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hey nikos2002, what on the burner next for Viper?
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Currently looking at getting the vtx8, I've had both a RX8 and MMP go out in my tekno. My main concern is being able to limit torque while not affecting top speed. I really liked how the RX8 was setup in the hotwire app, and the MMP was horrible at torque limiting. Is the viper easy to adjust torque?
I plan to pick up the combo ESC and Program card, my other concern is how smooth or liner is the throttle profile? When comparing the RX8 to MMP, the RX8 felt more aggressive, were as the MMP felt a little more laid back. I preferred the MMP honestly but its other features really bothered me. I know you can adjust the throttle profile but both the RX8 and MMP were set to a straight liner profile. I hope that makes sense, I'm not a very good driver, and the aggressive nature of the RX8 did not help me to much. One last question, I promise. How is the Cut off setup? The RX8 Gen 1 only had one setting of 6v where as the MMP could be fine tuned to different settings. Does the viper allow fine tuning of the Cut off volts? |
Originally Posted by Darkgenerals
(Post 12904955)
Currently looking at getting the vtx8, I've had both a RX8 and MMP go out in my tekno. My main concern is being able to limit torque while not affecting top speed. I really liked how the RX8 was setup in the hotwire app, and the MMP was horrible at torque limiting. Is the viper easy to adjust torque?
I plan to pick up the combo ESC and Program card, my other concern is how smooth or liner is the throttle profile? When comparing the RX8 to MMP, the RX8 felt more aggressive, were as the MMP felt a little more laid back. I preferred the MMP honestly but its other features really bothered me. I know you can adjust the throttle profile but both the RX8 and MMP were set to a straight liner profile. I hope that makes sense, I'm not a very good driver, and the aggressive nature of the RX8 did not help me to much. One last question, I promise. How is the Cut off setup? The RX8 Gen 1 only had one setting of 6v where as the MMP could be fine tuned to different settings. Does the viper allow fine tuning of the Cut off volts? I've ran Castle MMP and MMM, Tekin RX8's and now the Viper. Cutoff voltage can be adjusted to the 10th using the Progauge. Adjusting punch control and throttle PWM will give you a very smooth, or very aggressive throttle feel, as well as using either a linear, or convex/concave profile. Not to mention, its solid as a rock. I have 2 of them that have been in use for almost a year now running in an RC8 E buggy, and a Tekno SCT. |
1 Attachment(s)
I'm wondering if i'm lost to much front drive with this setup.
Could the 5. Forward Power – 75% be holding it back or the 2. Throttle Punch – 95% My radio epa is set on 100% I just need a little more power in some spots. ELECTRONICS ESC: VTX8 Battery: Servo(s): Radiopost Radio: 4pks-r Motor: Tekin 2050 Pinion:17 Spur 44 1 Profile one 4WD 1/8 with 4S Li-Po and 4-pole motor Brake 1. Brake Strength – 85% 2. Brake PWM Frequency– 12000hz 3. Brake Curve – Linear a. Smart Brake System • Dynamic Brake o Max Brake Strength – 0% o Dynamic Curve – Linear o Trigger RPM – 12000 RPM • Drag Brake – 30% Throttle 1. Throttle PWM Frequency – 16000hz 2. Throttle Punch – 95% 3. Throttle Curve – -Exp2 4. Dead Band – Middle Motor Power 1. Acceleration Boost – not on 2. Top Speed Timing – not on Misc Control 1. Run Mode – Race Blinking 2. Motor Direction – Normal 3. Motor Type – 4 Pole 4. SBEC Voltage – 7.2v 5. Forward Power – 75% 6. Reverse Power – not on 7. Auto Power Off – 4min Protection 1. Battery Cut Off – 12.8v 2. Motor Temperature Cut – 250F 3. ESC Temperature Cut – 250F or could it be my diff set up. I'm running 4f 4c 750cst rear. My track is Blown out bad reason for the light diff oil setup. Thanx for the help. |
Originally Posted by Motorman007
(Post 12905034)
I'm wondering if i'm lost to much front drive with this setup.
Could the 5. Forward Power 75% be holding it back or the 2. Throttle Punch 95% My radio epa is set on 100% I just need a little more power in some spots. ELECTRONICS ESC: VTX8 Battery: Servo(s): Radiopost Radio: 4pks-r Motor: Tekin 2050 1 Profile one 4WD 1/8 with 4S Li-Po and 4-pole motor Brake 1. Brake Strength 85% 2. Brake PWM Frequency 12000hz 3. Brake Curve Linear a. Smart Brake System Dynamic Brake o Max Brake Strength 0% o Dynamic Curve Linear o Trigger RPM 12000 RPM Drag Brake 30% Throttle 1. Throttle PWM Frequency 16000hz 2. Throttle Punch 95% 3. Throttle Curve -Exp2 4. Dead Band Middle Motor Power 1. Acceleration Boost not on 2. Top Speed Timing not on Misc Control 1. Run Mode Race Blinking 2. Motor Direction Normal 3. Motor Type 4 Pole 4. SBEC Voltage 7.2v 5. Forward Power 75% 6. Reverse Power not on 7. Auto Power Off 4min Protection 1. Battery Cut Off 12.8v 2. Motor Temperature Cut 250F 3. ESC Temperature Cut 250F or could it be my diff set up. I'm running 4f 4c 750cst rear. My track is Blown out bad reason for the light diff oil setup. Thanx for the help. |
Originally Posted by Motorman007
(Post 12905034)
I'm wondering if i'm lost to much front drive with this setup.
