So here ya go Tony. I run the SCTE, with Savox 1258tg servo, Spektrum 3s radio, and the Copperhead 4500 combo. No need for the extra cap. It's one of the beauties of the speedo. No glitching.

There is no sensor port on the speedo, but honestly, you don't need to run sensored motors anymore. This system runs right with, and past, them.

As far as running other motors, the only one else that I've tried has been the Castle 1410 3800. It's a beast, and works perfect.

My advice to you, if not getting a ProGuage now, would be to run in profile 4 if you want reverse, or in profile 5 if you are racing with it. Either one is great. I was running the stock profile 4 for a few months before I got the ProGuage, and was on the podium all over the place.

Hope some of this helps. I would also suggest running 14t and 15t pinions. I run the 14 indoors and 15 on bigger outdoor tracks. That is the combos you want for the Losi truck. Good luck and hope you like it.

Thanks for the advise. Yeah I will be racing. Mostly indoor but some outdoor and was planning on starting with a 14 tooth pinion. Again thanks for thanks for the advise

We have seen lots of glitching with all systems and Savox servo's in our area. It hasn't mattered which brand or level of ESC it happens to be. A power cap plugged into the receiver has gotten around the problem every time.

Does anybody have experience running a Novak Ballistic motor with the BE's yet? Can anyone confirm it will/won't work with that ESC. I'd like to replace my GTB2 with the Viper, but I'm not buying a new motor also- no reason for that. Well, actually not any GOOD reason to replace the GTB2 either, I just don't like the weak brakes.

Thanks for any help.

The slew setting is from 1-10, with 1 being conservative and 10 being aggressive. The slew rate only affects top end timing, and will not start advancing until the ESC is above the Finish RPM setting (yours of 12000rpm).

Previous versions of firmware used a degree/1000 RPM setting and it was changed to the slew rate setting at the request of customers to make it a easier to understand setting.

Again, in spec racing you can get allot of timing in the motors, you just have to balance putting too much timing into the motors at low RPMS, that is that will get it hot. IE- you may be able to run more timing if you use a lower slew rate.

Its a sensored motor so it shouldn't have any issue running with the BE systems. We just caution that the temp cut off settings may not be as accurate with other motors depending on their sensor systems (we can't control that). As for brakes - remember the motor does play a part in that as well, especially if its old.

my motor is at 140 after a 6 minute main. track is tight. now if i understand correctly the motor begins to get add boost at the start rpm of 3500 rpm and at the finish rpm, the 30 degrres of boost go away, and the slew rate kicks in and adds the 20 degrees of top speed timing through the slew rate setting (# 5)
correct?

Your two RPM settings (Start and Finsish RPM) determine when the ESC starts adding and is done adding the Low Speed Timing.

In this scenario:

Start RPM - 5000
Finish RPM - 20000
Low Speed Timing - 10 Degrees
High Speed Timing - 10 Degrees

At 4999 RPM, the system is adding 0 degrees of timing, you only have what it dialed in on the motor can itself.

At 5000 RPM, the ESC will start adding the Low Speed Timing, and in our case that is 10 degrees. So at 5000 RPM it will add 1 degree.

As we go up in RPM from 5000 to 20,000RPM the ESC will gradually increase the RPM in proportion until it reaches the Finish RPM setting. In our scenario, right when the ESC hits 20k, we will have an additional 10 degrees of timing added.

As the motor goes above 20,000 rpm, the ESC will start adding an additional 10 degrees of timing beyond the 10 it already added, but ESC changes the method in which it ramps in the High Speed Timing at this point, because the motor is changing RPM so fast at this point. If the slew rate is set at 1, it will start adding the additional timing slowly, and if it is at 9 or 10, it will add it very aggressively. It is no longer adding timing based on just RPM, but based on time (it depends on how much time is spent over 20,000RPM is how much additional timing it adds). If you are only over 20k for .1 seconds, you will not get 10 additional degrees of timing. If it is over 20k for 30 seconds, you will.

The High Speed Timing is basically setup this way to add boost on a strait away, and the slew setting works best like this to basically adjust for traction conditions on the strait.

The VTX ESCs are very versatile when adding timing, they are the most adjustable ESC in the market in boosted racing, but allong with that adjustability comes the opportunity to hurt the motor or ESC by being too aggressive.

I myself when racing with timing, I dial in all the Low Speed Timing settings first and leave the High Speed at 0 degrees, to make sure the temps and feel I have is just based on the Low Speed settings. Once they are how I want it, I will then use the High Speed if I want more speed on the strait.

I didn't ask the question but that post was VERY helpful in understanding exactly how the boost is happening.

Thank you for the detailed post. :nod:

About a year ago I wrote a guide to how to use the timing features here on RcTech, if you did some digging back in the thread you may find it.

I will look for it. I just got my Vipers within the last month or two and only have one race day on one of them (I have a VXT10R and now a VXT10-BE). For the VXT10R in my SCT I used a setup I posted a few pages back that was sent to me from Viper technical service. Now I just need a good setup for the VXT10-BE running a VST8.5 in my B4.1. I think I'm going to start with no boost, it seems wicked fast as it is but I haven't had a chance to get to the track yet.

Grasshopper, its a good idea to try it with no timing first - then add little by little if needed. Like Prof. Dave said above, a part of the whole variable if the track, length and traction available. What the timing and boost really do is help you add power and rpm so if you think you need more motor, you can program it into the system, instead of going out and buying a whole new motor.

What are the differences between the VTX10R BE and VTX10 BE, other than the motor limit it can handle. I dont run low turn mod motors so going down to 5 or 6 turn motors is not a concern. What other differences exist. Also thanks VIPER for the MIlitary Program.... that was 1/2 of my decision to run Viper!

Thank you for serving our country you can't go wrong running viper they rock..:nod:

Man that's great to do for the military. I got my copperhead setup yesterday. Seems very high quality. Was super easy to setup. Can't wait to get it on the track