4LikesViper RC -
07-24-2012, 07:21 AM
#5116
Dan that gearing was with a 17.5?? I run a SC10, but the trans ratio is the same. I start at 75/26 at a new track, and go up from their depending on temps and performance - sometimes up to 28-29 if the track is long enough.
For KTM - always go by temp and performance. And if you are looking for racing speeds, don't run longer than your club race or main event would be. Because its easy to over heat a 17.5 by running too long at racing speeds.
All the product we are shipping now comes pre-wired. Can't speak if any retails have stuff on the shelf that might not be wired. We tried to wait a little bit to let everyone sell through the un-wired stuff. Thats why stuff was "out of stock" for a long time.
BTW, unless something changes Black Edition should be available through retailers next week.
For KTM - always go by temp and performance. And if you are looking for racing speeds, don't run longer than your club race or main event would be. Because its easy to over heat a 17.5 by running too long at racing speeds.
All the product we are shipping now comes pre-wired. Can't speak if any retails have stuff on the shelf that might not be wired. We tried to wait a little bit to let everyone sell through the un-wired stuff. Thats why stuff was "out of stock" for a long time.
BTW, unless something changes Black Edition should be available through retailers next week.
Nick, you called that one. 18/88 was the stock gearing. I read it on my setup sheet and typed it. My apologies for that one. I was running 24/77 when I had the Novak SS. I can say this much though. The stock gearing is what I used when I ran the Castle 3800 in it. Was pretty good, and had me running as fast as I needed to go on a big 1/8scale track.
Sorry for the wrong info! Way to check me on that Nick! That's why you get the BIG BUCKS!!!
Last edited by DanielHolloway; 07-24-2012 at 07:23 AM. Reason: stupidity on my part!
07-24-2012, 09:30 AM
#5118
Ok Viper gurus so I just had my first shake down run with my new VST13.5T in my XXX-SCT and I guess I like it. Question on temps and gearing: I'm running some boost (BH 120a ESC) and my gearing is 82/21 currently for a FDR of 9.49. After 8 min of driving around on a loose surface (not grass) my temp was 155 deg on the motor as told by the telemetry from my DX2S (so sensor on the outside of the can). This is cooler than I was running in the past with my old motor but I was way over geared and running a ton of boost. So now 2 levels less boost (they go from 1-9 I'm not at 5) and much better gearing with the new motor. Is this gearing still too high? Should I drop another couple of teeth to get that temp a little lower?
Also in general would it be better to run less boost and the same gearing or a larger FDR (drop 2 teeth on the pinion) and the same boost? Is one way generally more driveable than the other? Better for the gear than the other?
Thanks
Also in general would it be better to run less boost and the same gearing or a larger FDR (drop 2 teeth on the pinion) and the same boost? Is one way generally more driveable than the other? Better for the gear than the other?
Thanks
07-24-2012, 09:54 AM
#5119
+2
Ok Viper gurus so I just had my first shake down run with my new VST13.5T in my XXX-SCT and I guess I like it. Question on temps and gearing: I'm running some boost (BH 120a ESC) and my gearing is 82/21 currently for a FDR of 9.49. After 8 min of driving around on a loose surface (not grass) my temp was 155 deg on the motor as told by the telemetry from my DX2S (so sensor on the outside of the can). This is cooler than I was running in the past with my old motor but I was way over geared and running a ton of boost. So now 2 levels less boost (they go from 1-9 I'm not at 5) and much better gearing with the new motor. Is this gearing still too high? Should I drop another couple of teeth to get that temp a little lower?
Also in general would it be better to run less boost and the same gearing or a larger FDR (drop 2 teeth on the pinion) and the same boost? Is one way generally more driveable than the other? Better for the gear than the other?
Thanks
Also in general would it be better to run less boost and the same gearing or a larger FDR (drop 2 teeth on the pinion) and the same boost? Is one way generally more driveable than the other? Better for the gear than the other?
Thanks
07-24-2012, 10:09 AM
#5120
07-24-2012, 10:19 AM
#5121
HUGE
Yea I got a decent result with the Turnigy 17.5 boosted so I figured I didn't need much more motor which is why I went for the 13.5T I just did another run and it went over 175 deg this time in 6:25 so I'm probably going to both gear it down a touch and lower the boost a level. The only place you need top end at RT281 is on the front straight so I think a bit more in the lower end will help my lap times. I'm a little worried about LCRC though as I heard it is huge so I may need everything this motor's got.
07-24-2012, 08:15 PM
#5122
Grasshopper - I apologize, but I don't know much about that speed control. What I can tell you is that the software that runs the boost program plays a huge part in how much heat is generated and how it makes the motor run. To give you an example we tested an experiment software program on our esc a few months back. It didn't work but for 2-3 second, motor would barely spin - temps would get up 160-170 - on the stand. Fixed the software - long runs, fast and reliable, with correct heat and speed on track. So its a long way of saying - you need to look at the software setting related to the speed control to get more of an answer.
