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You didn't like my settings lol
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 13293183)
You didn't like my settings lol
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It's because it knows you were cheating on it!
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lo, perhaps. the timing it right. :)
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 13293057)
So until recently, I have really like the braking on my vipers. Not to say the braking is bad, but I recently found myself iwth another brand esc, because the price was too good to pass up. I really really like the brakes on brandx esc and I would like to tune my brakes on the vipers to match. I assume we would do this with a combination of the max brake and the pwm for breaking. I am looking for strong medium speed brakes, than are not grabby, not too soft. I have played with just the max brake, and that wont get it done alone. I think I need to lower my braking pwm some. This is for 17.5 buggy. We have this rythm section the finishes off with a 90 deg turn, I need to be able to brake on the downside and turn left. Currently, my brakes either lock up and dont seem to work and I over shoot the corner. Anything have some good brake settings for 17.5 for good low to medium speed breaking.
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 13294227)
Wildcat - typically I will start with the Brake Strength at 100, Brake Freq at 4000, and Brake EPA (on radio) between 80-100 depending on traction. More Brake Freq or lower EPA will help to reduce lock up. Might be a little of a combination. Probably different from track to track depending on braking needs.
I run on what most of the country would call low bite. We almost always have to share the track with 8th scales. I found that setting the Brake PWM higher (above 4000mhz) would help prevent me from locking the wheels up when I had to mash the brakes. When doing this, I sacrificed low speed braking, so I changed things up and went back down on my PWM and lowered the EPA to get the desired effect of less wheel lock up. What I'm getting at is that there are endless combinations to get the same end result. You need to try several methods and stick with them for a while and determine which is best for you. |
When do you think the VF4's will hit the Hobbyshops
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 13294711)
Just to add to what Nick is saying...
I run on what most of the country would call low bite. We almost always have to share the track with 8th scales. I found that setting the Brake PWM higher (above 4000mhz) would help prevent me from locking the wheels up when I had to mash the brakes. When doing this, I sacrificed low speed braking, so I changed things up and went back down on my PWM and lowered the EPA to get the desired effect of less wheel lock up. What I'm getting at is that there are endless combinations to get the same end result. You need to try several methods and stick with them for a while and determine which is best for you. |
Brakes? We don't use those on 1/8th scales lol
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Yeah! That is what the guy in front of me is for. Whackkk! Sorry I didn't mean to hit you. LOL!
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Originally Posted by Chris Reilly
(Post 13295271)
Yeah! That is what the guy in front of me is for. Whackkk! Sorry I didn't mean to hit you. LOL!
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Originally Posted by boborc
(Post 13294786)
When do you think the VF4's will hit the Hobbyshops
Edit -- I am told there is one VF4.40 (4000kv) left - first one to order from shopviper site wins!! |
vtx8 problem please help!!!
I'm running a vtx8 with a Tekin Pro4 4600 on 2 cell. I have setup on preset number 3. It worked fine. Then I put a battery in it to test a motor fan I added and when I turned the esc on it showed only one red light. The one of the two together on the opposite of the f-n-r lights. It did not startup. I had to unplug it to get it to do anything. Then when I turned back on it did the startuo sequence and stopped on that solid red light again. It would turn off with a 3 second hold but would not even power the esc or motor fan and did not power the motor or servo. I tried all other components with an orion r8 pro and they all worked. I also tried re-binding my receiver and even tried hooking up everything to a system and it did the same thing. When it turns on and goes to the red light, if I push the button it will light up a solid neutral light but nothing works. If I push the button again it will switch to the solid forward and reverse lights. No throttle or servo. Im stumped. I set the box to setting 3 like I said as well as being on "race open" of course I saved the settings and it said complete. I am stumped please help!!! Rc pro in garland, tx is friday and I really do not want to buy another esc...
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flysullivan - check your PM
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Originally Posted by flysullivan
(Post 13295973)
I'm running a vtx8 with a Tekin Pro4 4600 on 2 cell. I have setup on preset number 3. It worked fine. Then I put a battery in it to test a motor fan I added and when I turned the esc on it showed only one red light. The one of the two together on the opposite of the f-n-r lights. It did not startup. I had to unplug it to get it to do anything. Then when I turned back on it did the startuo sequence and stopped on that solid red light again. It would turn off with a 3 second hold but would not even power the esc or motor fan and did not power the motor or servo. I tried all other components with an orion r8 pro and they all worked. I also tried re-binding my receiver and even tried hooking up everything to a system and it did the same thing. When it turns on and goes to the red light, if I push the button it will light up a solid neutral light but nothing works. If I push the button again it will switch to the solid forward and reverse lights. No throttle or servo. Im stumped. I set the box to setting 3 like I said as well as being on "race open" of course I saved the settings and it said complete. I am stumped please help!!! Rc pro in garland, tx is friday and I really do not want to buy another esc...
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