Could the 5. Forward Power – 75% be holding it back or the 2. Throttle Punch – 95% My radio epa is set on 100% I just need little more power in some spots. ELECTRONICS ESC: VTX8 Battery: Servo(s): Radiopost Radio: 4pks-r Motor: Tekin 2050 1 Profile one 4WD 1/8 with 4S Li-Po and 4-pole motor Brake 1. Brake Strength – 85% 2. Brake PWM Frequency– 12000hz 3. Brake Curve – Linear a. Smart Brake System • Dynamic Brake o Max Brake Strength – 0% o Dynamic Curve – Linear o Trigger RPM – 12000 RPM • Drag Brake – 30% Throttle 1. Throttle PWM Frequency – 16000hz 2. Throttle Punch – 95% 3. Throttle Curve – -Exp2 4. Dead Band – Middle Motor Power 1. Acceleration Boost – not on 2. Top Speed Timing – not on Misc Control 1. Run Mode – Race Blinking 2. Motor Direction – Normal 3. Motor Type – 4 Pole 4. SBEC Voltage – 7.2v 5. Forward Power – 75% 6. Reverse Power – not on 7. Auto Power Off – 4min Protection 1. Battery Cut Off – 12.8v 2. Motor Temperature Cut – 250F 3. ESC Temperature Cut – 250F or could it be my diff set up. I'm running 4f 4c 750cst rear. My track is Blown out bad reason for the light diff oil setup. Thanx for the help. I always run 100% forward power, but adjust the punch to traction. Right now im at 65% punch for loose to medium traction and its still a touch too much to where I actually have to modulate power with my throttle finger ( its still learning :lol:) Try that and see how it feels, what pinion are you running in what vehicle? Also, try running a -exp 1 on throttle profile. Also, why are you running that much drag brake in a 4wd?!? Does it nose dive like crazy? I've never ran drag brake in a 4wd, only use it in my 2wd buggy. Try turning that off. For reference, I run a 1900kv motor with a 20t pinion in an RC8.2 and it has plenty of grunt off the bottom. |
Originally Posted by DoogieLee
(Post 12905017)
The VTX8 is one of the easiest to program, and smoothest esc's I have used.
I've ran Castle MMP and MMM, Tekin RX8's and now the Viper. Cutoff voltage can be adjusted to the 10th using the Progauge. Adjusting punch control and throttle PWM will give you a very smooth, or very aggressive throttle feel, as well as using either a linear, or convex/concave profile. Not to mention, its solid as a rock. I have 2 of them that have been in use for almost a year now running in an RC8 E buggy, and a Tekno SCT. |
epa is set on 100% Change when needed
BUGGY: TEKNO EB48.2 ELECTRONICS ESC: VTX8 Battery: Servo(s): Radiopost Radio: 4pks-r Motor: Tekin 2050 Internal Gear ratio: 4.3 Pinion:17 Spur 44 Final Ratio 11.13 34440 rpm Speed 42 1 Profile one 4WD 1/8 with 4S Li-Po and 4-pole motor Brake 1. Brake Strength 85% 2. Brake PWM Frequency 12000hz 3. Brake Curve Linear a. Smart Brake System Dynamic Brake o Max Brake Strength 0% o Dynamic Curve Linear o Trigger RPM 12000 RPM Drag Brake 0% CHANGE Throttle 1. Throttle PWM Frequency 16000hz 2. Throttle Punch 75% CHANGE *(adjust the punch to traction) 3. Throttle Curve -Exp1 CHANGE 4. Dead Band Middle Motor Power 1. Acceleration Boost not on 2. Top Speed Timing not on Misc Control 1. Run Mode Race Blinking 2. Motor Direction Normal 3. Motor Type 4 Pole 4. SBEC Voltage 7.2v 5. Forward Power 100% CHANGE 6. Reverse Power not on 7. Auto Power Off 4min Protection 1. Battery Cut Off 12.8v 2. Motor Temperature Cut 250F 3. ESC Temperature Cut 250F Also, why are you running that much drag brake in a 4wd?!? Does it nose dive like crazy? Just what I had it on. Does it nose dive like crazy? Now that you say that I was thinking it was the bad track. I will take out the Drag brake Thank you Doogie and Wildcat Maybe 16 pinion will help too Internal Gear ratio: 4.3 Pinion:16 Spur 44 Final Ratio 11.83 34440 rpm Speed 40 To get little more pop But it maybe like you all said the forward power was down |
Turning the forward power down is a big adjustment. If you need to "calm" down the power, start with a lower Punch. And if your track is really blown out don't be afraid to try really low like 40. Because this will limit wheel spin but keep you at full power down the straights. Now if its too fast down the straight, maybe limit Forward Power slightly, but 75 is pretty low.
