R/C Tech Forums

R/C Tech Forums (https://www.rctech.net/forum/)
-   Radio and Electronics (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics-137/)
-   -   Viper RC - (https://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-electronics/455152-viper-rc.html)

DustinH 12-18-2013 05:57 AM

You have to push and hold the button for a few seconds until the orange an red lights light up. Then you can link up.

Matt1970 12-18-2013 08:58 AM

I have a new VTX10 esc and viper motor. Occasionally it shuts off. Usually after a jump. I have checked all the wiring and it looks OK. I checked the sensor wire and even unplugged both ends and plugged back in, but it did it again a couple times last night. I still have steering when this happens and after a few seconds it will take off fine. Nothing is hot either and I know the batteries are good. Any ideas???

Matt1970 12-18-2013 09:12 AM


Originally Posted by Cain (Post 12821356)
I run the Hitect 7955TG, hitec confirmed it can take 7.4V so been using it at that setting. Been great.

For truggy motors, personally I think guys are overtorquing these things. Running a truggy can almost seems like overkill.

If the Viper could do a sensorless motor I would probably be dumb and try a castle 1520 motor on a truggy :) Having this motor pushing around a 1/5 scale savage without even getting warm and insane torque, can't imagine on a truggy.

As it sits right now though, I am VERY curious about a Viper Motor in a truggy ... VERY CURIOUS :)

I just put in a Hitech 7955TG recently in my SCT410. It makes a little noise while just setting there. Have you had that issue??

Wildcat1971 12-18-2013 09:20 AM

sure, your esc is rebooting. I had the same issue a while back. My cause was a bad connection at one of the bullets going to the battery. But if anything on the power side goes wrong, it will reboot. Make sure the caps are soldered on well and you can try you put some servo tape under the cap to keep it from bouncing.

Matt1970 12-18-2013 10:31 AM


Originally Posted by Wildcat1971 (Post 12823848)
sure, your esc is rebooting. I had the same issue a while back. My cause was a bad connection at one of the bullets going to the battery. But if anything on the power side goes wrong, it will reboot. Make sure the caps are soldered on well and you can try you put some servo tape under the cap to keep it from bouncing.

My Cap is secured to chasis with tape. I will double check my battery connections, etc. Cap came already soldered on. I would assume that is good. I also use 2 different battery types. One with bullets and deans and one with just deans. I'll have to pay attention to see if it is hapenning to one and not the other.

Wildcat1971 12-18-2013 11:09 AM


Originally Posted by Matt1970 (Post 12824066)
My Cap is secured to chasis with tape. I will double check my battery connections, etc. Cap came already soldered on. I would assume that is good. I also use 2 different battery types. One with bullets and deans and one with just deans. I'll have to pay attention to see if it is hapenning to one and not the other.

ok, I was unsure if you had the BE or orange esc. Anyway, my wire going into the 4mm bullet was broken 90% the way through. I replaced the wire and the issue went away. Others have has the same issues with loose caps or caps soldered incorrectly. If all of the wires and joins are good, then you can always warranty it.

Ivegotklas 12-18-2013 11:13 AM


Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 12821139)
I believe it was the Futaba Challenge race last fall where one of drivers finished second in truggy with the 1900kv test motor. I have been trying to do some research on what people use and gear for Truggy and to be honest with you -- its so all over the place, there doesn't seem to be any rhythm or reason for a lot of it. If you look at buggy - racers are on 4s between 1800kv and 2100kv. But truggy - is a different world it appears.

I went down 2 teeth when I used a tekin 1900kv buggy motor for my truggy. Now I went from an mbx6 to a converted tamiya 801xt but F/R diffs are almost the same ratio as the Mugens.

StPete40 12-18-2013 01:18 PM

Not much activity on the VTX8 thread so I thought I'd post over here.


I'm looking for some setup suggestions for SC 4x4 on a dusty hard-pack outdoor track. Right now I'm messing around with a mix of VTX8 and 4PL settings and I'm over-complicating things. Basically I want to soften the initial hit of the throttle to help maintain traction out of corners, but still need enough pop on a fairly short run-up to clear some doubles on a 1/8 buggy-oriented outdoor track. Running a VTX8-Pro4 HD 4300-16t in a Hyper 10SC 4x4. Way over-powered, but man its fast when hooked up and comes off the track nice and cool.

