Sorry for such noob questions~ I've never had to solder on a cap before.

1: Do I need to insulate the cap's wires at all if I solder them on the top of the post and run the cap to the bottom? (where the wire may touch the PCB.)

2: with this wire layout should I maybe just put the cap on my battery leads and just use some heat shink tube to keep it in place?

3: should I maybe get a different cap that I could run a wire around to the front side of the RSX?


Thanks~
Ben

PS. How's the build treating Jeremy Potter??


http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/...psgvo1axma.jpg

Same thing happen yesterday, I run my car 7 minute non stop, the speed was at 147, the motor was around at 120. My gearing is 18T with a 84 spur in my TLR 22-4, esc is on factory setting no fan. One guy at the track is running the same combo as me and his speed is never going up 120 in a b44.2. I am wondering if my esc is having a problem and I should send it back to tekin in a RMA? I have my esc since 23 february.

Maybe some one know a possible issue? I re-soldered everything. I still have 2 month before the warranty end, so if I have to send it back, I rather do it soon for the warranty.

When you say the other guy setup is the same, is everything the same?

Same speedo, same motor (turns, rotor, timing, brand), identical gearing, and same amount of airflow to the RSX?

I'm not sure 147 is that alarmingly hot - gearing and airflow, etc maybe the difference.

He have the same combo RSX/6.5T in a b44.2. Maybe I should wait to receive a fan from tekin. Sorry if I sound a bit paranoiac about my RSX, at the price I paid it, I am sure you guys understand.

Randy or someone from Tekin, I have a B5M, not a lot of room for electronics. I am not running a fan. Can the capacitor be mounted forward like on the RS gen2?
And if anyone has pics of there seteup post them please.

No worries. I understand. I don't think you're at any risky point. Are you running any ESC timing?

Looking at the manual for example, the ESC has 7 on board temp steps. you're only at 3 of 7... Looks like the safety thermal shutoff isn't until 220F.

I will wait for the fan before do more test. Thanks you for your help.

You can run it off the back, or remote wire it but note try to keep the leads as short as possible.

There's nothing wrong here. He's driving a shaft car with some air flow in the chassis due to layout. You're running a belt car(more drag) with NO airflow to the esc due to the belt tunnel. 147 isn't even close to hot yet on the RSX. Note you should ALWAYS use the onboard temp monitor via the led tree to verify temperatures, or use the data logger ;)

Yes you can mount the cap either way.

Thanks Randy, ESC is great, well worth the wait!!!!! And the new Anroid app is awesome as well.

Saw your post on this thread and the B5M thread as well. Here is the RSX all wired up in my B5M.


http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/y...psrsdprp0k.jpg

You got some thin gauge wire on that setup. Not saying it is wrong but thinner then what we typically see. Is that 14g?

Looks like it...14awg can be ok in 2wd mod but keep an eye on the temp of the wire after a run...