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Originally Posted by Josh L
(Post 14095850)
Both are real nice.
One's metal and manufacturer specific, the other is NATO approved high impact plastic, water proof, and customizable for anything and will hold a high resale value for a long long time. The choice would be simple for me. Pelican |
I just bought some stuff from amain and came across the ProTek RC Universal Radio Case Insert (Traxxas TQi). The Futaba 4PX fits in okay and at $1.19 its a steal:)
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Originally Posted by cbs007
(Post 14097305)
I just bought some stuff from amain and came across the ProTek RC Universal Radio Case Insert (Traxxas TQi). The Futaba 4PX fits in okay and at $1.19 its a steal:)
I bought this too...can cut according to my teammagic remote bag size... it looks great! |
is anyone in here successfully using the 4px and s9353hv servo with the orion 8.1 esc?
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Originally Posted by micrors4guy
(Post 14103395)
is anyone in here successfully using the 4px and s9353hv servo with the orion 8.1 esc?
4px and 9353/ Tekin RX8 Gen 2 (E Buggy) - without issues |
Originally Posted by Frank L
(Post 14103435)
4px and 9353/9352 servos (nitro) - without issues
4px and 9353/ Tekin RX8 Gen 2 (E Buggy) - without issues |
Originally Posted by micrors4guy
(Post 14103471)
im looking for the exact combo I listed because I am being told the problem I am having is because my servo is drawing too much power from the BEC.
I had a problem with my hobbywing SCT XERUN speed control running my 9352-HV servo. Once the battery was half gone, I would loose a lot of my steering and it would feel very mushy until I let off the throttle in the slow sections. But adding a caps seemed to eliminate the problem for me since there is a reserve of juice for burst loads to be drawn from on hard acceleration. Honestly it's BS in my opinion that these ESC companies can't get it through their heads in this day and time we need stronger BEC output currents for HV servos, or at least an adjustable version. Here are links to those> Glitch Buster Rx Cap Reedy Black Box Motor-Output Cap Pack As another good option, a lot of people are bypassing the ESC's BEC all together and either running direct from the battery or from the battery output through an external BEC like this one> 10 amp adjustable BEC All you have to do to run an external BEC is to remove the red wire from the ESC output plug to the Rx. Then plug the new external BEC into a spare channel and your good to go. If you go with the adjustable version I linked, you can run a much higher output and the difference in servo power will be improved greatly. |
Originally Posted by Josh L
(Post 14103513)
Just add a glitch buster capacitor to the Rx and a cap pack to the ESC for the motor to pull easier off the ESC. This also helps things run cooler with less resistance.
I had a problem with my hobbywing SCT XERUN speed control running my 9352-HV servo. Once the battery was half gone, I would loose a lot of my steering and it would feel very mushy until I let off the throttle in the slow sections. But adding a caps seemed to eliminate the problem for me since there is a reserve of juice for burst loads to be drawn from on hard acceleration. Honestly it's BS in my opinion that these ESC companies can't get it through their heads in this day and time we need stronger BEC output currents for HV servos, or at least an adjustable version. Here are links to those> Glitch Buster Rx Cap Reedy Black Box Motor-Output Cap Pack I am running 6700mah batteries now compared to the 4600's I really doubt I am even using half of the battery after 3-4 mins of running. I am just not buying the issue they are telling me. |
I know your ESC has a bank on it, most of them do, but adding some more never hurts anything and your on-boards could be fried. This would help you know if that is the case. But I agree with you, that should not be happening regardless of what servo your using. Could you explain in more detail whats going on and what they are saying?
It sounds more like your overheating from some sort of heavy resistance, or your hitting the BEC limiter for some off reason. I had to adjust my HW XERUN to a 3v cutoff to keep it from cutting out way to early. I seen it cut me off with almost 28% still left on the pack. You might have a lemon. |
Originally Posted by Josh L
(Post 14103513)
Just add a glitch buster capacitor to the Rx and a cap pack to the ESC for the motor to pull easier off the ESC. This also helps things run cooler with less resistance.