Spider on the other handle - "Truck is a beast to control" - but give me more power!!!!! Slow it down there, chuckie! Smooth and in control wins the race - not crazy hair on fire. Get control of her first, then worry about more power.
Spider on the other handle - "Truck is a beast to control" - but give me more power!!!!! Slow it down there, chuckie! Smooth and in control wins the race - not crazy hair on fire. Get control of her first, then worry about more power.
07-25-2012, 04:11 AM
#5123
Grasshopper - I apologize, but I don't know much about that speed control. What I can tell you is that the software that runs the boost program plays a huge part in how much heat is generated and how it makes the motor run. To give you an example we tested an experiment software program on our esc a few months back. It didn't work but for 2-3 second, motor would barely spin - temps would get up 160-170 - on the stand. Fixed the software - long runs, fast and reliable, with correct heat and speed on track. So its a long way of saying - you need to look at the software setting related to the speed control to get more of an answer.
Spider on the other handle - "Truck is a beast to control" - but give me more power!!!!! Slow it down there, chuckie! Smooth and in control wins the race - not crazy hair on fire. Get control of her first, then worry about more power.
Spider on the other handle - "Truck is a beast to control" - but give me more power!!!!! Slow it down there, chuckie! Smooth and in control wins the race - not crazy hair on fire. Get control of her first, then worry about more power.
j/k
07-25-2012, 11:08 AM
#5124
Hilarious!!! Since you guys are in PA, would like to invite you to come to the TCRC Brawl for it All on August 18. It's in Lavalette, WV. Would love to have you. That invite goes to anyone that would like to show too. Maybe a TM from a certain company could make it if he was in the area..................
07-26-2012, 11:29 AM
#5126
Got to down load the vlink today works pretty good other then after making changes it wouldn't allow you to keep profile #2 to the esc it would revert back to profile 1, the changes i made in profile 2 were done just couldn't save that profile number to esc, i had to use the pro gauge to set it to profile 2 and check if the changes were there i made and they were, i then went back into the vlink to see if i could change to another profile and couldn't change out of now profile 2 that i used the pro gauge to set to, soooo is this a glitch or are we not able to switch between profiles using the vlink and have to use the pro gauge for that.
oppps i see not that silvalis ask that same question sorry, can that be fixed so we can save profiles. Thanks
oppps i see not that silvalis ask that same question sorry, can that be fixed so we can save profiles. Thanks
07-26-2012, 03:01 PM
#5128
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Viper: I got my VTX10R and 17.5 combo today wires are soldered onto it nice! ( I suck at that especially on the ESC side )
Question it says motor "unlimited" on the box does that mean I could run my Tekin 540 sized Pro4 3300 on it if I wanted? I'm running that motor non sensored at the moment but if the VTX10R can run it that would be cool.
Question it says motor "unlimited" on the box does that mean I could run my Tekin 540 sized Pro4 3300 on it if I wanted? I'm running that motor non sensored at the moment but if the VTX10R can run it that would be cool.
Last edited by KTMDirtFace; 07-26-2012 at 03:25 PM.
07-26-2012, 04:01 PM
#5129
21.5 viper motor for sale in this thread. thanks
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...st-21-5-a.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...st-21-5-a.html
07-26-2012, 08:34 PM
#5130
Okay. So after running for a few minutes, like 3, my copperhead is going into thermal. When I hit it with the temp gun, I'm at 110-115. All is good in the drivetrain, no binding, all the connections are soldered good. Batteries are good. Let me throw in the fact that it started this yesterday. Went back to the track today, same thing. Only this time I noticed that it's doing it after landing off of our bigger double.
This is happening in a Losi SCTE, and the truck is not bottoming out harder than it ever has before. I even adjusted my ride height today to see if that would help, and it is still doing it. It cuts out power to the motor, still have steering, and the N light is constant, and the F/R lights are blinking. It stays like that for about 1 minute, then I can run for another 5 minutes. It also did this to me once today when I avoided a car on the back straight, and hit head on into the pipe. Not hard on the head on crash either. Very soft actually, and it went into thermal cutoff again.
Anyone know what could be the problem here?
This is happening in a Losi SCTE, and the truck is not bottoming out harder than it ever has before. I even adjusted my ride height today to see if that would help, and it is still doing it. It cuts out power to the motor, still have steering, and the N light is constant, and the F/R lights are blinking. It stays like that for about 1 minute, then I can run for another 5 minutes. It also did this to me once today when I avoided a car on the back straight, and hit head on into the pipe. Not hard on the head on crash either. Very soft actually, and it went into thermal cutoff again.
Anyone know what could be the problem here?