OK will do.
This may not be the best place, but I cant find a dedicated multimeter thread. Is the Innova 3320 good for rc/hobby use? It is much less expensive than the Fluke models. https://www.innova.com/en-US/Product...08933265467961
I also have a RX8 Gen2 that I bought last spring that just quit working while I was driving my EB(no power/life at all), all the wires seem to be fine, no high temps, etc.?

Yes, that multimeter will be adequate for hobby use. As long as it has the functions you need, it will serve you well. Usually you are just paying for more accuracy with more expensive meters.

The dead RX8 sounds like something gave way mechanically on the board. It could be a simple fix which Tekin wouldn't charge much to service for you. Even if it is out of warranty, it is worth sending in. Worst case you are out $5 in shipping.

Bought a used rx8 I need to set up this week. Does it need a capacitor like the RSX does?

no it does not

EDIT; reading back through troubleshooting posts i noticed the fan plug. Thanks. been sitting on this and napped on it about 4 times now. ugh. shoulda just came here first.
still no chime when powering on however..


issue with a new Tekin rx8 not powering on
I know it's getting power because the steering servo works
no chime, no led
hard buttons on device don't do anything when pressed or held for any period of time

- plugged in my hotwire and checked settings on the PC
- using 4s 8k mah lipo from maxamps
- bec setting is at 6.0 for the servo
- applied and saved changes.
- it accepts changes and turns on when plugged into hotwire software.

- plugged into the rx correctly.
- using futaba 4px / r304sb combo
what else can i try besides sending back to tekin? lol. thing is basically brand new. it's just been sitting on a shelf for about a year and i don't think that should matter.

Did you calibrate it to your radio?

EDIT: Messing around with Motor type settings fixed this
------- thanks

when powering up the ESC at this point it's giving me the two side LED's which points to motor/connection or something....
still no chime when powering up
It enters calibration mode. get through nuetral and forward just fine, but when i get to brake it doesn't recognize anything
using a Tekin T8 2250KV motor
brand new motor, using 12 awg wire.
I couldn't find a setting in the Hotwire software to adjust for motor type.

on your radio; be sure your end points are at 100% you also have no expo and d/r dialed in.

EDIT: even with factory defaults the issue with throttle curve/braking was way off
updated firmware and it seems to be working properly now

ok i got esc set back to factory
calibration is set
thanks!

having an issue where just a slight tap on the trigger sends it full speed. being sensored i figured it should be able to creep a little bit..
what setting am i missing?

Well this is odd, at least to me. I bought a RX8 Gen 3, & it did the same thing, no power to the RX. I also bought a Fluke 18B+ & I find out that both ESC's are supplying power to the RX. I tried the RX that was already bound to the RC a R304SB, & a BN R204GF-E(w/my 4PX). I went into the receiver settings on the TX & switched from T-FHSS to S-FHSS & used the R204GF-E RX, & now it works. I still don't know why the R304SB wouldn't work. I did recently update the 4PX. I checked both ESC's output & while on 6v I got 5.98v(Gen 2) & on 7.4v I got 7.98v(Gen 3).

If the LED's are following that "jump" the radio/esc calibration wasn't done correctly.

Make sure your EPA's are at 100/100 and any other brake setting is turned to 100% on the transmitter. Then calibrate the ESC to the radio.

Re-check

forgot to look at the LEDs. but i factory reset it and calibrated it a few times with good settings on my tx. thankfully a firmware update fixed it.

I dont know why but it seems the fan on my esc makes a weird grinding/clogging/sputtering noise for about 6 to 7 sec's when i first start it up then it goes to a normal sound and runs fine. Its brand new any ideas why this could be happening?

One thing to check is make sure that you haven't over tightened the screws that hold the fan on the ESC. They don't need to be super tight, just enough to make sure the ESC doesn't move.

ill have to try it and see if that works