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-   -   DX4R Pro (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/761136-dx4r-pro.html)

hackersmovie 12-19-2014 06:32 PM


Originally Posted by Mizchief (Post 13729893)
Seems you could wire them 2s2p and run all 4 batteries with increased capacity?

Now that's great thinking! I'll try to get 4 of those 1600's and wire them in 2s2P and have 3200! That should do ;)

hackersmovie 12-19-2014 06:44 PM

Well that was easy! Found these on Ebay, $14 shipped for 4 of them, I'll give em' a shot.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA...UkqLH/$_12.JPG

LosiRacer33 12-19-2014 08:14 PM

Hey guys. Any word on a new version coming soon? I'm about to pull the trigger on a new DX4R to replace my DX4S but don't want to if there's something new in the works.

Mizchief 12-19-2014 09:27 PM


Originally Posted by hackersmovie (Post 13730412)
For me it's cost. I've run the same transmitter battery for years and only normally have to charge them once a month. Why continue to buy batteries just to toss em' in the trash when I can essentially buy one set and be done.

Plus you can top them off on race day and never worry about it going dead, or having to swap the disposable batteries early just to make sure you don't go dead during a race.

monkeyracing 12-19-2014 10:13 PM


Originally Posted by bentgear (Post 13730351)
Why does everyone want the hassle of charging batteries and worrying if they will hold up on race day. Pop some Energizer Lithium Ultimates in there and use them for months.

My radio is very easy on batteries, but combined with everything else I've got running AAs, it really adds up. And how often do most of us actually dispose of them properly? Better for the wallet and the world.

platgof 12-21-2014 07:22 AM

I checked those Energizer Lithium Batteries and they start at 6.68 volts, not bad. But for the cost you can get the NIZN and be done with it. I really like the wiring diagram MRacing, sharp. Has anyone tried it yet, and what voltage would show on the screen? 7.2 V would be super. I am glad to see this new wiring diagram as the batteries should last a long while.

robbie_gtc 12-22-2014 09:38 PM


Originally Posted by eddie10 (Post 13189803)
Remove the bottom 2 or 3 screws. You can then stretch it apart enough the tray will fall out. De solder the wires at the tray and put a battery connector on(jst or whatever you prefer). Lots of room for a life. I have a 2100 mah square pack in mine. Lasts for months. Lots of room.

Anyone else done this? Any complications?

hackersmovie 12-22-2014 10:23 PM


Originally Posted by robbie_gtc (Post 13736242)
Anyone else done this? Any complications?

I'd like to know too. I'm gonna either buy the LiFe AA batteries or get a LiFe pack and remove the tray.

When I do I'll do a "how to" thread, seems a lot of people want to know....

clarkie_ni 12-23-2014 05:56 AM


Originally Posted by robbie_gtc (Post 13736242)
Anyone else done this? Any complications?

i had an old 1700mah life battery lying around so i thoght i would try it on my dx4r pro, however the battery was just slightly too tall to work.
but the removal of the battery tray is easy, as previously mentioned, get the 3 screws out at the base part of the radio and one further up above the grip. you can take out even more above that which will give you a little more flex between the 2 halves.
one word of warning, watch the switch and the little tear drop insert below it. mine went flying out and had a job finding them again.
also the negative wire soldered to the AA battery tray is insanely short, so much so i dunno how they got the tray in there. i soldered in an extension to this wire so it was easier to but back in the radio tray until a source a slightly skinner life battery.

platgof 01-03-2015 08:30 PM

Dave H mentioned the setting for response time, that the default is set at 4, so I looked at the menu and sure enough, it was set at 4, so I move it to 1 and the response time is now much quicker. I love those NiZn batteries, as it is so nice to look at the screen and see 6.9 volts, one less thing to worry about.

Yosh70 01-03-2015 08:40 PM


Originally Posted by platgof (Post 13758956)
Dave H mentioned the setting for response time, that the default is set at 4, so I looked at the menu and sure enough, it was set at 4, so I move it to 1 and the response time is now much quicker. I love those NiZn batteries, as it is so nice to look at the screen and see 6.9 volts, one less thing to worry about.

What are you talking about, response time?

Dave H 01-03-2015 09:12 PM

Trim step from the default of 4 to 1, for finer trim adjustments, was something I posted recently. Should have no effect on response time or speed.

sickpuppy1 01-03-2015 10:13 PM


Originally Posted by hackersmovie (Post 13736282)
I'd like to know too. I'm gonna either buy the LiFe AA batteries or get a LiFe pack and remove the tray.

When I do I'll do a "how to" thread, seems a lot of people want to know....

I've had a 2100 LIFE battery in mine for a year now. Lasts for.....well I dont know. After 3-4 weeks I charge it anyways, because it just doesnt feel right to go that long on a charge,lol, still showing 6.3-6.4 volts. but come on, thats a long time! Yes I love it. Getting the case back together for me was the biggest deal. I use a HP-FT2080-2S battery from Hyperion, Got it here.

Watch for sales, you can get it cheaper, though, I did.

platgof 01-04-2015 06:39 PM

I am glad I went the NiZn route as it was easy and cheap. I even bought an extra pack of batteries just in case. It is nice when I flip it on and see 6.6 volts after a night of racing. I can easily go two weeks of racing, no problem, and never be below 6 volts. I recharge at 6.2 to 6.3 volts. I noticed that all glitching goes away past 6 volts.

mkl 01-05-2015 06:04 PM

for those using the NiZN batteries, how are you charging them? in the charger that I see sold with the batteries, or plugging in a wall charger to the radio?


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