Any suggestions for forward power/punch/acceleration timing/acceleration RPM window combos?

cclifton 12-18-2013 02:16 PM


Originally Posted by Bob Barry (Post 12823300)
Make sure you press the power button for about 1 second to activate 'program mode' The green LED will turn Orange. After that, choose Link on the Progage / EZLink

Thanks, I will give that a try when I get home. Thought I may have been doing something incorrectly. Our 17.5 2wd buggy class allows use currently to use boost, and I tried the 17.5 and 13.5 boost that was programmed into the speedo and its still a bit much so I want to de-tune a bit more. This is my first speedo in over 5 years that isn't a tekin so im giving it a try. So far if the EZ link works, im thinking I will be happy.

Jim Hustins 12-18-2013 02:21 PM


Originally Posted by Matt1970 (Post 12823786)
I have a new VTX10 esc and viper motor. Occasionally it shuts off. Usually after a jump. I have checked all the wiring and it looks OK. I checked the sensor wire and even unplugged both ends and plugged back in, but it did it again a couple times last night. I still have steering when this happens and after a few seconds it will take off fine. Nothing is hot either and I know the batteries are good. Any ideas???

Sounds like a connection issue with the lipo. I stopped usuing Deans for this reason. If the system notices a voltage drop it will shut down and reboot. When this happens you will have steering but no throttle untill it finishes booting up. Change your connectors and see if it helps.

nikos2002 12-18-2013 05:47 PM


Originally Posted by StPete40 (Post 12824463)
Not much activity on the VTX8 thread so I thought I'd post over here.


I'm looking for some setup suggestions for SC 4x4 on a dusty hard-pack outdoor track. Right now I'm messing around with a mix of VTX8 and 4PL settings and I'm over-complicating things. Basically I want to soften the initial hit of the throttle to help maintain traction out of corners, but still need enough pop on a fairly short run-up to clear some doubles on a 1/8 buggy-oriented outdoor track. Running a VTX8-Pro4 HD 4300-16t in a Hyper 10SC 4x4. Way over-powered, but man its fast when hooked up and comes off the track nice and cool.

Any suggestions for forward power/punch/acceleration timing/acceleration RPM window combos?

Just answered you on the VTX8 thread -- but Punch, that will be the biggest thing to work with. More details on the other thread (to avoid typing it all again). Nick/Viper

nikos2002 12-18-2013 05:51 PM

With the connection issue - even double check if your wires have heat shrink on them.

Famous story (for me atleast) - just talked a new driver into using our stuff, at a race with him helping him get a unit installed in his car - no power, can't believe. 2nd unit, no power - no way, 3rd unit - no power, this is crazy. Then he thinks maybe it my receiver - replaces it - no power. New servo, no power. We can't believe this isn't working - now practice is almost over for the night -- we agree to put in his old speed control - he goes to plug it in -- wire comes off the deans plug on his battery - it was loose the hole time the shrink wrap was holding on enough to make it look connected.

StPete40 12-18-2013 06:28 PM

Thanks Nick. I'm liking this Orange and Black scheme.

Ray Kindstrom 12-19-2013 04:55 PM


Originally Posted by nikos2002 (Post 12825173)
With the connection issue - even double check if your wires have heat shrink on them.

Famous story (for me atleast) - just talked a new driver into using our stuff, at a race with him helping him get a unit installed in his car - no power, can't believe. 2nd unit, no power - no way, 3rd unit - no power, this is crazy. Then he thinks maybe it my receiver - replaces it - no power. New servo, no power. We can't believe this isn't working - now practice is almost over for the night -- we agree to put in his old speed control - he goes to plug it in -- wire comes off the deans plug on his battery - it was loose the hole time the shrink wrap was holding on enough to make it look connected.

Talk about having a bad day.....

ridgerunner1 12-20-2013 02:12 PM

I see on face book vipers having a sale but i can't get in to some off the
area's to order like the ESC part.


All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:57 AM.

Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.