+1 on the tech support! Ive had nothing, but gliches with the VTX10 since I bought it. And the only place I can get a hold of anyone is on here. Plus there is NO local dealers that can help. This is major reasons I left Castle! Tekin's service has been amazing!!!!!!!!! IDK what to do

Ok, so I tried a sensor wire out of my spare parts and after about five minutes it was cutting out on me. ESC and motor was not hot. Cutoffs are set at 200 on motor and 220 on ESC. Now, I'm at a loss. This is a brand new VTX10R. I have zero races on this system as of yet. Still trying oto work out the bugs. This is a huge bug that needs fixin. Help, thanks

Spider- check your PM, give me the info, we'll talk. Something is being missed there. That is a strange result of the calibration.

jrj- are you seeing the lights blink on the switch after it 'shuts off'. If your motor cut off is at 200*, it's too low especially for a 4wd car. Remember that temperature reading is being done by the speed control off of the rotor on the motor. Which can 50 to 70 degrees hotter than the outside temp you measure with a temp gun. When I ran my 7.5 in a B44.1 I set the motor cut off at 240, esc at 220. Freq, 9600, power 85, punch 65. I think gearing was 84-20 or 21. And I was holding on for dear life.

84 GT - the VTX system is only sensored. Sorry about the calls, guess the home office was busy yesterday -- some new stuff getting ready to ship:sneaky::sneaky::D

threw in the 13.5 setup geared 30 75 38 degrees of timing no boost

was throwing down mod times consistently..I think I got my setup pretty dialed right now.:)

Car: Asso SC10FT
Motor: Viper 8.5
ESC: Hobbywing 120a V3

I'm having a temp problem. Have run my new Viper 8.5 in my car and temps were quite high. Geared 19/87.

The speed was ok and I could go full throttle on couple of places om the track.
Do you think that the temp problem is caused by wrong gearing or ESC settings? The car is almost new, wrenching all the time so bearings etc is in good condition.

ESC settings (important ones):
Punch 40%
Throttle: Linear
Drag brake: 0
Timing: 0
Turbo timing: 10 degrees
Turbo activated: Full throttle
Turbo throttle delay: Instant

As you can see I'm not pushing the motor with any ESC settings. Timing 0 except when going full throttle and then timing is only 10 degrees.

Please help me out.
*ESC was 65 degrees Celcius after 10min, motor was hot.

I know there is a specific 1cell vtx esc. But I just picked up a vtx10 8.5 combo to run in mod 2wheel buggy. And I was curious if it could be run on one cell with the use of a receiver pack.

aland- how hits was the motor? Last time I ran 8.5 in my truck I ran a similar gear with no boost (obviously Viper speed control). I ran Hobbywing years ago, didn't run boost often but I rember it generatedore heat with motor and esc.

jsinclair- the 10/10R series are designed to run on 2s (3s with higher turn motors - geared correctly).

Well I ordered a VST13.5t today...so I guess I'm the new guy in the family (or will be next week when it arrives).

Anyone have a suggested gearing start point for a Losi XXX-SCT? And I suppose with or without boost.

Thanks for your reply.

Well I didn't have a temp gun this time but I could keep my finger on the motor for about 2 seconds, no more. I got the temp from the ESC by reading the logger.
The only timing I'm using is the "turbo timing" and that's only activated while keeping full throttle. And only 10 degrees.

Any other ideas?

I believe I'm running the stock spur (88t if I remember correctly) and 23t pinion. If you run the 13.5t boost profile you will be blown away at how fast it is. I'm most likely going to gear down and just use the boost on the straight.

See young Grasshopper - look and learn. :blush:;):smile:

aland- try running without the boost and see how it runs. I really can't speak for settings on the speed control I don't know how the software has changed in the three years since I used it. I guess it depends on how big your track is, most of drivers don't use boost with 8.5 motors.

I took the timing off my 8.5 in my blitz and i run about 140 to 150 range. Geared 23/88. Great speeds and well fast enough to clear the big table top at my local track. WIth timing i was 165 range never over 175 though.

Did you leave a message?

65 Deg C = 149 Deg F, a pretty safe temp for a 8.5 Mod motor in a short course truck after 10 minutes.

Long runs are the biggest killler for motors. I try to limit myself to practice only as long as the longest race I will run (usually that is 6 or 8 minutes)

I would do all you could to keep temps under 150, especially running long runs.

Bascially, you can add 30-40 degrees to the temp you measure on the outside of a motor and you will have the temp of the internals. If you are running 175 on the outside, it is 205-220 internally. You can start having problems when temps get not to much hotter than that.

Constant heat cycles running the motors over 160-170 degrees (externally) can weaken the magnet on the rotor and even cause the magnet to come apart after enough heat cycles.

Unfortunately, all of that copper wire and stator laminations make very good insulation, so putting a fan on a motor doesn't do much to lower the internal temps.