Tekin RSX Thread
#946
I definitely do not think i'm delutional here. reverse is definitely faster than forward. If i attempt to switch the throttle direction, it wont calibrate.
Tlr 22 2.0 Mid Motor
speed passion 10.5 Motor
Tekin RSX
Will I need hotwire to change the direction of the motor?
Could timing on the motor can have something to do with it? I reset the esc to factory values wihich appear to be set to "full brake/reverse) under the brake strength profile but it says it should be at 4-5 in the manual. I'm not sure what firmware I have as I don't have a Hotwire.
Tlr 22 2.0 Mid Motor
speed passion 10.5 Motor
Tekin RSX
Will I need hotwire to change the direction of the motor?
Could timing on the motor can have something to do with it? I reset the esc to factory values wihich appear to be set to "full brake/reverse) under the brake strength profile but it says it should be at 4-5 in the manual. I'm not sure what firmware I have as I don't have a Hotwire.
#950
Randy, On a tight indoor track Im looking for setup changes
HB D413 with RSX and Gen 2 6.5 motor
too much motor
what esc setings and radio settings do you recommend? Instead of buying new motor at this time?
thanks
HB D413 with RSX and Gen 2 6.5 motor
too much motor
what esc setings and radio settings do you recommend? Instead of buying new motor at this time?
thanks
#951
You looking to lower overall power or just the top end?
#953
I have always lowered the endbell timing to zero, and then used boost thru the ESC on my personal vehicles.
#954
#955
Sounds like your EPA's or "travel" is off. Try to reset the model memory in the transmitter and start over.
#957
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,362
From: Central Wisconsin USA
1,2,6,7 usually means wrong type of motor selected. (brushless/brushed) I think this has to be set via Hotwire. First thing to check.
#958
Friday night, last run of practice at Fastlane, the car went from running normally to anytime I went to 3/4-Full throttle, the power to the motor seem to drop to ~50%. Yet, low-mid throttle acted normally.
Rsx with cap & fan, blinky, throttle was originally set to 85%, cut-off 3V/cell, 65C (2S) new shorty, in TLR 22-4, novak 6.5 (factory timed), there were NO error codes flashing.
the motor and esc heated up very quickly, I probably ran 4-5laps before pulling it off the track, and the motor was too hot to have my finger on for 1s. The data log showed the ESC was 138deg at peak in the recording, and that the throttle had max peaks of 86.2... fluctuating BEC voltage and battery voltage(some spikes down to 6.9 correlating with peak throttle).
1st, I switched sensor wire = no change
2nd, I changed to esc to 80% throttle (bcz I saw that on some of the ESC setup sheets) = no change
3rd, I changed from Blinky to C1, then changed from Sensored Only to Dual Mode = fixed my throttle issue.
-Switching to "Dual mode" had the car drive and responding as I was previously use to. So, by does this imply that if its not the sensor wire, its the sensor board on the motor, or the plug-in port of the ESC?
note: ESC had been set the TX having zero'd EPA's and the I only use the Brake EPA. I never change the Throttle EPA. The cap in intact, soldered correctly, ESC wires have only been soldered on 1x. Gearing was 18/84..
Rsx with cap & fan, blinky, throttle was originally set to 85%, cut-off 3V/cell, 65C (2S) new shorty, in TLR 22-4, novak 6.5 (factory timed), there were NO error codes flashing.
the motor and esc heated up very quickly, I probably ran 4-5laps before pulling it off the track, and the motor was too hot to have my finger on for 1s. The data log showed the ESC was 138deg at peak in the recording, and that the throttle had max peaks of 86.2... fluctuating BEC voltage and battery voltage(some spikes down to 6.9 correlating with peak throttle).
1st, I switched sensor wire = no change
2nd, I changed to esc to 80% throttle (bcz I saw that on some of the ESC setup sheets) = no change
3rd, I changed from Blinky to C1, then changed from Sensored Only to Dual Mode = fixed my throttle issue.
-Switching to "Dual mode" had the car drive and responding as I was previously use to. So, by does this imply that if its not the sensor wire, its the sensor board on the motor, or the plug-in port of the ESC?
note: ESC had been set the TX having zero'd EPA's and the I only use the Brake EPA. I never change the Throttle EPA. The cap in intact, soldered correctly, ESC wires have only been soldered on 1x. Gearing was 18/84..
#959
Friday night, last run of practice at Fastlane, the car went from running normally to anytime I went to 3/4-Full throttle, the power to the motor seem to drop to ~50%. Yet, low-mid throttle acted normally.
Rsx with cap & fan, blinky, throttle was originally set to 85%, cut-off 3V/cell, 65C (2S) new shorty, in TLR 22-4, novak 6.5 (factory timed), there were NO error codes flashing.
the motor and esc heated up very quickly, I probably ran 4-5laps before pulling it off the track, and the motor was too hot to have my finger on for 1s. The data log showed the ESC was 138deg at peak in the recording, and that the throttle had max peaks of 86.2... fluctuating BEC voltage and battery voltage(some spikes down to 6.9 correlating with peak throttle).
1st, I switched sensor wire = no change
2nd, I changed to esc to 80% throttle (bcz I saw that on some of the ESC setup sheets) = no change
3rd, I changed from Blinky to C1, then changed from Sensored Only to Dual Mode = fixed my throttle issue.
-Switching to "Dual mode" had the car drive and responding as I was previously use to. So, by does this imply that if its not the sensor wire, its the sensor board on the motor, or the plug-in port of the ESC?
note: ESC had been set the TX having zero'd EPA's and the I only use the Brake EPA. I never change the Throttle EPA. The cap in intact, soldered correctly, ESC wires have only been soldered on 1x. Gearing was 18/84..
Rsx with cap & fan, blinky, throttle was originally set to 85%, cut-off 3V/cell, 65C (2S) new shorty, in TLR 22-4, novak 6.5 (factory timed), there were NO error codes flashing.
the motor and esc heated up very quickly, I probably ran 4-5laps before pulling it off the track, and the motor was too hot to have my finger on for 1s. The data log showed the ESC was 138deg at peak in the recording, and that the throttle had max peaks of 86.2... fluctuating BEC voltage and battery voltage(some spikes down to 6.9 correlating with peak throttle).
1st, I switched sensor wire = no change
2nd, I changed to esc to 80% throttle (bcz I saw that on some of the ESC setup sheets) = no change
3rd, I changed from Blinky to C1, then changed from Sensored Only to Dual Mode = fixed my throttle issue.
-Switching to "Dual mode" had the car drive and responding as I was previously use to. So, by does this imply that if its not the sensor wire, its the sensor board on the motor, or the plug-in port of the ESC?
note: ESC had been set the TX having zero'd EPA's and the I only use the Brake EPA. I never change the Throttle EPA. The cap in intact, soldered correctly, ESC wires have only been soldered on 1x. Gearing was 18/84..



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