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any update on a new speedy?
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I do have another question though. Like I mentioned before I recently purchased a brand new LRP 'FLow' Competition one. Blacked out the wires (changed/soldered off the Rx wires and the motor and battery wires to black ones) So I hooked up the all my electronics to my Futaba Rx, turns things on... The Blue light on the ESC turns on, my Rx turns on and my servo works fine. But I have no throttle or esc response. Any help is highly appreciated. Thank you:) |
Originally Posted by Michael@USPN
(Post 14254566)
Thank you very much will be making an order.
I do have another question though. Like I mentioned before I recently purchased a brand new LRP 'FLow' Competition one. Blacked out the wires (changed/soldered off the Rx wires and the motor and battery wires to black ones) So I hooked up the all my electronics to my Futaba Rx, turns things on... The Blue light on the ESC turns on, my Rx turns on and my servo works fine. But I have no throttle or esc response. Any help is highly appreciated. Thank you:) |
Originally Posted by Michael@USPN
(Post 14254566)
Thank you very much will be making an order.
I do have another question though. Like I mentioned before I recently purchased a brand new LRP 'FLow' Competition one. Blacked out the wires (changed/soldered off the Rx wires and the motor and battery wires to black ones) So I hooked up the all my electronics to my Futaba Rx, turns things on... The Blue light on the ESC turns on, my Rx turns on and my servo works fine. But I have no throttle or esc response. Any help is highly appreciated. Thank you:) |
First do a factory reset and after that calibrate.
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Originally Posted by Govert
(Post 14254719)
First do a factory reset and after that calibrate.
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Originally Posted by Michael@USPN
(Post 14254852)
When I press and hold the set button, nothing happens. But if I press and hold the mode button, I do get the different mode lights.
First turn off the esc. Now, press and hold SET button, switch on esc while still pressing SET button. Release after 1 or 2 seconds after you had switched the esc on. Now you did a factory reset, it is needed before you can calibrate the esc (in your situation it is needed because you are not able to calibrate). Switch esc off. Do this procedure (resetting) 5 times, just to be sure. After this, try to calibrate the esc again (by pressing and holding down set button for a few seconds) |
Originally Posted by oldrcr
(Post 14157267)
so was it more or less power difference with the reventon pro?
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I know I'm beating a dead horse with this comment, but here it goes.
1s capability - Does the firmware affect whether or not it can operate under 1s power? i.e old firmware vs new? I noticed Donny Lia's 1/12th at the 2014 IFMAR worlds was equipped with an LRP Flow standard cap and no booster. http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/u...LiaRebel-1.jpg I currently run almost an identical setup to his. Just wondering if it's feasible to remove the booster and save some room? |
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
(Post 14260155)
I know I'm beating a dead horse with this comment, but here it goes.
1s capability - Does the firmware affect whether or not it can operate under 1s power? i.e old firmware vs new? I noticed Donny Lia's 1/12th at the 2014 IFMAR worlds was equipped with an LRP Flow standard cap and no booster. http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/u...LiaRebel-1.jpg I currently run almost an identical setup to his. Just wondering if it's feasible to remove the booster and save some room? servo choice mades the biggest difference. some servos appear to run slower. i've decided to run a booster. |
Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
(Post 14260155)
I know I'm beating a dead horse with this comment, but here it goes.
1s capability - Does the firmware affect whether or not it can operate under 1s power? i.e old firmware vs new? I noticed Donny Lia's 1/12th at the 2014 IFMAR worlds was equipped with an LRP Flow standard cap and no booster. http://events.redrc.net/wp-content/u...LiaRebel-1.jpg I currently run almost an identical setup to his. Just wondering if it's feasible to remove the booster and save some room? |
I'm having the same issue as above.
When i turn on the esc i get a solid blue light. No amount of resets seems to rectify the issue. I've even tried re flashing the software |
Originally Posted by Michael@USPN
(Post 14254566)
I do have another question though. Like I mentioned before I recently purchased a brand new LRP 'FLow' Competition one. Blacked out the wires (changed/soldered off the Rx wires and the motor and battery wires to black ones) So I hooked up the all my electronics to my Futaba Rx, turns things on... The Blue light on the ESC turns on, my Rx turns on and my servo works fine. But I have no throttle or esc response. Any help is highly appreciated. Thank you:)
Originally Posted by millbank
(Post 14277569)
I'm having the same issue as above.
When i turn on the esc i get a solid blue light. No amount of resets seems to rectify the issue. I've even tried re flashing the software The problem is, the rx solder tabs on the pcb of your FLow are very close to each other. Even a single flaw can disturb the solder joint. What I do in this case is get a magnifying glass, some bright light, and inspect the solder joint area. Get a clean toothbrush and dip it in 100%-ish alcohol and start scrubbing/cleaning the area. After cleaning, inspect the area again and be sure any solder or flux residu is gone. Even the flux residu can cause problems I found out. Try this first and see what happens. Plan B: unsolder en re-solder. Take your time and use the proper tools and materials. Worst case: Solder job too hot and damaged the pcb. |
anyone using the lrp sxx v2 in the 12th scale for mod. I have a lrp 5.5 in my car and my speedo get so hot I even poped one.
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Originally Posted by gearhead_22
(Post 14279052)
anyone using the lrp sxx v2 in the 12th scale for mod. I have a lrp 5.5 in my car and my speedo get so hot I even poped one.
4.5 X12, 27.5 * No boost Esc temp, 150 Motor temp 105 96x26 |
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