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Old 06-30-2015 | 04:54 PM
  #5521  
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Default Program

I have a new reventon pro 1.1 and I can't change the running mode with the program box. It will scroll trough other settings but not the running mode.
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Old 06-30-2015 | 08:31 PM
  #5522  
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Originally Posted by AccessRacer
I have a new reventon pro 1.1 and I can't change the running mode with the program box. It will scroll trough other settings but not the running mode.
By running mode do you mean profile (ie. Stock o, mod 1, etc...). To change these you will need to connect it to a pc and download the new profile. Then you can change the settings. It's super easy, only takes like 5 minutes to swap profiles.
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Old 07-13-2015 | 07:20 AM
  #5523  
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How difficult is it to re-solder the wires on a Reventon R. I had them cut extremely short for a particular application and now I'd like to use it in another vehicle that requires longer wires.
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Old 07-13-2015 | 07:40 AM
  #5524  
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Default Reventon Pro 1.1 repair

Guys, I have 1.1 that was cross connected and no longer works. Has anyone sent one in for repair past the warranty period? If so, how much was the bill? Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2015 | 09:54 AM
  #5525  
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Originally Posted by Hinecken
How difficult is it to re-solder the wires on a Reventon R. I had them cut extremely short for a particular application and now I'd like to use it in another vehicle that requires longer wires.
Not at all. You just want a very high temp Soldering Iron and you want to use flux when re-soldering.

First you want the ESC clamped upside-down firmly so it cannot move and then heat each solder point quickly as you pull the wire down. When it's hot enough it will slide right out and you will either have a clean hole which is what you want, or some solder will still reside there, which you can reheat and then blow hard on it to clear all solder, leaving it perfectly clean.

From there you want to measure you're wire and CLEANLY strip off just BARELY over 1/16" of the insulation on all your wires and then twist the exposed end firmly for pre-tinning. You want your exposed leads tinned sparingly rather than feed a crapload of solder into the wire. Once tinned, test fit the wire into the holes to ensure they sold right in. If they don't you can lightly crimp them down a tad with pliers so they seat all the way down to the insulation, making extra sure no strands hang out anywhere. Once everything is all set, slide your leads into their corresponding holes and use an alligator clip to hold the leads as you solder them because they will be too hot to hold with you hands. From there, place a touch of flux on the already inserted lead and enlist some assistance to feed solder into the hole as you apply heat with your iron. Again, ensuring you don't use too much solder.

When done right it will look just like a factory solder point, a very clean mirror like droplet.
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Old 07-13-2015 | 10:45 AM
  #5526  
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Originally Posted by the incubus
Not at all. You just want a very high temp Soldering Iron and you want to use flux when re-soldering.

First you want the ESC clamped upside-down firmly so it cannot move and then heat each solder point quickly as you pull the wire down. When it's hot enough it will slide right out and you will either have a clean hole which is what you want, or some solder will still reside there, which you can reheat and then blow hard on it to clear all solder, leaving it perfectly clean.

From there you want to measure you're wire and CLEANLY strip off just BARELY over 1/16" of the insulation on all your wires and then twist the exposed end firmly for pre-tinning. You want your exposed leads tinned sparingly rather than feed a crapload of solder into the wire. Once tinned, test fit the wire into the holes to ensure they sold right in. If they don't you can lightly crimp them down a tad with pliers so they seat all the way down to the insulation, making extra sure no strands hang out anywhere. Once everything is all set, slide your leads into their corresponding holes and use an alligator clip to hold the leads as you solder them because they will be too hot to hold with you hands. From there, place a touch of flux on the already inserted lead and enlist some assistance to feed solder into the hole as you apply heat with your iron. Again, ensuring you don't use too much solder.

When done right it will look just like a factory solder point, a very clean mirror like droplet.
Thanks!! I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to write that
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Old 07-15-2015 | 07:00 PM
  #5527  
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Default 4.0 motors

The search feature on the mobile site needs work, so I apologize if this is a repeat question. Is there anyone using the 4.0 motors in their offroad cars? Just concerned about using bullets. Thanks!
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Old 07-15-2015 | 07:10 PM
  #5528  
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I am still waiting for my repair which I paid fo in March. No communication any longer.
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Old 07-15-2015 | 07:38 PM
  #5529  
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Originally Posted by eragot
I am still waiting for my repair which I paid fo in March. No communication any longer.
What service did you pay for? If I may ask, how much also?
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Old 07-15-2015 | 10:31 PM
  #5530  
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Originally Posted by BigRon
The search feature on the mobile site needs work, so I apologize if this is a repeat question. Is there anyone using the 4.0 motors in their offroad cars? Just concerned about using bullets. Thanks!
I'm running a V4 8.5 in my SC10 2wd with no problems at all. Also ran the same motor in a B4.2 for one race and it was fine. If the bullets do get loose you can use a tapered pick to slightly open them up.
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Old 07-16-2015 | 04:44 AM
  #5531  
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Cost to repair was $59.99
Cost to replace was $69.99
Reventon Pro 1.1

I chose the $59.99 option
For a prior repair (don't ask) I chose the replacement option and got a new one very quickly.
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Old 07-16-2015 | 05:35 AM
  #5532  
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Was that within the warranty period. 120 days I think. Mine is older than that. If not, that's a good deal. Replacement seems to be the better option.
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Old 07-16-2015 | 07:04 AM
  #5533  
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Out of warranty.
In retrospect, I would choose replacement.

Originally Posted by BigRon
Was that within the warranty period. 120 days I think. Mine is older than that. If not, that's a good deal. Replacement seems to be the better option.
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Old 07-20-2015 | 03:39 PM
  #5534  
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Having issues with a GT LPF v1.1 when running sensored. It doesn't spin the motor most of the time, if I pull and release the throttle then sometimes it works. Tried several sensor cables and working motors.

Opened it and haven't seem any popped FETs or damage, ESC works correctly in unsensored but seemed kind off weak (read not much more powerful than my GM80r + 8.5 motor) with the original 5.5 Feigao motor powering a ZX5.
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Old 07-20-2015 | 11:36 PM
  #5535  
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I have a 3 month old reventon club stock that just stopped working recently. I've tried contacting SP about it and been directed to leave a message with my number and someone will call me back after being on hold for about 10 minutes. Has anyone discovered how to reach them? This seems very bad.
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