Also, I purchased a buggy with a 1 run old (supposably) RSX/gen2 6.5 combo. Esc has had the switch removed which I guess doesn't hurt anything but also does not have the voltage cap installed, guy said he never put it on cause its not needed I know it needs one, should I buy the one from Tekin or is the SMC ExCap I have sufficient to solder in? The Esc seem's to power on fine, should I be concerned about the ESC being damaged in any way from the other owner running it without the cap or if it would have caused damage would it not power on? Buggy is going thru a rebuild so I can't really "test" it just yet to see if all is well.

Thought it was.. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXDNRK&P=ML

But that aint it , think you need 25m fans, TT3833.

Yea need the TT3833 but can't seem to locate any....weird.

Stormer Hobbies has them.

http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...s&pn=TEKTT3833

The ESC most definitely needs to have a cap soldered onto it at all times. If the unit was only ran once with out it, it more then likely is okay. There is no requirement to run just the Tekin cap, but we feel is one of the highest quality caps on the market.

Thanks Wanderer. I heard the Tekins run great with their own RSX esc. However the reedy's click and performance I'm told is really inhibited. 1 member in particular is selling all his reedy Mach 2 motors right now and moving to Tekin. He likes the Tekin but prefers reedy and is reluctantly selling all the reedy's at a steep discount. Wonder if this is still he case. Appreciate the feedback and hopefully someone from Tekin will chime in as I'm sure there are many members looking to buy this RSX and run their existing motors

I have the RSX on a D4 17.5 1s and I don't notice any clicking. The esc is super smooth with this motor. I know it's overkill for 17.5 but I will eventually go to mod.

My rsx gave me the 12-67 lights on friday and I'm looking for some advice to know if the motor is also bad.

Rsx has run great for over a year with many batteries run through it. While running the qualifier with my reedy 6.5t, the car started to lose power about 3-4 minutes in. After the qualifier, I could pull the trigger, but the car would not go from a standing start. The led lights would show the progression of me pulling the trigger and illuminate normally. I suspected the sensor wire because if you gave the car a push to start it rolling, the throttle would work normally, so I figured it was the sensor wire.

I replaced the sensor wire and the car had the same issues. Car would not move unless you gave it a push start and only then would the throttle kick in. I switched motors and soldered in a known good motor(reedy 8.5 t) and got the car to move without having to manually push the car(i gave 15% throttle for 1-2 seconds to test), but almost immediately the esc threw the 12-67 lights. Tried to reset and nothing. Esc communicates ok with the hot wire, but that's about it.

What I have done for now is buy a brand new RSX and a brand new Reedy 6.5t mach 3 which work great. But I am nervous to try my old 6.5t or 8.5t because I'm not sure if my motor had died and killed the esc OR the esc just died and the motors are fine.

What should I do? I took the motors apart and they look completely normal, but I'm a little gun shy to solder up the old motors to the new esc to test them.

If your car slows down big time like it did, STOP driving it!

This can be massive cogging or the literal event where a motor is shorting out and going south.

The likely cause that a bad motor took out your RSX is high considering you continued to drive it like that.

IF the 12 67 fault shows with a known good motor, your esc will require service and or replacement. We won't know until we see it in house. Silver lining here is that we offer a very favorable discount on a new one should you require that.

Sorry to hear about the issue, but next time if the car doesn't feel right. Stop driving it

Thanks for the response. In hindsight, I probably should have pulled the car off immediately and with each time I pulled the trigger(and the car didn't move), in the back of my mind I thought back to the many posts I've read about how bad cogging is for the esc.

I will send it in and as others have mentioned, Tekin customer service is top notch. I got many great race days and ran many many packs through the esc before I ever had any issue. I'm happy to pay whatever.

Do people ever send in motors to get tested? I'm nervous to solder up any of the old motors to the new esc and have those motors kill the new esc I just bought. Any suggestions?

The sensor board in the motor probably failed and that's what started the whole deal. You could try a new sensor with that motor and re-test it.

Running a rsx gen2 8.5 combo in my 2wd sct.
Truck runs great... Smooth on start up for roughly 6/7 minutes. At that time it cogs slightly from a dead stop. Once moving it is perfectly smooth even at a slow crawl. As the truck seldom comes to stop while on track it poses no drivability issue. Motor temps at mid 160's and esc at 105 after a 15 minute run. I've had the motor apart several times but all seems well.
Once the truck cools it will run smooth Again on start up for 6/7 minutes. Since this started the motor has a different tone to it in the middle rpm range, but not at low rpm and not at wot.
Thoughts??

Turns out the bearing spun in the end cap. This removed some material from the bearing seat which pushed the bearing farther out. This allowed the rotor to move away from the sensors on the other end.
Not sure how or why the beRing spun in its seat as it is in perfect condition.
Quick fix was to take a couple thin motor spacers from an old motor to take up the space.
New end cap has been ordered.

Yes all the time.

No, not accurate. We can drive the motor without sensors all day long, even pick up a intermittent board as it fails in and out while you're driving. His cogging was likely a wire that popped off, two motor tabs shorting together, or a motor/can that's shorting out inside.