SMC LIPO BATTERY THREAD
#511
Tech Master
iTrader: (55)
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,130
I see a few folks talk about letting their batteries cool down before recharging. I've never noticed (and yes, I do check) my LiPos getting warm at any point. Never during racing, bashing, charging, or discharging.
Now, with NiMH, entirely different story. But, I'm curious as to why some folks have batteries that are getting warm enough to have to let them cool. *shrug*
Now, with NiMH, entirely different story. But, I'm curious as to why some folks have batteries that are getting warm enough to have to let them cool. *shrug*
#512
My 1st lipos were the Orion 15c 4800 packs. They'd come off the track slightly warm, I'd hook up the charger and they'd cool during the 1st minutes of the charge. Same thing happens with my 4s 1/8 scale packs.
#513
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 254
I had a different brand 30c 4000 that got warm once when I used it on my 4x4 sct and ran it for 8-9 minutes. Never hit lvc but ended around 3.4 volts when I charged next time. I think they get warm with high drain or when getting close to the max drain ability of the batt. Someone will hopefully let us know if I'm wrong.
Mark
Mark
#517
The non race formula packs come from a different factory that makes cheaper packs this is why we can sell them at the lower prices. I did test all models using my cycle life testing method and they passed it. So the packs are great packs for the price.
#518
Aloha All,
I have a high-IR 7200 2S from SMC. The battery performs great, however I'm running into an issue where the negative female bullet receptacle in the battery is VERY tight. So tight in fact that I often need to use pliers to remove my 4MM Protek male bullets from the ESC.
While I know tighter is better than looser, this is a bit extreme and makes me hesitant to use this pack.
Anyone else have this issue? Any tips/tricks?
Thanks in advance!
I have a high-IR 7200 2S from SMC. The battery performs great, however I'm running into an issue where the negative female bullet receptacle in the battery is VERY tight. So tight in fact that I often need to use pliers to remove my 4MM Protek male bullets from the ESC.
While I know tighter is better than looser, this is a bit extreme and makes me hesitant to use this pack.
Anyone else have this issue? Any tips/tricks?
Thanks in advance!
#519
7200 packs look to be the new king of the hill. They cycle better than anything else out there currently.
Danny, have you ever seen this graph? It was surprising to see that going to 4.2v/cell has such a dramatic effect on cycle life compared to 4.1. It would be an easy rule change to make max voltage 4.1 and batteries would be much happier for it. Now that we're not trying to compete with NiMH, why not?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=5349064
Danny, have you ever seen this graph? It was surprising to see that going to 4.2v/cell has such a dramatic effect on cycle life compared to 4.1. It would be an easy rule change to make max voltage 4.1 and batteries would be much happier for it. Now that we're not trying to compete with NiMH, why not?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attac...mentid=5349064
Very hard to compare different cells as the IR of the cells and materials used will all have an impact on the cycle life. In my opinion you already get great cycle life out of race Lipos. If you get a full race season out of a pack this is not very expensive compared to the NiMh days.
#520
Due to shipping regulations we can't release a 7200-4S as this exceeds the watt hour limits allowed to ship them as regular shipping.
#524
+1 i asked this a while back with no response. I do not need 6500mah for only 10 min races. Just extra weight to carry around in my vehicle. A 4500-5000 4s pack would be much better. Preferably 40C minimum.
#525
Some months back Danny said that the cells are available for those packs but the case requires a new mold, so demand has to go up to make it happen.



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