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What a great race weekend for Team Viper!!!
DHI Cup -- Denmark Marc Fischer - 5th Mod Tourning Car CRCRC Midwest Champs JP Richards - 5th 2wd Mod (A Main in 4wd Buggy also) Paul Sinclair - 9th 2wd mod (won the B to bump to the A Main) Neil Pestka - 7th 2wd SC Stock January Jam - RC Madness Mark Smyka - TQ and win in F1, 1/12 17.5 and World GT Brandon Dyche - 7th Stadium Truck at NW Tour Series at TCRC Bunch of great club race wins around the country!!!!! Join the Viper revolution!!! |
Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 12905277)
Turning the forward power down is a big adjustment. If you need to "calm" down the power, start with a lower Punch. And if your track is really blown out don't be afraid to try really low like 40. Because this will limit wheel spin but keep you at full power down the straights. Now if its too fast down the straight, maybe limit Forward Power slightly, but 75 is pretty low.
Just more fine tuning on my side. |
Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 12905277)
Turning the forward power down is a big adjustment. If you need to "calm" down the power, start with a lower Punch. And if your track is really blown out don't be afraid to try really low like 40. Because this will limit wheel spin but keep you at full power down the straights. Now if its too fast down the straight, maybe limit Forward Power slightly, but 75 is pretty low.
Can the Viper limit the motor's torque output? I'm not talking about starting power or punch*. I'm interested in lowering the torque over the hole power band while still maintaining RPM's. The RX8 calls it current limiter, but in essence it just lowers the torque of the motor makes while keeping overall speed. *My understanding of punch is the limiting of starting power. When set to low, the ESC limites the current sent to the motor to keep the starting power low. When off the motor pulls as much as it needs or your batteries can give. |
Originally Posted by Darkgenerals
(Post 12905596)
This makes me want to ask for some clarification.
Can the Viper limit the motor's torque output? I'm not talking about starting power or punch. I'm interested in lowering the torque over the hole power band while still maintaining RPM's. The RX8 calls it current limiter, but in essence it just lowers the torque of the motor makes while keeping overall speed. |
Originally Posted by godofcable
(Post 12905601)
"punch" on the VTX8 is a current limiter. "punch" is the setting you need to turn down torque without affecting top speed
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Originally Posted by Motorman007
(Post 12905148)
epa is set on 100% Change when needed
BUGGY: TEKNO EB48.2 ELECTRONICS ESC: VTX8 Battery: Servo(s): Radiopost Radio: 4pks-r Motor: Tekin 2050 Internal Gear ratio: 4.3 Pinion:17 Spur 44 Final Ratio 11.13 34440 rpm Speed 42 1 Profile one 4WD 1/8 with 4S Li-Po and 4-pole motor Brake 1. Brake Strength 85% 2. Brake PWM Frequency 12000hz 3. Brake Curve Linear a. Smart Brake System Dynamic Brake o Max Brake Strength 0% o Dynamic Curve Linear o Trigger RPM 12000 RPM Drag Brake 0% CHANGE Throttle 1. Throttle PWM Frequency 16000hz 2. Throttle Punch 75% CHANGE *(adjust the punch to traction) 3. Throttle Curve -Exp1 CHANGE 4. Dead Band Middle Motor Power 1. Acceleration Boost not on 2. Top Speed Timing not on Misc Control 1. Run Mode Race Blinking 2. Motor Direction Normal 3. Motor Type 4 Pole 4. SBEC Voltage 7.2v 5. Forward Power 100% CHANGE 6. Reverse Power not on 7. Auto Power Off 4min Protection 1. Battery Cut Off 12.8v 2. Motor Temperature Cut 250F 3. ESC Temperature Cut 250F Also, why are you running that much drag brake in a 4wd?!? Does it nose dive like crazy? Just what I had it on. Does it nose dive like crazy? Now that you say that I was thinking it was the bad track. I will take out the Drag brake Thank you Doogie and Wildcat Maybe 16 pinion will help too Internal Gear ratio: 4.3 Pinion:16 Spur 44 Final Ratio 11.83 34440 rpm Speed 40 To get little more pop But it maybe like you all said the forward power was down |
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