I tried unplugging the servo, I do not see any issue.

I mean turn the steering slowly with wheels off the ground.

I have never experienced the v-port lights dimming, only receiver lights when I had a crazy servo. The glitch buster fixed that issue.

Maybe Nick can shed some light on possible causes for the indicator lights dimming.

Picked up another vtx10r. Got it from a good buddy of mine that is getting out of the hobby, he bought it from amain last spring. Well I decided to put it in my 2wd mod buggy and raced last weekend. I had a orion r10 pro in it prior but I bought a 4wd car and put the orion in that. Problem is the viper seems way under powered compared to my orion. Using the same motor as well. I hooked up the progauge and it has damm A30 software. Im really surprised it has that old of software since it was just bought not even a year ago. Is there another way to get this thing more power? I really don't feel like buying a ezlink to change the software. Is there any other way to change it?

You can try finding someone local that has one and let them update it for you. Viper will take them if you ship it back and update it. You could also try lowering the throttle frequency. It's probably set pretty high and feels really smooth. Lowering it will give you a bit more kick in the shorts.

Yeah I'm not to familiar with vipers vocabulary in terms with the pro gauge. No idea what half of it means. Basically I use Dustin Evans 2011 reedy setup for my r10 setting. And really can't figure out how two to translate the terminology between the 2

http://www.viper-rc.com/vtx10_r.php

Download the manual on the right

I do believe you are correct thou, I think it's way to smooth. But it also seems to to lacking on top end compared to my r10. Again this is with using the same motor when I had my r10 . It's a peak 8.5 vst2. Basically a orion vst2

Get that Progauge plugged into it. I bet the previous user had turned some things down. Getting the firmware updated will be a noticeable difference but dropping the punch down, running the throttle frequency really high, turning the motor power down...all these things will make it feel pretty soft too. Just getting onto the right profile to start off will make a difference.

Did you calibrate the esc?

When you hit full throttle does the F light stay solid on the v port? (It will blink all the way up until full lock)

http://youtu.be/H3FfFS-mThk

Another thing may be that the punch is limited etc, best bet would be for sure to try and find someone with the software/hardware to update, or to find someone with an EZ link or progauge to check the other settings.

Can someone please explain this with me.

I ran this thing all night. My last motor was a killshot double torque 17.5 and I had the gearing at 75/28 with 48* timing and this be 17.5 I tired the stock rotor first and it came off at about 180 can heat 172 end bell heat. Ajusted the timing down to 20 from 40 went about 4 min and it was at 180 can 170 endbell. So i figured I'd throw the 12.5 rotor in and heat went back up to 190 after about 5-6min. Played with timing but still bad heat. Thought It might be something in my gear box/diff so I stripped it completely and cleaned/checked all bearings and inspected the gears for rocks exc. There was not any notice of binding. Even replaced a topshaft bearing to be 100% sure. Put it all back together and got the same heat.

It's it a big track with long straights? Maybe it is under geared.

Track is about 45'×80' with a 50' straght. The rest is kinda tight with decent flow. Fast scts running 15.8sec laps

We run on a fairly tight similarly sized track but my kid is running a Tekin 17.5. He is running a 31 tooth pinion in his B5M with a 69 tooth spur. Seems like you might be quite a way undergeared. Maybe try stepping up in pinion size slowly while closely monitoring your motor temps. Also, if you are running any ESC timing turn them off and just run motor timing.

in general when I was not boosting a motor I would use a gearing method that the Late Big Jim told me, one of the premier motor men before he passed away.

I would basically gear my vehicle to top out towards the end of the longest straight and then adjust my gearing based on temps. In general this method would get me close to the gearing I needed, with more often than not being spot on for heavier vehicles.

I went though my gearbox again last night just to be even more sure. No binding. Looked up gearing for my truck and said 7.5 fdr which would be 75/26. My esc us still cold but the motor is still way to hot. Do these motors like timing? Where should a set timing? And your saying that going to 75/27-28 is going to drop heat?