I had a problem with my hobbywing SCT XERUN speed control running my 9352-HV servo. Once the battery was half gone, I would loose a lot of my steering and it would feel very mushy until I let off the throttle in the slow sections. But adding a caps seemed to eliminate the problem for me since there is a reserve of juice for burst loads to be drawn from on hard acceleration. Honestly it's BS in my opinion that these ESC companies can't get it through their heads in this day and time we need stronger BEC output currents for HV servos, or at least an adjustable version. Here are links to those> Glitch Buster Rx Cap Reedy Black Box Motor-Output Cap Pack As another good option, a lot of people are bypassing the ESC's BEC all together and either running direct from the battery or from the battery output through an external BEC like this one> 10 amp adjustable BEC All you have to do to run an external BEC is to remove the red wire from the ESC output plug to the Rx. Then plug the new external BEC into a spare channel and your good to go. If you go with the adjustable version I linked, you can run a much higher output and the difference in servo power will be improved greatly. |
Originally Posted by Josh L
(Post 14103551)
I know your ESC has a bank on it, most of them do, but adding some more never hurts anything and your on-boards could be fried. This would help you know if that is the case. But I agree with you, that should not be happening regardless of what servo your using. Could you explain in more detail whats going on and what they are saying?
It sounds more like your overheating from some sort of heavy resistance, or your hitting the BEC limiter for some off reason. I had to adjust my HW XERUN to a 3v cutoff to keep it from cutting out way to early. I seen it cut me off with almost 28% still left on the pack. You might have a lemon. 2nd run 3-4 mins in landing a jump and on power it cut out but came back on. (thinking it could have been the switch getting hit I moved some things around and lowered the bec from 7.4-6.0) 3rd run cutout and still retained steering. but lost 99% motor power. (thinking it could be the motor I changed to a new motor and dropped the timing to 0*) 4th run same issue. so I changed sensor wires 5th run again still cutting out so I tried sensorless. 6th-issue still remained so I gave up. I am going to try a different servo. rewiring everything. glitch buster and changing from deans to xt90 plugs. The motor was never hotter than 155 and the esc never hotter than 140* fan was always on and still works. |
Originally Posted by Dino_D
(Post 14103565)
How high have you set your Bec output on the ESC to supply your HV servo? Sometimes instead of setting it at 7.2v or higher, try setting to 7.0 or 6.7v. I bet you will have less of a slow down on your servo over the run.
Also that doesn't make any sense. The whole purpose of an HV servo is to take advantage of just that. A lot of the HV heli guys use an unregulated system upto 8.4v, and none of them use anything less than 7.4 regulated. What is your reasoning behind your claim?
Originally Posted by micrors4guy
(Post 14103585)
1st run was fine no issues.
2nd run 3-4 mins in landing a jump and on power it cut out but came back on. (thinking it could have been the switch getting hit I moved some things around and lowered the bec from 7.4-6.0) 3rd run cutout and still retained steering. but lost 99% motor power. (thinking it could be the motor I changed to a new motor and dropped the timing to 0*) 4th run same issue. so I changed sensor wires 5th run again still cutting out so I tried sensorless. 6th-issue still remained so I gave up. I am going to try a different servo. rewiring everything. glitch buster and changing from deans to xt90 plugs. The motor was never hotter than 155 and the esc never hotter than 140* fan was always on and still works. The BEC should not allow the servo to drain anything past it's maximum output, which is probably 6v. I feel like your going to find your problem somewhere else within the solder joints or the ESC circuitry it's self. A friend of mine had a bad post connection to the main board in his ESC and his cut out similar to what your experiencing. Keep me posted as to what you find. I feel for ya, cause it's really irritating when stuff like this happens. It's like playing the lottery to get a solid setup these days. |
If anyone has a "S" trigger they would like to sell or happens to know a place that has them in stock message me please. Thanks
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Originally Posted by Dan.J
(Post 14104106)
If anyone has a "S" trigger they would like to sell or happens to know a place that has them in stock message me please. Thanks
Powerstar trigger https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...Lvl5Eh6VmW8P6k |
Originally Posted by Josh L
(Post 14104158)
Why not just buy the Powerstar version for half the price?
Powerstar trigger https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...Lvl5Eh6VmW8P6k |
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