Lol I have chris's setup on my car now since mimis is the track I run indoor at lol Have not run my car yet. I'm having fitting issus with my vtx10r putting it on the chassis. See the 2.0 thread. I posted my issue there.

ok, because I am running on outdoor rutted and cracked clay atm and I need to do something to keep the wheels more planted in the corners. 4x1.3 tapers should help with that.

if you go tapered, then definitely do 32.5 and 30. I always go half weight higher with tapered. Try Chris's setup. I think you'll like it. It has the same front end as Root's, but the rear camber link is different. 1-D with 2mm outside vs 1-A and 1mm. It really helped lock my car in more.

Went racing Thursday night at the local indoor carpet track. First time running my 1/10 scale buggies in a looooong time. I've pretty much been running 1/8 exclusively for the last few yrs.

It was surprising how much different it felt. I knew right away that I was going to have to learn to drive all over again....lol

2wd buggy is a huge class in my area as are both SCT classes. I don't run SCT at all, yet.

I managed to take 3rd in the B main ( think it went to a small D main)after 3 rounds of quals. I really focused on running error free laps. I was running a Vtrax10 and VTX13.5 combo. A23 on my ESC I think. ESC and motor never got much above room temp.

My trusty RB5 never lets me down. I think with a bit of practice, I can crack the A main. I was the only rear motor car there.....lol

4wd was going a little better. ESC was getting a little warmer than I remember it getting. Pretty sure that Vtrax has A23 on it too. I lost rear wheel drive near the end of the second qual. I tried to get it fixed for the last qual but couldn't. I ran the qual with front wheel drive only and was only lapped once by the two lead cars. I didn't want to risk damaging my electronics so I sat out the main. I was running an Orion 7.5 as I didn't have time to solder in my VTX 7.5 I just got.

I'm installing my VTX8 /VF8.19 tomorrow in my 1/8 in the hopes of making a race on Saturday.

is his full setup somewhere online.

Fourth time out with my Assoc. T4, VTX 10BE with a Viper 8.5 motor. All other race outings have gone great.

Second time out on the track, the truck would only go if I pushed it. As long as I kept moving it would be fine. Once I stopped it wouldn't go, but it would back up... and then it would go forward.

I tried different brand new sensor wires and a new motor same results.

What's the deal? Any ideas?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/12715043-post3739.html

Clint - sounds like something happen in the sensor. Either on motor or esc side. Best to try different motor. That will show if it's esc or motor.

silivas- here is the copperhead set up I have run before:

Brake strength- level 7
Brake curve- exp+2
Drag brake- level 2
Throttle punch - level 3
Curve - Exp +1
Dead band - middle
Motor Timing - Level 6
Run Mode- 1 second Reverse
Motor Direction - normal
Start Power- Level 6
Forward Power Level 10

Had a great racing night last with my Viper vtx10r and 17.5 motor. Running at HP Hobbies in Hutchinson, KS. High Bite clay offroad track. We had a great turnout with 23 buggies in the 17.5 class. Was able to qualify 7th and the buggy kept getting better and was able to finish 3rd on the night. Was pleased with the performance all night from my esc and motor. A Viper esc set the TQ last night in Mod buggy as well.

I tried the motor out of my TC and it does the exact same thing.
What can I do now?

change your sensor wire.

Hey guys. Ive been looking into getting one of these for my losi scte. I run on a medium track. Im looking at the vx4r.45 or the vx4r 51. Are these a good combo? Should I get the 5100kv or 4500kv? Id rather have more power and gear down than less power!

My original post:

"Fourth time out with my Assoc. T4, VTX 10BE with a Viper 8.5 motor. All other race outings have gone great.

Second time out on the track, the truck would only go if I pushed it. As long as I kept moving it would be fine. Once I stopped it wouldn't go, but it would back up... and then it would go forward.

I tried different brand new sensor wires and a new motor same results.

What's the deal? Any ideas?"

Already done. Looks like its the speed control... just need to know how to fix it or get it fixed.

I ran my copperhead R vx4r 4500kv in a 1/8lite buggy (jq the car tekno converted) on a small track and the motor was barely temping 110-120 after a full 6000 pack but the esc on one of the packs temped out. It temped at about 125 so I'm at a loss on that one. So should I gear up on motor see if it lowers eac temps? In running profile 4