I am considering a Viper esc for my 1/10 buggy but i am not sure which version would be the best choice.

I will be running a 17.5 motor and would like to utilize the blinky mode.

I read about 50 pages worth of posts and comments and found all sorts of information. I really enjoyed the back and forth between the ill informed employee and the arrogant Tekin Prez, and to be honest, that exchange kind of affirmed my desire to replace my Tekins with Viper.

I am considering the vtx1 or vtx10, but not sure about the benefit of running an "R" version or the "black" series if I am running a 17.5. Your website lists both the vtx1 and vtx10 as the "most advanced available", but that really doesn't answer many questions. The vtx1 info states it is well suited for off-road, but the vtx10 seems to have updated software, the "R" series can handle larger motors (if I choose to do so), and the "black" series with it"s stronger bec, may handle the power hungry Savox servos a bit better.

See the reason my dilemma and confusion? Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks for the replys ill have to experiment with this maybe try 20-30k rpm range.

In the simplest of terms:

VTX1 - 1s applications - some 2s applications but not low turn motors
VTX10 - 2s applications down two 7.5 realistically (can handle little lower)
VTX10R - 2s = 540/550 motors/milder 4 pole motors
VTX10 BE - same as VTX10 slightly stronger BEC
VTX10RBE - same as VTX10R slightly stronger BEC

So if one of your concerns is the big draw from a Savox, maybe the VTX10 BE, only other consideration would be if you want to be prepared to run a really low turn motor in the future, then you could plan ahead with a 10R BE.

All the units have the latest a55 software update for max power!!!

Jay, same kind of rules apply for what Dave said before. Testing and experimenting is the key. Start low and move up, checking temps and see how it feels. Start with a lower timing and slew rate and only add it as you need it. Only run a few laps at a time to get the feel and check the temps.

There is no magic set up - just the one that you feel works the best for you - that day.

You can add Top Speed Timing just on the strait yes. It requires these 4 settings to do so (with explanations on each)

Start RPM & Finish RPM - These two settings are associated with the "Acceleration Boost" part of the timing system, but the reason we need them is that they (most particularly the Finish RPM) control when the Top Speed Timing starts coming in

Basically, you have to set the Finish RPM at a RPM level that you want the TST to start engaging. This will vary on the motor you are using, gearing, etc..... so you are going to have to test to get what you want. Lower turn (higher RPM) motors will need higher settings. If it is set too low, you can over time the motor too soon, and really cause some heat issues real fast

Max Advance Timing - This is how much total timing the ESC will eventually add. Start low with this number (like 3 or 5 degrees) and test.

Slew Rate - This can be set from 1 to 10, with 1 being conservative and 10 being most aggressive. The higher the setting, the faster it adds timing. This will be hard to feel with low Max Adv Settings when comparing a "2" to "8", but the safe side here is to start low.

Now, with any time you start adding timing, one needs to consider gearing down. Or at least start by gearing down some and getting a feel for how it all works. Remember, the biggest killer of motors is too much timing, especially at low RPMS, so START CONSERVATIVELY and TEST

More tips on using the timing settings here

Also, read the manual and use the calculations that are in the manual, they actually are quite useful for finding some of the starting points for things like RPM, etc....

Zipper, this right here is spot on. I can tell you that I run the VTX10 BE in both 2wd buggy and 2wd SCT. I have run down to 7.5T in the truck with out any issues. You will love the feel and how easy it is to tune.

Quick little storytime moment that I will share....

This past week I ran 17.5 for the first time with the Viper ESC/Motor combo. I had no clue how to get the feel I wanted yet so I grabbed my proguage and went out and turned laps.... after 3 laps I came off the stand, connected and made a change to the ESC. Went right back out. Total time was about a minute. After doing this 5 or 6 times, one of the other guys asked me what I was doing. I explained to him that I was just adjusting the ESC settings. His response was "wow..... what you just did in 30 seconds would take me 5 minutes"

That's what it's all about :)

yeah, esc's without program cards are a joke.

Allrighty then!

I have read many of your posts bob and trust your opinion. Customer service looks to be pretty good, and since early runs of the ESC there does not seem to be any issues. Sign me up.

I have read that the ESC is very smooth and brake feel is excellent. That is more important to me than ease of adjustment. I used to bring my laptop with me on occasion, and made adjustments to my Tekin at the track, but this was the exception. I do like the idea of having a computer on hand so you can see all the settings right in front of you, but what you describe sounds too good to pass up. Thanks for the advice.

I recently picked up a used rc, and it came with a castle sidewinder esc and a 3800kv motor. When i got it going, and drove it for the first time, i realized how spoiled Viper has made me. Viper's unsensored feels like a sensored system compared to Castle.

yeah, I am running the vtx10 also. No real complaints, but if I were you I would get the Black edition. They have larger caps and they are not orange...yuck.

Wildcat, I thought you ran Viper as well. You were next on my list to send a PM, but you already answered my questions.

The orange doesn't really bother me too much. Not any worse than the Durango mustard yellow, and gold hardware on my cars.

Thanks.

I have a vtx10r be and I see that you say it will handle mild 4 pole motors. I was thinking if running a revtech 3800kv 4 pole. How do you think that would work out?

@Zipper It is pretty obvious that you want to get the pro gauge, but you might also think about getting the PC link since you like the GUI of the laptop. Plus you can do firmware updates. The PCLink is not critical and you can often find them used. I found mine on the for sale thread for $15 shipped.

The VTX10R and VTX10R-BE are only rated for 2-pole motors.