Just installed my third viper system in my x-factory truck love me some viper products. Is there ever any talk of a blue tooth pro gauge that would be so nice maybe even some data recording capabilities.

Bluetooth is difficult because to put the blue tooth chips in the speed control it makes them bigger.

We have talked about data logging, but it would have to be useable data. Something racers can easily use to understand the set up and see whAt a change does. Recording maximums, or short times doesn't really give you information you need.

Is it possible to run a smaller capacitor, like an aftermarket one, on a vtx10be? The pro6 is so massive, I have no where to fit it on my b5m.

The BE come with these from factory. Any reason why your not using it?
http://hobbyauthority-dist.com/viper...-1000uf-16v-3/

Question... is there any performance gain for me to run a VTX10R vs VTX10 in 21.5 sedan? will these motors benefit from the added amperage available?

I wonder that too about 21.5 .

I remember back in the old days escs will really low resistance performed better than ones with more, hence the more racing oriented ones were used in spec classes. wonder if than can apply now.

I missed out on the Viper VF 4500kv motor sale as they are all out of stock now. I was wondering if anyone running the VF4 (4000kv) motor in their TLR SCTE 2.0 or Tekno SCT410? If so, what do you think about it?

Also, there are zero reviews for the Viper VF4 motors on Amain.com or other online site I looked it. So if you own one of the motors it would be awesome to get some feedback out their for any potential customers that might be interested in Viper.

Thanks,

I got one still in the box due to the weather here.

However the review that got me off the fence to try it was really good.

In theory, the more amp draw the motor is capable of, the more FETs you want to handle it. If you reverse that, a low amp draw, requires less, which is why you do see "stock" only esc's with less FETs (i.e. lower prices). With that being said its still only a part of the equation, nowadays software is so important into how a system works. We all know it can't just be an on/off switch you need throttle control, even with low amp motors.

99% of us (engineers will probably tell you 99.9%) would not feel an actually difference weather using VTX10R, VTX10, or VTX1 with a 21.5 motor -- everything being equal. Theory tells us, the VTX1 would be best application, it fast lower FET amounts than others, technically little lighter weight with smaller profile.

I DID manage to get one of the 4500 motors for dirt cheap and I can relay what I felt about it. I was running a 4000kV hobbywing in my Tekno SCT410 before I got the Viper. My Tekno is pretty much stock with very little done to lighten it up. I run a VTX8 with SMC 6500 mAh 70C packs. I changed absolutely nothing on the ESC or gearing when switching from the HW 4000 to the Viper 4500 and they felt VERY similar to me. The Viper might have been just a tad smoother at the low end. Both the HW and the Viper are way too much for my driving skill and the track layout we are currently running on (tight indoor clay). For what I paid for the Viper it was an absolute and utter steal. Hope this helps.

if the viper runs in that manner comparable to a 4000kv HW (which I have here and love) then I will be in love lol.

Thank you that helps. I have a HW 4000kv and a Tekin 4300kv, so having a comparison between the Viper and the HW really helps.

I still might give the Viper 4000kv a try but I was hoping to wait until the 4500kv is available again. It sounds like that would be the motor that fits my driving style and similar to the other motors I have ran in my 4wd trucks.

Thanks again,

thank you..makes sense..

So i picked up a viper BE 17.5 and ht rotor . My last motor was a killshot double torque 17.5 and I had the gearing at 75/28 with 48* timing and this be 17.5 I tired the stock rotor first and it came off at about 180 can heat 172 end bell heat. Ajusted the timing down to 20 from 40 went about 4 min and it was at 180 can 170 endbell. So i figured I'd throw the 12.5 rotor in and heat went back up to 190 after about 5-6min. Played with timing but still bad heat. Thought It might be something in my gear box/diff so I stripped it completely and cleaned/checked all bearings and inspected the gears for rocks exc. There was not any notice of binding. Even replaced a topshaft bearing to be 100% sure. Put it all back together and got the same heat.
Anyone else having heat issues? It's in a mm sct tight indoor clay track

I am using sanwa rx461. No glitch buster. What do you mean turn the wheels slowly? Throttle or steering.

I do notice when I turn the steering, there is a slight fade on the viper main swicth.