then. In the past, 1s motors had wimpy rotors for boosted use and a lot of people seem to think that is still the way to go. It's not.

The D4 1S motor uses the same rotor as the entire Trinity line uses. The difference is in the length of the stack (Short Stack). Since the stack is shorter there is less material to heat up so it will heat up faster then a motor with a standard length stack like the first D4 or other motors mentioned above..

The D4 1s has a sweet spot right at 8 amps on a Extreme or Gforce motor checker. This is right around 58-60 degrees timing. I would start there and adjust gearing for temps.

I see most of you are at fdr 5.5-6.0 with 55-60 timing.

Does anyone run minimal timing, but gear it to the moon? like in the 4.5 range..?