Speed Passion Thread
#5522
Tech Regular
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 425
From: Tucson, AZ
By running mode do you mean profile (ie. Stock o, mod 1, etc...). To change these you will need to connect it to a pc and download the new profile. Then you can change the settings. It's super easy, only takes like 5 minutes to swap profiles.
#5525
First you want the ESC clamped upside-down firmly so it cannot move and then heat each solder point quickly as you pull the wire down. When it's hot enough it will slide right out and you will either have a clean hole which is what you want, or some solder will still reside there, which you can reheat and then blow hard on it to clear all solder, leaving it perfectly clean.
From there you want to measure you're wire and CLEANLY strip off just BARELY over 1/16" of the insulation on all your wires and then twist the exposed end firmly for pre-tinning. You want your exposed leads tinned sparingly rather than feed a crapload of solder into the wire. Once tinned, test fit the wire into the holes to ensure they sold right in. If they don't you can lightly crimp them down a tad with pliers so they seat all the way down to the insulation, making extra sure no strands hang out anywhere. Once everything is all set, slide your leads into their corresponding holes and use an alligator clip to hold the leads as you solder them because they will be too hot to hold with you hands. From there, place a touch of flux on the already inserted lead and enlist some assistance to feed solder into the hole as you apply heat with your iron. Again, ensuring you don't use too much solder.
When done right it will look just like a factory solder point, a very clean mirror like droplet.
#5526
Tech Master
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,025
From: The 561
Not at all. You just want a very high temp Soldering Iron and you want to use flux when re-soldering.
First you want the ESC clamped upside-down firmly so it cannot move and then heat each solder point quickly as you pull the wire down. When it's hot enough it will slide right out and you will either have a clean hole which is what you want, or some solder will still reside there, which you can reheat and then blow hard on it to clear all solder, leaving it perfectly clean.
From there you want to measure you're wire and CLEANLY strip off just BARELY over 1/16" of the insulation on all your wires and then twist the exposed end firmly for pre-tinning. You want your exposed leads tinned sparingly rather than feed a crapload of solder into the wire. Once tinned, test fit the wire into the holes to ensure they sold right in. If they don't you can lightly crimp them down a tad with pliers so they seat all the way down to the insulation, making extra sure no strands hang out anywhere. Once everything is all set, slide your leads into their corresponding holes and use an alligator clip to hold the leads as you solder them because they will be too hot to hold with you hands. From there, place a touch of flux on the already inserted lead and enlist some assistance to feed solder into the hole as you apply heat with your iron. Again, ensuring you don't use too much solder.
When done right it will look just like a factory solder point, a very clean mirror like droplet.
First you want the ESC clamped upside-down firmly so it cannot move and then heat each solder point quickly as you pull the wire down. When it's hot enough it will slide right out and you will either have a clean hole which is what you want, or some solder will still reside there, which you can reheat and then blow hard on it to clear all solder, leaving it perfectly clean.
From there you want to measure you're wire and CLEANLY strip off just BARELY over 1/16" of the insulation on all your wires and then twist the exposed end firmly for pre-tinning. You want your exposed leads tinned sparingly rather than feed a crapload of solder into the wire. Once tinned, test fit the wire into the holes to ensure they sold right in. If they don't you can lightly crimp them down a tad with pliers so they seat all the way down to the insulation, making extra sure no strands hang out anywhere. Once everything is all set, slide your leads into their corresponding holes and use an alligator clip to hold the leads as you solder them because they will be too hot to hold with you hands. From there, place a touch of flux on the already inserted lead and enlist some assistance to feed solder into the hole as you apply heat with your iron. Again, ensuring you don't use too much solder.
When done right it will look just like a factory solder point, a very clean mirror like droplet.
#5527
The search feature on the mobile site needs work, so I apologize if this is a repeat question. Is there anyone using the 4.0 motors in their offroad cars? Just concerned about using bullets. Thanks!
#5530
I'm running a V4 8.5 in my SC10 2wd with no problems at all. Also ran the same motor in a B4.2 for one race and it was fine. If the bullets do get loose you can use a tapered pick to slightly open them up.
#5534
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,569
From: My house.
Having issues with a GT LPF v1.1 when running sensored. It doesn't spin the motor most of the time, if I pull and release the throttle then sometimes it works. Tried several sensor cables and working motors.
Opened it and haven't seem any popped FETs or damage, ESC works correctly in unsensored but seemed kind off weak (read not much more powerful than my GM80r + 8.5 motor) with the original 5.5 Feigao motor powering a ZX5.
Opened it and haven't seem any popped FETs or damage, ESC works correctly in unsensored but seemed kind off weak (read not much more powerful than my GM80r + 8.5 motor) with the original 5.5 Feigao motor powering a ZX5.
#5535
I have a 3 month old reventon club stock that just stopped working recently. I've tried contacting SP about it and been directed to leave a message with my number and someone will call me back after being on hold for about 10 minutes. Has anyone discovered how to reach them? This seems very bad.



4Likes