Is there anyway that someone with an inline checker can also copare readings with an amp clamp too to see what kind of differences there is and post it on a motor they are setting to 10 amps with an inline tool??? If so id really appreciate it.

Anybody out there that can see what the difference would be between the two? I will be checking with drive train attached and wheels removed.

Can someone help me understand how to optimally approach end-bell timing vs. gearing? My track recent switched to a tight layout with no straight-away, and multiple jumps that are kind of tough to make. I have a B5R. I need lots of torque, and don't care much about top end speed on this layout.

My current understanding (which could be wrong, please correct me)...
1. If I have have a high final drive ratio, that gives me more torque. I have a 72 Spur. So therefore, I need to have a smaller pinion. I have gone to 30, but now thinking about going down quite a bit further...27? 72:27 with a 2.6 gear ratio gives a FDR of 6.9. That's pretty big, I think.
2. Less timing on the end-bell = more torque. Therefore, I just put it on zero degrees of timing- right?

My confusion comes from many recommendations that seem to suggest a large FDR to generate torque, but then lots of end-bell timing is recommended. Aren't these contradictory suggestions?

Any clarification would be appreciated...

Ivet ried both on my sct 78/28 with 40deg timing and 78/24 with 55deg and liked the torque alot more with the second one but think i need a little more timing....

On my buggy i run 69/33 and i have plenty of torque and speed combo i can clear all jumps with a blip of throttle

Both are losi 2.0 vehicles with 2.43 trans ratios i believe

On a small indoor track, 15-16 second laps, b5m running 72 / 32 with 58 timing. How does that sound?

What gearing for a 12.5 rotor D4 13.5 in a 1500 gram RB6 MM? I bought it used off this forum and it was set at 52 degree endbell. I ran it with 78/29, motor was barely warm but lacked a bit of punch. I can cure that with a heavier battery with more punch, but wanna use my 150 gram shorty for nimbleness.

Our tracks (wet clay delta rc winter arena) getting stickier by the week and I think we would soon be running slicks. There are some short run up jumps I wanna easily clear, right now car needs to be perfectly setup so overtaking someone or in traffic it gets icky.

Any reason to upgrade from my D3.5? Is it that much better?

Nope but its legal for us stock racers.

D3.5 is not approved at most big races. D4 is. I think 3.5 is faster.

I was looking over the instructions and it says it comes from the factory with the timing set at 30 on the endbell. However , the mark on the endbell is pointing to 50. I know the instructions said it could handle an extra 20 degrees, just wanted to be sure.

With a 17.5 or 13.5 blinky setup yes 50* is good starting point and you might go a few clicks more if your motor is not too hot. Check temps and keep them 180* or cooler. What car are you running it in and what size track? Indoor outdoor? Outside temps? Gearing is KEY!

How do you tell the difference looking at the big blue and regular certified motor?

Losi 22 2.0, 30 pinion , small indoor track.

Big blue is NOT R.O.A.R. legal
Certified are

Both come in certified model i know big blue is not roar just curious if they have different markings they look alike. Seems like it would be easy way to cheat if they look the same.