Love the copperhead in my SCTE. Planning to upgrade to the vtx8 and a 550 motor soon and get a system for my 2wd

Has anyone used the vtx1 for offroad. The spec says it's great for offroad.

I am kind of leaning towards the vtx1. I will be using it with a 17.5, and i like the clean look of the caps on top.

On the other hand the vtx10 BE has a stronger BEC, and it appears the software is different? If so what is the difference?

The VTX1 has the added function of running on a 1s battery. Its slightly lighter than the VTX10 series. Runs on the same exact software, as all of the other VTX's.

As for the BECs they are really quite similar. Just wired different - so you have mounting options. Some don't mind external caps and others like the way the package fits in a car.

DaveG - I answered your question in PM

I run a VST6.5 in my B44 with a 17T pinion on the stock spur (I think 81?) in my B44.1 on a medium sized, hi-bite clay track, and I come off at 125-130 on the motor and usually 115-120 on the ESC irregardless if I run 5 minute qualifiers or 8 minute mains.

Nothing real special about my setup. 25 degrees on the motor, 16,000 Drive Freq, 4000 brake freq, 35% drag brake, about 95% EPA on the radio, 100% brake on the radio and ESC, punch is 40%.

And just a reminder, the ProGage can adjust every setting in the ESC, and is the easiest tool to do so.

The PcLink gains you two things beyond that. 1st is the ability to update firmware (mind you we haven't had any firmware updates since June or July). The second is the ability to upload and download an esc setup.

Lets say you are in Chicago, and you have a friend in Texas who has a PcLink. He can use the PcLink to save his ESC setup to an email-able file that he can email you, and you can upload it on your esc. It saves you from having to change the settings on the ESC via the ProGauge.

I have a couple questions about the VTX10-BE.

I burnt one up last weekend. At the start of the race, by son was behind me. I braked at the first turn and the touched the back of me. Not hard enough to spin me, just very lightly. He was into the back of me for about 5 feet. The car is a B4.1. My car died in the first turn. The marshall picked up the car and then it began to work again. So, I ran approximately 10 laps and the car died again. As I was walking back to the bench with the car, I had no foward throttle. Reverse worked but only for about a 1/2 turn of the tires. It seemed like something in the driveline was jammed. I manually rotated the tires both ways and it was free. Then suddenly, the ESC starts pouring out smoke. I disconnected the battery and waited for the smoke to clear. After further inspection, I find that the middle power wire on the motor is no longer soldered to the motor tab. The motor is a D3.5.

My first thought is that my son got his tire into the motor tab area and pushed the wire off causing a short. It is hard to imagine his tire getting in there though.

I bought a new VTX10-BE and intalled it last night. At first, it wouldn't work. The foward and reverse lights lit up from throttle input as normal but the motor would not turn. After messing around with it, it began working. Later, it stopped woking again and I could not get it to work. I replaced the sensor wire and then it was fine.

I could easily see my son's tire getting into the sensor wire. Is it possible for the sensor wire to burn up the ESC?

Is it worth sending the ESC in for repair? It is only 5-6 months old but I wouldn't expect this to be a warranty claim. I am guessing that the cost to fix is may be to close to a new ESC.

Thanks in advance.

Definitely send it back to let us look and see what is going on. I wouldn't think a sensor wire would have enough voltage in it to 'short' the system. Something else must have been at play there, maybe the wire came off and shorted on the other tab. All guesses without seeing the system.

I have a reedy motor and my son wanted a Viper. solder does not seem to like the tabs as much on the viper. Any tips on this?

Ricky,

How well was your solder job? Every thing you described sounds like it was a bad joint at the motor tabs causing the heat for it to unsolder and short out.

I thought it was quite probable that the solder joint was weak because I had the motor out and resoldered it the day before. I kinda came to the conclusion that this probably was not the problem. The reason is that the car quit for a moment and then ran another 10 laps. Also, seems too conicidental that the senosr wire went bad at the same time. I could be wrong though.

Thanks for the reply.

I don't understand? You mean the solder isn't staying on the tab? Haven't every come across that. Might want to make sure there is not oil or residue on the tabs.

What Watt Iron is being used. you should be using a Minimum 45 watts. I use a 48 watt, no issues.