Just got home from a night of testing at the track and the Viper equipment is impressing more all of the time.
Played with drag brake, gearing and PWM.
I really liked what adding drag brake did for my driving. It made me more consistent on turn in and helped rotate the buggy.
I have always run a little higher gearing than the guys with other brands of motors with the motor and esc still staying cool. Tonight I ended up with 34/75 in my buggy and it still only came off at 130 degrees after a very long session(probably 10 minutes or so).
At the same time, I started going up on my PWM and it just got smoother and faster as I went up. I ran out of time and stopped at 6400 I think.

I would like to know what others are experiencing with their Viper equipment. What are your settings in 17.5 blinky buggy?

Bob & Fred --- looking forward to 2013!!!! Welcome.

C -- glad you like everything, with all these settings available to you, your doing the perfect thing ----- trying them!!!! See what you like and what fits your driving style. There isn't one perfect set up, because we all drive a little different, our cars might react different, etc.

I have seen drivers use any where from 2500 - 12000 for throttle freq. Experiment with the Curve a little as well - EXP+1 or +2 - will give you a more punchy feel -- if you like that.

Nick, I am running stock blinky, so I can't adjust curve, I don't think? I scrolled through all of the menus and didn't see anything like that for profile 1....

i hate that "how the in the heck am I that stupid" gut feeling.

throttle EPA??? that is under the 'Throttle' tab, and it is under the 'throttle curve' tab.
hope that helps.

Thank, I will look for that!

guys do do you reckon a vtx-10 B.E could handle a savox 1257tg with no bec?

whats everyone doing about the little red cylinder thingy falling out of the switch?
Im borrowing a couple VTX10 speedos until my new VTX10R Black Edition's show up and was wondering if anyone came up with a easy fix.

(one of mine fell out and now i cannot turn it on off without a body clip or small screw driver tip.)

Thanks.

Kevin

It will power that sevo Without breaking a sweat.

I can't wait to get my hands on the 1/8 scale combos 2013 going to be my year I think

BEC Spec
 

This is more of a post to educate people on BEC related issues.

I see questions in regards to the use of a particular brand servo with the Viper ESC's in regards to the BEC in the ESC holding up, mainly in Savox servos.

In my opinion these questions stem for reported issues of using a certain brand servo and there are "brown outs" using these servos that have higher current draw, which ends up with people have steering issues (loosing steering input) or the entire system shutting down.

The fact of the matter in these circumstances that it is the receiver that is in fact "browning out", and it seems to revolve around certain receivers (Spektrum being the most known for experiencing this). The Viper BEC is more than capable of handling the current to feed the servo, but the receiver cannot handle the current. The fact is that the Viper ESC can pass MORE current than other ESCs and this is what can cause the issues.

When it comes to current, it is supply and demand. If the servo can pull a certain amount of amps on one end of the circuit, and the ESC is on the other end of the circuit providing the power. The receiver is in the middle, and if it can't handle the amps, it will start failing. That is why a capacitor plugged into the receiver helps, it adds more amps in the middle of the circuit to help carry the demand.

I myself run a Futaba 4pk (not the "S") and use Futaba 603, 614FS and 614FF receivers, with Savox 1257 and Savox 1258 servos in all of my cars, have not had one issue with any brown outs and I don't need to run a cap. And I have run every version of the Viper ESCs in these configurations. VTX10, VTX10R, VTX1, Copperhead, BE, etc..... even the original prototype "VTrax" version, and during that time Viper has made the BEC more robust, but to be honest it has not changed the issue at all, but again, it tends to revolve around certain models and brands of receivers.

I am pretty sure Fred is running Savox servos with his VTX10 and Futaba radio and he has zero issues.

That's pretty good. I have had countless units in all type of cars but never that issue. Ther is no 'easy' fix for it. If the unit is less than a year old, show no signs of physical damage, and the person you ate borrowing them from has the original receipt - we can look at a warranty doing a replacement.

22SCT Picture!!!
 

Well the 22SCT looks pretty good!!! Got some upgrades in the mail today!!! Got my one problem to fix and it will be all good!!!

VTX10R-BE performance drop after 1:30 minutes
 

Hi,

I have a VTX10R-BE with VST 6.5, it is on a Durango DEX410v3 with default spur (87T) and 19T pinion, I have the throttle frequency on 12000, no boosts or timing just the default mechanical 30 on the motor itself, punch is set to 90% esc/motor temp cut off at 200 degrees. breaks on 80% with 5000 frequency, no dynamic or drag breaks, i started with profile 2.

I have a problem with my car performance dropping after 1:30-2:00 minutes, from starts, the car just flies for a minute and then performance drop bad, I tried to lower the throttle to 8000 (from 12000) and the car is slower than 12000 but still after a minute or two performance drop, I use the new turingy a-spec 5600mah battery rated at 65~130C, I also tried a friends orion and it was the same, and my friend tried my battery with another (red) esc and he had no such problem so it doesn't appear to be battery related.

What else can be done?