Viper RC -
Tech Regular
Nikos, what is the maximum of degrees the Motor should able to handle? I dont want to disable the protection, because of my nervous 'nitro-finger' on The throttle
Had a small test drive today and it seems to be the Motor tempetature cut off is the problem. Which adjustments can i do, to lower it? PWM down on both, throttle ans brake..?
Thanx for help...
.
Had a small test drive today and it seems to be the Motor tempetature cut off is the problem. Which adjustments can i do, to lower it? PWM down on both, throttle ans brake..?
Thanx for help...
.
When I first set up my VTX10R/VTS13.5 combo I set the thermal cutoff at 180 and I was hitting the cutoff about 3 minutes into the run. the external motor temp was at 120.
Have some bad news. My first viper vtx10r broke after 3 laps a few weeks ago, but was sold from ebay second used, so no warranty. Bought a new one, did 1 race, now, nothing anymore, can't turn him on anymore, think bad switch? Tryed everything... Think this says enough about the products? I really love the feeling of the Viper, but when it has to go this way, where are the GOOD vipers? SEND ME ONE !
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
Have some bad news. My first viper vtx10r broke after 3 laps a few weeks ago, but was sold from ebay second used, so no warranty. Bought a new one, did 1 race, now, nothing anymore, can't turn him on anymore, think bad switch? Tryed everything... Think this says enough about the products? I really love the feeling of the Viper, but when it has to go this way, where are the GOOD vipers? SEND ME ONE !
Checked everything so good, because my first broke already, and now a broken switch? That I can't even replace, because it's a special V-port switch Hope this is under warranty.... Damn, will never buy this crap again
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
top quality
I have the same three I bought originally that came with A19. Upgraded along the way and have never had issues. 2 vtx10's, and 1 vtx10r. I just bought a vtx10be and have yet to run it. I have also tested and run the Vtx8 through the whole process. I love how easy they are to program and how smooth yet small they are as well. Best money ever spent. Every product has a few issues. but Nick and Willie are great to work with.
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
how did you break the switch?
One thing I would like to see viper do in a future revision would be to incorporate the switch into the ESC for say the VTX8, and for the 1/10 units maybe offer a removeable switch along the lines of there EZ link plug and play setups.
One thing I would like to see viper do in a future revision would be to incorporate the switch into the ESC for say the VTX8, and for the 1/10 units maybe offer a removeable switch along the lines of there EZ link plug and play setups.
Tech Prophet
iTrader: (84)
You could be having bad luck, but IMO its probably user error. when someone continually has issues, most of the time it is the user. I suppose you could have a bad motor that is frying your esc's or maybe you are just very unlucky. I fired one brushless esc since they came out and that one died when the motor died and killed the esc along with it.
You could be having bad luck, but IMO its probably user error. when someone continually has issues, most of the time it is the user. I suppose you could have a bad motor that is frying your esc's or maybe you are just very unlucky. I fired one brushless esc since they came out and that one died when the motor died and killed the esc along with it.
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
E-Scale!!!
What type of E-Buggy are you gonna run? I'm running a Viper 2100KV in my EB48 and a Viper 1900KV in my MIP Pro8. The 1900KV is amazing!!! This past weekend ran a Viper 2100kv in my Truggy and finished up with similar lap times to guys that had 2650KV in them.
As for new motors crapping out, I had a brand new Tekin RX Pro and 8.5 combo that crapped out with in 5 mins. I then swapped the ESC and the motor blew the other ESC as well. Thank god for warranty.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
As Mark stated - unfortunately yes, anything brand new, might even have the chance of failing. Would like to say electronics from any brand are perfect, but we know they are not. And as Mark said, we have seen a bad motor take out multiple units - its a possibility. If you are getting no lights on the system at all, verifying all power connections are good, when you plug the battery into the esc - do you get that little spark of a connection? If you do, and it doesn't light up, it may be the VPort (switch), if you don't, its something more internal. If it meets the warranty criteria, please send it in, we don't get a large amount of failures so everyone is studied to look for ways to make sure it doesn't happen in the future.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
Nikos, what is the maximum of degrees the Motor should able to handle? I dont want to disable the protection, because of my nervous 'nitro-finger' on The throttle
Had a small test drive today and it seems to be the Motor tempetature cut off is the problem. Which adjustments can i do, to lower it? PWM down on both, throttle ans brake..?
Thanx for help...
.
Had a small test drive today and it seems to be the Motor tempetature cut off is the problem. Which adjustments can i do, to lower it? PWM down on both, throttle ans brake..?
Thanx for help...
.
Lowering Punch, can help some, if your spinning your wheels and sliding around on the throttle your wasting energy, creating heat. May be fun, but not effective. If you overshoot the corners and have to slam on the brakes to stop all the time -- again, not efficient, creates extra heat. Throttle Freq too low can cause heat. Similar to punch, these motors will create torque, no need to try and "force" torque into the system. If you feel like you can driver around the whole track at full throttle and never let off -- that is going to create too much heat - gear up, so you have to let the car roll in places. Too low can create heat just like too high.
Tech Champion
iTrader: (30)
I bought it from A Main on Feb 17th, is it still under warranty?
Funny thing, I can run for 1, 2, 3, 5 minutes as long as I do not use the breaks. Once I use the breaks I loose forward. Something is wrong because I can not turn it off. If I hold the button down, nothing happens. Once I turn it on, it goes through the boot, then the red LED just flashes. I can not get it into program mode or turn off.
Buzz.
Funny thing, I can run for 1, 2, 3, 5 minutes as long as I do not use the breaks. Once I use the breaks I loose forward. Something is wrong because I can not turn it off. If I hold the button down, nothing happens. Once I turn it on, it goes through the boot, then the red LED just flashes. I can not get it into program mode or turn off.
Buzz.
Tech Adept
With the radio off, I plug the battery in, press the red button, turns on, goes through boot, all lights flash, I get the (2) tones, then the forward and reverse lights flash twice. Then it does nothing. I can hold the button down for a minute, nothing happens. It does not turn off by the button.
I have made no changes to the radio in 3 weeks. I was on the second battery of the day, then I lost forward. Had to back up off the track. Tried to hold button to turn off, nope. Un plugged then re plugged the battery all was good for 10 to 15 minutes. Worked as it is suppose to. Then I lost forward again. After that, it started to loose forward when ever the breaks were touched.
I just tried it again, this time I moved the trigger forward and back and it still did the same thing. Very strange.
Buzz.
I have made no changes to the radio in 3 weeks. I was on the second battery of the day, then I lost forward. Had to back up off the track. Tried to hold button to turn off, nope. Un plugged then re plugged the battery all was good for 10 to 15 minutes. Worked as it is suppose to. Then I lost forward again. After that, it started to loose forward when ever the breaks were touched.
I just tried it again, this time I moved the trigger forward and back and it still did the same thing. Very strange.
Buzz.